Reverend

One word. DISTRIBUTOR. We tried with 2 different dizzies to my friends -73 and starting with the first one sounds EXACTLY like that. I even have video of it, that i will upload if necessary.

My friend has -73 240z with auto transmission, and im asking this on behalf of him as he dont speak english. It changes gears really roughly, i mean the whole car goes like BUMP. I already suggested that he changes oils in it but is there any other adjustments you can make to it externally to perhaps smoothen it up?

Yeah its that part nr 65 that is broken, a pain in the arse to change.. would be easier just to swap the whole tranny...

I took my Z to a shop and they confirmed that the fault is in transmission. Is that part somehow replaceable? Sucks not to see your current speed...

It has both points on place and attached to coil. Factory spec is 17 degrees for non emission engine. Well no matter now, it runs and i did a 30 mile test drive. Tranny (auto) is in a need of attention, it changes gear very roughly.

We tried with single point distributor. It gave spark but just did not start, not even tried. Then we decieded "what the heck" and try with the dual points distributor. Starts right up, like a nanosecond after you turn the key and revs nicely. I dont know how this is possible as you stated it wont start and timing is impossible to find. We did excatly that, timing is now @ around 17 degrees and idles very smoothly..

Your start/restart issues sound like a coil problem to me. Maybe it is overheating?

Yeah, i guess i'll have to try even bigger jets. Maybe 60F9?

Good topic, this clears out the problem i had years ago Almost burned the whole car.

I bet it does. I switched to bigger idle jets (55F9) but i STILL have to dial mixture open for 1.5 turns, just like with the smaller jets (50F9). But i have noticed some difference, idle is a tad smoother (even with the inlet leak). One strange thing was that i drove on the freeway about 20 miles, after coasting to normal speed, i could hear faint "pop" from the exhaust occasionally, like it was burning excess fuel there. SO basically i have mixture on the verge of being too lean, but it still pops in the exhaust`??

I have that airtex pump, works great, except i have thriples.

We removed all the smog and installed 260z single point distributor. We have to block the weird pipe going to exhaust manifold from balance tube, it snapped just from the root and we cannot get it out...

My friend just wants to get this Z running quickly. He also has stock 260z distributor, would that work?

So can we take off the second set of points and drive like that? I've started to dismantle all that smog crap, 2 green wires from the distributor goes into it. My friend says the car occasionally just stops and wont start till you wait a moment and try again. Im afraid we do something irreversible if we deciede to hustle with the dizzy. He wants to have the car ready to drive as soon as possible... :/

Just found out that i have asked these questions earlier too. We decieded to postpone the project till now. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50267-removing-smog-need-assistance/?hl=smog

I've located a small inlet manifold leak from cylinder Nr5. If i spray starter fluid at it, i can hear idle rising for a second. There is no visible hole or crack or anything. This could be the problem after all?

You tell me How about the dual points distributor, can it be run correctly without the smog equipment? I've heard its only on automatic transmission models

My friend decieded he wont need the hidious smog thingy in his car and asked for my help. He has "euro" balance tube and wants to put it on place. It sure does look much better without, i used to have "euro" tube when i had SU's. SO, the difference is huge, compared to -72 smog equipment (plus this is automatic). Tons of hoses and stuff. Are those two water pipes necessarry, can we plug them? We live in northern Finland so temperature wont be an issue here... Basically, can we just strip all the stuff out?

There is no balance tube in my Lynx manifold and idle is lazy anyway.

Wow that looks sweet, and it comes with all the hardware as well? Damnation... i think i have to get one.

set of 3 40 SK/OER racing carbs, yes i have Gunson Carbalancer wich i used to syncronize. If they were out of sync at idle, should they be above that as well? Because they are not, thats the weird thing. Ive spent crapload of carbcleaner, of course i have not injected that among the fuel.

I swapped the carbs, synced them and now the situation is this: Driving above 1200-1500 rpms is okay, no extra vibrations, accelerates well, some occasional pops from the carb (maybe 1 or 2 in 5 mile trip) idle below 1200 is UTTER CRAP, i feel like im in the wheel of some super cammed V8 that shakes all over but as soon as i raise rpms, it runs steadier.. Could it be manifold leak or something? I tried with and without the booster, no noticeable difference to me. Except in braking.. heh. Im afraid the engine mounts will suffer if i let it idle, with SU's the idle was smooth as baby butt.

My electrician friend said "condensers attached to coil are merely for removing any electrical disturbance to the tachometer"

Shouldnt the bad booster also affect braking? Cause brakes work just fine.

Hmm. I just purchased generic coil and it also has 3 ohm resistance and spark is weak. Did also bypass the ballast, did you manage to get your tachometer working somehow?