Reverend

Hey i have that part on the left! That's one of "mysterious" parts that came with the car. What is the function of that and where it belongs? I have to know because i have problems with brakes, wich i'll explain in different thread.

All my locks are so worn out that you could open them basically with anything. Also i can remove key while driving. But i cant register the car like that, its considered as safety hazard by the register office. My first Datsun (cherry) had so worned locks that i could open them with ice cream stick! Secon D doors could be opened with guitar case key.

I recently installed new weatherstrips y see meefor doors. Firstly it was hard to close but now it closes fine. BUT i did not have door panels on place. Yesterday i tried with door panel on, i couldnt get the door closed... Say, should i remove some of the rubber? i HATE to bang the doors like some maniac, some1 might call cops when the smashing that door.

Ok, what's the difference between "loop style" and "cut pile" ? Sry for my n00bnes.

Alright thanks, i think i lean on to MSA. How much they weight(about)?

So i need new carpets for my 72 and i need them to be good. I've tried ordering from Black Dragon but never succeeded, international orders seem to take forever. Ive ordered from Msa 2 times succesfully. The question is: Are the carpets similar quality? I'd love to order from MSA as it has been so painless but i have to consider other options as well. I need those carpets quick, summer is getting closer and closer..Driving season aint long here in Scandinavia.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

Passenger side wiper arm is super stuck. It wont move no matter how hard i tried. Next i'll sink it to citrus acid and let it be there for 2 days.

This sounds too familiar. My 72 had a similar ( not that fatal) operation with brakes. Mechanic spent 2 hours opening passenger side rear drum. Eventually he had to drill that adjust hole a bit bigger but that's no problem. I had changed master and slave cylinders for clutch and it works perfectly now. Shifts like a new car.

Is there any way repairing this?

I got that lever on place on drivers side door. Well after that i discovered next problem. This part (on pic) is worn out and it wont move pushrod enough to lock the door from outside. Also, im afraid to take out the passenger side window for lock removal, it fits so good now

Well it runs good with choke on and good without choke when warm. Idle is steady and i can rev it good. Only problem (is it?) vacuum difference and puffing smoke after shutdown. That scares me a little. You can hear loud SWOOSH when it puffs that smoke. I'll buy some higher octane gasoline and see if that helps..

Yeah, sadly atm i cannot afford newer set. Just got to fix those old ones somehow..

Still no improvement on pass side door. More problems in drivers side. I noticed that the pushrod (that connects lock cylinder to the rest) is not in the right place. Should that lever be in that hole? I tried to move it back to place but failed..

Yesterday we managed to open up stuck rear brakes. After that my mechanic friend bleeded the system but no pressure on brakes. I made a little run on the yard and if i pump brake several times quick, it'll stop but if i press just once nothing happens. So is this caused by bad master cyl or does master vac got something to do with this?

Yes rear brakes were stuck. But now to the carbs: After running warm and shutting it down, engine pops and rumble for few seconds and then it puffs white-blue smoke from carbs..! This happen almost every time. Also the vacuum is greater in front carb. How can i adjust that? Thanks already

Topic says it. I can rev the he** out of the engine when warm and idling but if i put gear on and release clutch, it barely moves and dies almost instant. I got to have at least 3K rpms to move it a bit.. need help quick! Edit: i probably posted this on the wrong place. Can it be rear brakes that cause this? They are totally stuck.

Ok i got this box with my Z when i purchased it last fall. I suppose it contains all (?) of the parts needed in 240z carbs. Needles are bent, but there's 2 new ones. I was wondering is there all the parts needed? And what might be value of these? In what price Ztherapy rebuilds this to new glory? I gotta check is there anyone here in Finland who rebuilds old SU carbs..

oz: Dont know about the waterpump, fanbelts did give a little whining sound. Cooling system has been completely flushed and all the hoses except those that go to heater core inside cabin have been replaced. In radiator theres water and green anti-freeze. 60/30. Havent use any anti-leak stuff yet. I have the original fan shroud. I dont know about timing, i dont know how to check or adjust it but the engine runs very well, it just overheats. :stupid: ChrisZ: I run Bosch plugs.

I got my car running after changing ballast resistor. It starts up nicely like under palm tree. Actually when little warm, it starts better than my daily driver Anyways, i started the engine and let it run for 5 or so minutes, i checked the gauges and heat was almost at the red bar so i instantly turned it off. It roared a bit after i turned it off, almost like it was starting by itself. There was no unusual smoke, no leaking of water. I removed thermostat and gonna change that first. Any other reason why it might have overheated?

Well i got new Japanese made resistor from local auto shop for 9€. It solved the problem! Thanks all for help!

Well i was invited Theres members from germany too. And its a nice community!

Stock ignition with newer coil, (dont remember the make). Frank T from CTZCC suggested that problem is in fusible link at starter solenoid! Gotta check that too!

Thanks mate, it seems to be 240Z, at least it really looks like one. Ok, is there any DIY method to revive that ballast resistor or should i just try to find new one?

Hi, screws are exact the same in both sides, 10mm bolt/screws with cross head