Reverend

With slight modification to the original choke cable system, it can be used on that i suppose. Where does your breather/overflow tube go from there?

Thats the way i hauled my non-running Z. It even had seized rear brakes and we still managed to push it all the way up to trailer. For 400 miles i saw this beauty staring at me from rearview mirror.

Very nice oem exhaust!

Thanks! I have most of the manual pages, there's at least one i don't have. One helping soul sent those to me via czcc Facebook page. What kind of linkage you use granny and whered'ya got that choke linkage? I heard that Weber linkage is not direct bolt on

I think i'll have to re-install my GTA 4 just to try that out

I did complete valve adjustment. Before that it started very badly. Now it starts right up, even in cold days! Running SU's with only mechanical pump.

Could you tell me what that extra inlet/outlet tube is for? You (granny) have put threaded hoses to it. Is it fuel return or has it something to do with that cold start circuit?

Decent floor panels cost around 300+ dollars. If you really want that car you'll need to do a lot of work. But restoring Z's is fun so...

I wonder is there any guides or something downloadable (or for sale) anywhere... :/

I'd like to know a little more about these carburators. Where to get throats (or chokes?) and auxiliary venturis.

This is a good thread, i hope someone makes thread about DIY linkage... cause i need to do one. *looks at empty wallet*

I think it looks hidious and outdated. But thats just me

I just purchased a fairly cheap set of SK Racing (not oer) carbs with 62mm horns. They look good and are all intact. My first idea was to put them to my Z but i need money now more than ever...I wonder what these are worth? Not many around and Made In Japan. That should say something about the quality.

Yea well i guess it kinda is. We have fever people in whole country than LA downtown. Im planning to do it basically on zero budget (exhaust parts are cheap, 5-15 bucks each) If i make the pipe under the car and tighten it well enough with these: it should last the 100 yard transportation to the neighbour so he can make tack welds...right?

I recently purchased 3-2 header from MSA outlet store for cheap. Now im about to build a exhaust pipe, cause i cannot afford to buy pre producted items and exhaust shops are dayum expensive around here. SO after i take the old pipe out, should i first try to build the pipe outside the car, imitating old pipe or just put the pieces one by one under the car? I cannot weld it under the car as i have to drag that pipe to my neighbour, who has the equipment and skills, but i can use these "tensioners" to keep the pipe in one piece. Suggestions and hints are taken.

I wonder does anyone have extra set for sale...

ZOMBIE THREAD REVIVAL TIME! I just saw a B310 with 4 Keihin CV carburators. Owner said that those are best and most trouble free carbs he ever have had. I was wondering where i could get six of them for cheap....?

We powerbleeded it with my friends bleeder, it seems he has better equipment as clutch has been working since. Well, time for another problem then. Life would be too easy if all went well. Im losing transmission fluid, there is traces of it where driveshaft is. I think its called rear output seal ? I wonder how hard is it to change with tranny on car, driveshaft is easy to remove but how about that seal...?

Ordered 240z slave cylinder WITH ADJUSTABLE ROD. It came without one. Not gonna send it back, too expensive to do it... :/

Hearing triples roar... priceless.

I think that "overheating" gauge is one of the Z features. I have it too

Nice HDR's and nice Z! Planning to take hdr pics myself, they are just tricky to do.

Got rid of all the previous problems. Now i have new one to solve I decieded to continue this old thread, so i wont flood the forums with my nonsense. 2 days ago in traffic lights, i smelled a strong fuel smell and engine started to idle rough, luckily i was almost at my destination and parked car in a minute. Rear fuel bowl was flooding over! Very weird thing indeed as i have driven about 300 miles with somewhat properly tuned (colortune) carbs. I adjusted the float but effect was that last 3 cylinders only fire up when rpms go over 2.5 K. Plugs were dry as desert. We opened up both float bowls and noticed that in rear one, that little jet is lower than in front carb. I have spare set of carbs so i took one jet out of it, except it is internally different than the other. Both have numbers 1-7 but internals are a bit different. Despite that i put the "new" jet on place and it started as usual, it runs much better now but i cannot get it to idle below 1000 rpms. It stutters and runs on 3 or less cylinders. over that rpm range, it runs great. So i guess i'll redo the balancing and idle settings but could there be something other causing this too?

Congrats on reviving zombie thread!