Reverend

I've adjusted the floats (front carb was totally wrong) and now its gets gasoline much better. Also i've check the pistons etc. Now when driving it wants to go ahead and rpms rise but it just wont go. For example: I was driving 20mph 2gear and tried to accelerate rapidly. Rpms rise to 3k but engine seems to stall..rpms didn't drop but it felt like accelerating and pushing brake at the same time. Is it running too lean or something?

Hi Dave Well atm i got no funds to do that..is there any other methods than total rebuild? Yesterday i tried to adjust floats but it idled even rougher than before..

Ok i dont know is this a carb problem or what but feel free to move it in right section. It doesn't matter is it cold or warm weather but my 72 240z is hard to start. By hard i mean it takes time from 2-5 minutes and after it starts it barely stays alive until engine starts to warm up. And yes i use choke. Starter is sounds to be ok but is this problem fuel or ignition related? Also when engine is warmed properly it still has some issues with throttle. I drove few days ago around the block and when i give a little push it stalled but when i hit pedal to the metal it works like it should. Also sometimes while clutch engaged the rpms are quite high. for example if i drive 30mph 1500rpm and i change to 3rd gear rpms rise to 2000 while clutch engaged. This doesn't happen all the time but sometimes. Thank you already.

Ok i gotta double check my seats then.

Well yes, nearly 2meters (dont know how much in feets) Maybe there's something wrong with my seats then..?

Ok, well here is the pic of current situation. Im quite tall and getting seat full back is important, but with this i cant. If i lean "normally" on seat, it twists the retractor and it wont retract..:mad:

I've installed master cyl repair set (replaces all the rubbers) but i couldnt open the check valves as they were so stuck that i'd have to break the cylinder to get them opened. Pedal is not that stiff (maybe 20% less) but it still doesn't feel right. We bleeded thoroughly but the rear brakes seem to be inoperable...

I recently purchased MSA seatbelts and now that i installed them i cant pull seat full back. Retractor is on the way. Also it barely retracts anything, that's not safe. I also got MSA carpets and those little carpets behind the seats wont fit in to place if the retractors are installed... I feel quite frustrated after waiting 4 weeks of this package to arrive and then i get this. Suggestions?

Or Finland

And thanks for that Arne! There aint much Z's (none) in our scrapyards where to look. There's lot of other Datsuns like 100A (most popular one in 70's), 120A, 120Y, 150Y etc etc but no Z's.

I removed the master cyl. 1. It was hard or even impossible to push pedal when on place but after removing it moved normally and squirted fluid. Is it possible that the master cyl is somehow broken or what is jamming it? edit. It only squirts fluid from front brake cylinder. Only drops falling from rear side. Interiors and rubbers were in good condition.

Strange, most Z parts cost Gabillion here in Finland but i asked those same parts yesterday and i think it was something like 35$...

Well there was fluid on the rear..so the problem must be either on master vac or master cylinder?

Alrighty. I'll do that asap. I just gotta replace the driver side bleed nipple because last time we bleeded, my buddy got it broken. It's not leaking anything, it just snapped from the middle.

Alright, where is this brake pressure differential switch located? And by gravity bleed you mean no pushing pedals while bleed nipple(s) is open? Still gotta figure out that mystery part. Thanks so far!

I couldn't get it off without doing any damage so i let the valve alone for a while..It was stuck in the hard lines. Is this part somehow related to my braking problems? In other thread there were some discussion about this part. I think it belongs inside master vac..? (dont mind about that broken steering wheel cap)

New ignition switch on place and working! I hammered the old screws off with flathead screwdriver, luckily they were not tight. In new one, "anti-theft" screws have 5.5mm bolt heads wich can be snapped off easily. I wont snap them in case i need to remove that switch again. Nice to have reliable switch

Congrats! I brought mine from California about year ago. Car was not started in 5 years and weather is a lot chiller here in Scandinavia. I wanked fuel pump manually few times so that i could see the fuel coming. After that: battery on, turn key, cracnk few times and VOILA!! Crazy little cars! These engines are made to last for ever. I can imagine the look in your face when you first hear the rumble of Z.

Alright, so not important. The buzzer is not working so it wont do any difference. Thanks! No i gotta find some tool to remove those "anti-theft" screws.

Am i in trouble? I bought new ignition switch and it has some difference between original. What are those 2 wires?

Nice lamps, i got the same (suprise, i live in europe) How's the monster Z project going?

Possibly, i'll check the proportioning valve tommorrow. hope the reason lies there.

Yea it seems so, i just ordered a new ignition switch as the old one is so worn out that i can pull key off while driving. That's why i need to remove it.

Missing very small part indeed. I was dismantling my combination and flasher switch for cleaning. Part on the pic has a tiny ball or marble inside it...and i lost it. I dont know the diameter or material of that little ball, but i do know that it is important, without it the flasher wont work.. Edit: Also i need help with the ignition switch. It's attached to steering wheel with 4 screws and 2 of them look very strange and cant be removed... Help?

Ok i recently bleed the brakes from my 72 and that made front brakes work. Yesterday i lifted car up and hit the brakes while rear wheels were spinning. No effect. So could this be problem in the pressure regulator in brake lines? My buddy was bleeding the rear and i think there were no brake fluid coming from bleed nipple, he's even more newbie than i so.. Is it possible that the brake pedal stiffnes is caused by the same problem? It barely moves when i press it with full power, before bleed it was movable (well the brakes didn't work then at all) As i said before, despite that brake pedal is almost impossible to move, front brakes work fine. Thanks already.