Reverend

I had similar issues and it was the ballast resistor, cheap to replace

This is the best thread!

Cygnus: What kind or brand paint did you used? Brushed or ?

Lucky indeed...8.5$ dollar per gallon here...

Windshield glass is a good fit but its PITA job trying to put the chrome molding back on. At first my door strips were very tight too, but after slamming them for 1,5 years, they work fine

Double post, please delete

I think main preparation is to prepare your Z, when properly maintained, you wont need any of these what we have suggested. I'll usually spent hours doing a complete search for any faulty parts before big trip and that has paid off.

I take my small toolbox with me, it also looks good on the rear compartment. http://www.powerplustools.fi/image.php?image=_images%2Fthumbs%2FPPT1305.jpg

Correction to my second post: chinese, not chink. Did not mean to offense anyone. Im just looking a Z user opinion (who has these carbs, if there is such a person), i might made my mind but i can always ask. It seems i will be the first one to try these

Well i do not base my argument on nothing, several automotive people who work on racing engines have told me that these chink-webers are worth every penny.. BUT they have only knowledge of updraft webers, used on VW engines. Thats why i asked if anyone has experience on sidedrafts. :disappoin

I have bought from MSA and Vintagerubber, latter is definetly 100% better quality. Prices might be bit high but they are worth every penny.

Local (finnish) importer has introduced this new chinese made Weber clone, it supposed to be as good as the original and all the jets etc can be swapped from Weber. At first they made carbs mainly for volkswagen but they have started to make sidedrafts also. Anyone got any experience with these?

Nice to see that you succeeded in engine area, im doing the excact same thing to my Z so im more than happy to see more pictures!

I finally got it started, im only using blaster (as you suggested) on surface rust and tight spots. I have very small compressor (24liter) so it does not last long but it gets the job done. grit 200 seems to be the best option for me, does not leave too big marks and gets the dirt. My only worries are the fuel/hydraulic lines. They bend so easily. At first i feared doing body work, but now i actually enjoy doing it

Look for the keys Your only option is to change the ignition switch cylinder. Those should be easily available, i ordered a spare one for 20 bucks (from China) but i think you guys have much bigger selection there than we here. Rockauto has them for like 15 bucks.

Here's my engine removal in high speed aka. timelapse video https://vimeo.com/50903323

Thanks Andrew! Ben: how did you removed the electrical harness holders? those flexible ones..?

Too bad the Swedes got fewer Z's than we did originally, or so i've been told

Is there any way to rebuild the retractors? (-72) mine are busted but i dont like the MSA belts i currently have.. :/

He's a good man. I wish there was more of those kind of shops everywhere.

Hope to see you in person someday, there has been many Norwegian visitors in our annual Japanese Auto Extravaganza. www.finnjae.net

Here is a picture of OEM 5 speed shifter knob from european 240Z. Hope this helps.

Dont know about the nr3 but i suppose 1 and 2 are drain plugs for floorboards (driver and passenger floor) and possibly for rear deck area too.

Left=old, right=new. Despite the fact that left one looks much bigger, there is only less than 2mm difference in "fingers". So i suppose i'll go with the bigger collar.

Even you think you had a bad luck painting, i think you did a good job. Reading this kinda thing gives me more self confidence, that i can do it. I would be interested in hearing more about how you prepared the engine area and about priming. Did you have both master cylinders, fuel lines and hydraulic lines on engine while you painted? CheerZ