Reverend

Hiya I've been working with my Z for a year now and finally i got to drive it a little. Now i want to ask you oh wizard of oZ, that how (or is there any way) to recognise bad alternators? Mine is okay now but i dont want it to break down in the middle of traffic lights or in highway. I have experienced the agony when alternator breaks, i was driving home with our daily driver Volvo 945 and i was wondering why the dash lights were so weak and i could barely see lights front of the car. After few kilometers car stalled and we needed a towtruck. I COULD order a brand new(NOS) alternator but i dont do that if not necessary. Current alt. seems to be original..

Hiya! I've changed the pump and there had been issues after that too.In first startup after pump change it overheated, possibly because there was huge amount of air in the system. I could see it bubbling from radiator and after the thermostat opened all the water in the top radiator just disappeared in to the depths of engine. Well, i added more water/glykol and go for a spin. It DIDNT overheat. I was happy. Now next morning i go for another spin and it DID overheat AGAIN!! Well i opened the hood and scratched my head but all seemed fine. I started the car and heat stayed normal, actually it has stayed ever since. I drove about 2 hours straight and heat stayed normal. Hmmm... What might be the reason for that..? Well i found other "minor" thing while cursing with the overheat. Radiator is LEAKING! Leak is small and you gotta drive a lot (hours) to use all the fluid in the radiator. Its leaking in front of the radiator, just in the weld between upper tank and radiator core. Can this small leak cause overheating? It's on my top priority to repair it before doing anything else.

I recently got rid of the overheat problem by changing alternator belt and thermostat. Now its back and worse than before. Car warms up normally but soon heat starts to rise and nears red. I switched it off and i could hear "gulp gulp gulp gulp" kinda sound from the engine/radiator and there was white smoke coming from carbs. Also i noticed that there was water dripping from water pump area. Could this be water pump related problem? I found it hard to believe but my head is empty and i cant figure out anything else..:stupid:

Problem solved. Just needed to bleed with TIME, a lots of it.

Thanks for the hints. We adjusted wheel cylinders yesterday and now the brakes work fine. Now i gotta bleed'em again as yesterday i did it on wrong order starting from the passenger rear first. When braking, the pedal goes all the way to the bottom but if you pump it few times you'll get pressure and the car stops.. Maybe there is still air in the system?

Hiya. Yesterday i replaced old wheel cylinders and shoes. When drum on place i can hear slight dragging against it when rolling it. Cylinder adjusters are in min. position. Can it be that the drums are not round or is it common that new shoes drag for a while?

If you wait long enough, he'll sell it under 10K. What a crazy price for a crazy car.

What might you mean by that? :ogre: Rear wheel cylinders were rusted and i couldn't get them open with torch. New cylinders are on the way. Hope that solves the problem

Little update. I needed to make this DIY patent in order to move the car to it's new home. I've removed everything except that injector tubes and air pump (its not connected anymore). Car starts okay and runs better than before. Carbs are running VERY lean atm but it's somewhat drivable. BUT now it leaks exhaust or something from the engine, im quite sure that my patent doesn't leak. If car is runned inside, you have to wear gasmask. Its that bad. I didnt have this problem before removing smog.

This is almost the same subject. Any hints for removing air injection tubes from intake manifold? Im getting rid of the smog equipment and only thing between happines and total frustration is that darn tube. I've tried CRC Rost Flash (instant freeze anti-rust removal spray) and i've tried torching them but they just wont move..

Well there is plenty of options. You can ask if anyone has OEM retractor or used one. BUT dont order MSA belts as i did. They suck. If you have seatbelt warning, you'll lose that when changing to MSA. I didn't realize that when i ordered them. But they are bit safer than the originals if i got to say something good about them. IF you deciede to order MSA belts, you dont need to drill any holes.

Recently i've been focusing thousand other things and brakes wasn't one of them. But i do tried to remove the drums and it was impossible (with my tools and expertise). I did manage to free shoes by pressing with screwdriver from the hole in drum. Wheels do spin a little better now but brake pedal is still stiff as h***. Could it be brake booster/master vac that is busted? How can you tell that? More the less how can you repair if it's busted. Lot of questions, i know and yes i have FSM but i just like to hear this from real Z-experts. Edit: brakes feel normal when bleed nipple open, that overrules the master vac, at least i think so.

Might as well be I started to dismantle all smog equipment after consulting few "old skool" mechanics. Im quite sure it have some positive effect on engine behaviour even it might not solve the actual problem. After that i'll check timing.Now im stuck in this situation: i was trying to remove the air injector tubes along the manifold but they are rusted in place.. Im quite sure theyll snap broken if i try to use too much power.

Next thing i do is set timing right. How..? I have no idea. I have the chance to do it by myself or take it to expensive mechanic. I'd rather do it myself. So im asking for you mighty Z-wizards to explain how to properly set the correct timing. Also does it effect on timing if you remove all smog equipment? I havent yet done that but i just might do that someday.

The video could be better if the car is Z

Keep us updated on your quest of defeating engine lag! Does Rock Auto have vacuum advance for 72?

Throttle plate shafts seemed okay. Rear carb was behaving strange sometimes, it stayed about 5mm higher than front carb after reving..needle was straight when i last checked it. I've been discussing this same thing in other threads also and i tried to move the vacuum advance as suggested by sucking in the pipe that goes to dizzy. It didnt move a bit. So i'll start by renewing that So where i can get new vacuum advance? I searched BD's and Motorsport auto but i didn't find them..

I have similar problem! I havent tested the compression but tried to suck that pipe and also nothing moved.

Anyone?

See this video http://s578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/?action=view&current=Video0012.mp4 It explains the symptom better than 1000 words. Sorry for the bad quality (and the video is sideways) but i think you'll hear what i mean. It stalls when throttle engaged. In the end of the video it backfires when i tried to accelerate it rapidly but the bang was so big that it muted the microphone for few seconds Edit: How much gas there usually is on the fuel filter? In mine there is about half inch. Before that video i needed to manually operate fuel pump before getting it started.

Fuel filter is brand new. Not the original style though. One of my colleagues suggested that it could be vacuum advance..?

Alrighty, i'll order the flowmeter then. Eventually i need it someday so why not order it now.

So adjusting the mixture is also impossible without flowmeter?

Hi I recently made a post about my 240z carb behaviour in Engine section http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38755 Now i'd like to know how to tune this carbs without flowmeter. After reading all the posts made by this community i think it's running too lean. What's the most safest way to make it run richer without messing up carbs more? Also i'd like to know the reason why it occasionally puffs out white smoke from carbs after car is shut down.

Well i checked that there is 23mm from fuel surface to float top. Then i adjusted the float itself. Rear is about 12mm and front is about 15mm. I also sprayed carb cleaner to carbs while running and idle rise up a little and then it returned back to normal. Driving it after adjustment was strange as i said before. I could rev the living h**l out of it while idling on parking lot but when driving it was not possible. Carbs popped and banged few times also while driving. is it now getting too much fuel?