Reverend

Well... power bleeding did not help with new cylinder but with the old one it works. Used about quart of brake fluid (per cylinder).. Weird thing is, that should you see a steady flow of brake fluid instead of bubbly.. with normal method (hose in a jar with fluid in it) i dont get many bubbles but power bleeder has them bubbles. It might be sucking air around the bleed nipple, but i dont feel any suction (which does not mean there aint any) Anyway, im banging my head against the wall. Seller of the MC says there is nothing wrong with the new cylinder, but im outta ideas

Slave bleeder valve is okay, one at the end of hydraulic line aint (master side). Guess i'll try that power bleeder first, 19 bucks from nearby autoparts store.

So basically i can still "bench bleed" it, just have to remove the hydraulics line. "everloving crap" Haha, i hate that crap, even smallest drop can destroy (and have already done that) my precious paint. I wonder should i somehow replace the master cylinder "nipple" or what ever it is called, PO has done some havoc to the hex part of that and it has to be opened with pliers. Threads are okay, only the hex part is rounded up. I wonder if any power tools would help, pneumatic bleeder etc?

Pumped pedal a few times with bleed nipple closed to gather some pressure, then opened bleed (while clutch still pressed) I have special bleeder tool attached to slave cylinder, but i still have my wife helping me out so i can see does the slave move or not. Of course i bleed the system everytime i change something, im not that dork

Swapped the old one back... worked for sometime, but i was too afraid to be left on road with broken cylinder so i put the new one back. No go. Why the heck the old one gives some pressure and new one aint giving nothing??? Its driving me crazy.

That looks like a mean machine!

Zombie thread revival time! I had working speedo before i took engine and tranny off. Put them back and BAM, speedo aint working. Sometimes it might jump up and down for a few seconds but after that... nothing. Bad cable or gauge?

I dismantled the master and put it back together. It worked fine for 250 miles, then it started to act like that again. I also have NEW (5/8) spare master cylinder, with shorter pushrod (about 1 inch) so i replaced the pushrods and tried that. It did not even give pressure..(??!!). Master cylinder pushrod was at max so it should have been enough. Switched back to old one and it works, but as said above, is sloppy again. I wonder what i did wrong with that new master cyl. Only difference is that its not Nabco and it has bigger reservoir for brake fluid (and shorter pushrod). Its hard for me to believe that 2 year old rebuilt oem part fails but i guess weirder **** has happened in Z world.

Master cylinder is almost new (2 years old.) And its not soft at all! Thats whats bugging me.

I have brand new exedy clutch and 77 5 speed. Here are symptoms: -When cold and put to reverse, it makes loud whining sound for few seconds, then it stops. Happens sometimes when put to 1:st gear too. -I have bleeded clutch twice and adjusted slave cylinder rod several times to find proper "release" for clutch, for some reason i have to pump twice when cold to be able to engage gears. After that i can drive with smooth shifting for at least 20 mins. -After that shifting becomes gradually more harder, until i can barely shift gears. I got stuck in the middle of intersection (2 separate times) cause i could not switch to 1:st gear, i sweared and pumped clutch for like 10 times, after that it worked again. Clutch was feeling the same all the time, no sloppyness. What can cause these symptoms? Even i have properly (or at least in my standards) bleeded the clutch, can it still have air somewhere or is there something wrong in the clutch itself? I really need to know this soon.

Nice! I have friend who has maxima head in his 260z, works like a charm!

I think its outrageous that you have so clean and nice engine bay!

Have you consulted Ted? At least he looks like he has something to do with this problem. Maybe you have not feed him well enough? Cats can be vicious when hungry

:/ All those nice Z's... waiting for someone to fix them up.

Time to drain the tank and wash it. At least thats what i would do.

HAH @ CDS Award. . I'd love to see how that looks like, some evil-eyed little squirrel sitting over a burger, coated in gold over mahogany wooden box. I wish you all the best with this quest. Im considering CDS awards to anyone who fixes my Z as well.

Thats nice, what would be even nicer: Tons of photos!

We'll found out that next week as i get the head back. Before that i must make proper sacrifices to Z-gods in order to avoid any misfortune in future.

Yessir i do! I just tought you had forgotten Got to keep me channels open. Should we continue this via PM or here?

I dropped my diffy with half shafts on it, car was on jack stand. Those half shaft bolts were super duper tight on differential end so i had to do it that way. I removed driver side control arm and dropped it, while laying under it. Putting new diffy back is not that PITA if you have extra hands to operate your jack. I was lying under car while my wife operated jack and lifted it up as requested. Took about 10 mins to get it fitted. I dont see any reason why you should drop mustache bar, unless you are about to change that too.

Still looking for extra 18 series weber if anyone has one for sale (or giveaway )

Yea, i guess it does increase structural integrity around rear area in situations like that. If you have had cooler there, you probably would have been covered with beer.

Might i ask where it went?

Reason for hidious fumes in my car: ANTENNA DRAIN HOLE. Direct acces straight to cabin. I closed it with plastic tube and soda can cap. No fumes. Located just above muffler.

They just checked the straightness. Well its back on the shop for valve job, hope they do not find anything scary out there.