Reverend

Dauym cam sprocket, i better loosen it a bit before setting it to TDC... After turning the cam few times i found out the TDC, white chain in 2o'clock and first nick on the arrow. But i lost it when i started to loosen the cam sprocket . Amazing is that i havent break a single bolt so far and exhaust and intake manifolds were super easy to remove.

My timing scale differs from yours. There is 5 little nicks on the wheel and only one "arrow". In wich position should the wheel/chain be? Im totally newbie in timing things. Also where this white piece of chain should be when in TDC?

How can i set the TDC properly?

Well the ignition switch is a year old. BUT it is el cheapo model from thailand. Exactly the same kind like the original, just ten times more cheaper. Could it be caused by something other than ignition switch?

I bought a new starter month ago but it still doesnt start every time.. Weird. All the battery cables should be clean and well connected.

Luckily i got away with little effort, it was only matter of adjustment. Pushrod was not going enough, now there is hardly any free play on clutch pedal. ThankZ for help guys!

Too bad that i cant check that disc, closest hill is about 150 miles away I'll do that adjustment and see if it helps

It wasnt like that last year, it seems to go worse. This morning when i put gear on (clutch engaged), car moves more than yesterday. Is the master cyl locking nut located in the bottom of it? I do have remanufactured original part so it should be right size (?) I understand this is a master/slave problem so why should i replace the clutch?

Well dayum, both master and slave cylinders are brand new...

Problem is that when car is stopped and engine running, i have to violently push the shifter if i want to move. When driving, it shifts quite ok. For example if i want to reverse, i have to turn the car off that i can change gears. I have bleeded clutch but it seems sloppy, clutch engages about 2 inches from the floor. Also i noticed that when i start with gear on (for example reverse) and clutch engaged, car moves a little. Do i have clutch related problem or is my gearbox going bad?

Edit: It is not the steering wheel but the clutch pedal that makes the sound. Weird. I'll lube it and see if it helps.

I had the same kind of problem and it went away after thorough bleeding. Use search and you'll find tons of info about that.

My Z has annoying habit of squeaking. Firstly i tought that the sound comes from pedals but soon i realised it came from the steering wheel. It does not squeak when turned BUT when driving over small bumps etc. I tested it and it makes the sound only when lifting it up or pushing the wheel down. It's very loud noise and i need to get rid of it. I cant locate the excact place where it comes, maybe you guys can help? :stupid:

Crap, now its leaking from the front.

If i remember correctly, there is about 50 or so imported S30 series in here. Mostly 260Zs and 280Zs. Of course you all know that 260Z was NOT a 1-year only. Here is rear view of another FINZ (Previous owner is also member here)

Here is image of one originally imported Z from FI.

In Finland at least. I do have picture of them but not in this computer, i can upload it later. Also we miss the rear marker lights.

I have sealed and soundproofed it. How the inner rear seal suppose to be, lip outside hatch (inside car) or lip betveen hatch and car itself? Btw your avatar gets spookier every day

Yes, but driving one hour make my head hurt, EVEN i have all new weatherstrips all over the car.

Gaskets are on the mail, hope HG change solves the smelly garage problem. There is this discusting smell every time i drive warmed up Z in to garage, i bet it's the leaking coolant. For some reason, also the exhaust fumes are back.. they were gone for good while but now..

Well dayum.. I retighten all the bolts and when removed bolt number 11 (wich is the one over starter) it started to drip water trough seal. Well at least its confirmed where it leaks..

Crap. My socket was wrong, it was too short so i cant take out all the bolts. Got to wait till monday so i can get a new one.

Thanks Blue, awesome tips as always! Will do those tests right away. Luckily oil is "clean" as is coolant. Engine is buffing white when NOT at operating temperature but after that no smoke so that is good also. About that crancking, i need to disconnect the fuel pump right?

I was taking mail to post office and one small kid came to me and asked me "is it good enough?" I wanted to say something clever but i only said "yes"

In other forum one dude suggested that i remove every screw one at the time, clean and oil them and then retorque. Any comments on that?