Reverend

32mm choke, 50/100 idle jets (50F9), 115 main jets (too small), F11 emuslion tube and 170 air corrector. My fuel pump should max out at 4 psi, so its not flooding at all, i get only ~2 psi to the fuel regulator. But cylinder nr 6 aint starving either as far as i know, if i put my hand over the throat, it blurbs fuel out. Here is picture of the whole engine bay if that helps figuring out.

Well the spark is healthier because it does not touch the fuselage, thats the only difference. I bypassed the ballast resistor i had on place and now it gives spark normally, when the plug touches anywhere in the fuselage/engine. BUT it did not solve the problem!! I measured that the new coil i have, has 3 ohm resistance and old one had 1.8 when it worked, maybe i need to get more powerful coil as well even it is not the problem anymore (i think..?) I disassembled the rearmost carburator, everything looked okay, sprayed craploads of carb cleaner to every possible place imaginable. I wonder could the brake booster somehow affect cyl nr6??

Did compression test. All cylinders were ~150psi.. i cleaned those small filters that are in each carb banjo fitting, there was some crap there but it did not affect. Here is couple videos of testing spark, is it strong enough? It only "activates" when its not touching the car, only from short distance, is that normal? Check out the second video for that https://www.dropbox.com/s/vehu2cfjt228q3q/20150510_122131.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/f5fcxdzafaa57cj/20150510_121426.mp4?dl=0 So its getting fuel (put my hand over the rampipe and fuel cam pouring out), it seems to have spark and its getting air. Pressure is good and valve clearances are set. What in the name of lawd almighty is wrong with nr6?

Hmmm. There is problem at cylinder 6. When i was driving, it felt constantly like its not running on all cylinders all the time. This morning i started it, felt and sound strange. Took of cyl nr 6 plug off, and it sounded exactly the same. SO nr 6 is not working. Its getting fuel as the plug is wet, tested plug and it gives spark... Valves? I have to do compression test as soon as possible.

I have Skoda (wich is Volkswagen, basically) with 1.9TDI and i get easy 50mpg with it, on the highway even more.

Hmmm. Another contradiction. It seems that carbs need craploads of fuel to run on idle and cruising speeds, but they starve when revving over 4500 rpms. Carbs sound like machinegun (popopopopopopopop) if i go over that...???

Im seriously thinking going back to SU's, because its crazy expensive to drive with triples. Some have suggested that with well tuned triples you could get to the same levels (on highway) but i doubt it...

I think i know why the fuel pressure gauge showed crazy numbers. I hooked it to the fuel line such way that it was at the "end" of the line, so no fuel would pass it. I need to get T-shape connector so i can allow fuel to travel pass it and measure the pressure then. OR just get a regulator with gauge..

Fascinating. :: Fuel pressure is way more than 3 psi, like 6 or 7, if i drop it any more, it starts to stumble like crazy...

I've set valves last summer, but might as well check them. I swapped those jets (for shitz'n giggles) and no effect. This is the current situation: -Timing @ 13 degree -Idle mixture screws 1.5 turns open -Runs super rich and stumbles and sneezes if idle is reduced -Consumes fuel like crazy -Idle jets are "50/100", i think thats 50F9

Yeah i was in the show today, lots of fun and 2 other s30's were there too BUT. Its not all dandy yet. I was so happy to get it running and driving, i seem not to notice that it stutters and sneezes occasionally. Well i've been driving maybe 100 kms in two days now and been tinkering with fuel pressure. First i tought it would be good idea to dial it down a bit (i dont have gauge btw) so i did that, if that would help leaning the carbs a bit. Well it stumbled a bit more after that so i turned it up a lot. After that it stumbled even more. After adjusting it somewhat to the point where it was, i noticed that even carbs get even flow of fuel, and all the idle screws are open 1.5 turns, it still spits from rearest carb, and especially from cylinder 6. Why from that particular cylinder? Because its in the end of fuel line, might it be, that it does not get enough fuel? Because i turned it open more than others, and it pops and sneezes over 3K rpm, when main jets are kicking in. To me, that seems like fuel issue..right? Could i compensate it by raising float instead of trying to open up the idle screw as much as i can?

Yeah, i know Snoopy :: Still not on the clear, i have to inspect the car today, have to keep fingers crossed. For now its running with ballast resistor, whats the pro's and cons running without one?

Its all crazy. I see spark coming from the plugs when i tested them with my old coil, and tested that the resistance was okay. I fight for weeks to get my Z running for the big car event in 1.st of may. Then, as a final resort, i went to parts shop and got a new coil, just to rule that out. And guess what....it was the goddarn coil all the time!! I dont usually smoke, but i have cigarets just in case i want one. I light one just after i have finished assembling all the stuff, coil, distributor (wich was tested by the guy who built it and verified as working, i saw the testing equipment and how it produces nice blue spark) yet another set of new plugs and new coil wire. After the nerve calming cigaret, I sat in the car, pressed gas 2 times so that the carbs get enough fuel to start and left the throttle halfway open. Turned key and BRAAAAAAPPPPP. I almost $^!# myself, it was like Z was angry at me for not seeing the obvious. It idles like straight from factory line (well everything else has been tuned for DAYS so i would not excpect nothing less haha) Now i have this stupid grin on my face and i can't get it off, help

Your engine looks good, i like it!

Yeah, it was clearly visible. So then the problem has to be in the amount of current (too low?), or in the distributor distributing it unevenly somehow...?

Sparks were blue, but apparently very small. My friend said that it should be at least 1 cm spark, but i saw only small ones, maybe few millimeters. But i do not remember were they in between the gap or outside of it. I truly, madly, deeply hope its the ignition module. My no-points system is oem 240z distributor with custom made ignition box and interiors. Been driving with those since 2009. Too bad i dont have spare distributor, but i shall wise up and get one extra. Could coil work at "half-speed" or something? I measured ohms from coil and ballast resistor, ballast was about 1.7 ohms and coil was about the same. I dont know jack squat about electronics but those readings should be okay?

Guy from the shop said "its not getting enough spark" He could not get it started either, even he's professional mechanic and runs his own shop. He was busy as he** and thats the only reply i got from him. He did not charge me so i could not go after and yell. I checked the fuel bowls and there is enough fuel, and its dripping from the ram pipes as i try to start it. Only rational explanation he has was that distributor was somehow damaged, so I took the distributor back to the guy who modified it from points to no-points dizzy. He said either it works or it does not work at all, so it should not work with "half" power... But i insisted on checking the dizzy anyway. I wonder is there any possibility that somehow all 6 plug wires were damaged at the same time..? I bought yet another set of plugs. Lets see how this works out.

It could be, but why the plugs were wet from fuel and black? There is contradiction in that.

Yes to all. Im taking my Z to a shop, i have tried everything in my power. Maybe they'll know more. Things like this just makes me feel so damn stupid.

No i havent. Because it does not run stay running..

Plugs are almost brand new, i cleaned them all and tried again with no change. I have gut feeling that it has something to do with spark but i just dont know what it is. Can i measure my coil somehow, that it is operating correctly? We have major car event coming in 4 days, the first of may....

Plug wires are in correct order, did check that out too. It sounds a lot like firing order is F-ed in bigtime. Is there any major wires inside console that i could have messed?

Something very strange has happened!! Yesterday was the first day in week i had time to tinker the car, so i started with my long planned speedo change. I had taken the old off beforehand, now was time to put the "new" one in. Well i succeeded in that and was planning to go to test drive to see if it works. Well i did not have my tachometer on and for some crazy arse reason the car did not start. Starter turned but engine did not start. I was mezmerised. Well decieded to check that engine problem later and put the tachometer back on and connected all the wires. After that car starts...OR TRIES. For some reason everything has gone straight to hell. It barely starts, stumbles like crazy, backfires from carbs and exhaust, engine shakes like crazy and only stays on if i hit pedal to the metal but i do not dare to do that, im afraid something has gone horribly wrong. I tried to tinker the timing, but no matter what i do, its just $^!#. No matter how retarded or advanced, it barely starts. Tried with 2 different distributor caps, 2 coils (another one was a MSD Blaster 2, but it apparently does not like the ballast resistor so it did start but died of instantly). Also checked plugs, they were all okay but equally black and wet. I checked all idle mixture screws, they were 1.75 turns open, i dialed them to 1.5. No change. Heres couple videos me trying to start it. https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8rdlchur2m56qt/20150426_204707.mp4?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5g6jzh2382diit/20150426_204532.mp4?dl=0 I've already stressed her out so many times that i did not dare to press the pedal and so you dont hear when she's actually running...wich is just plain scary. I dont know what to do.

That is a nice specimen, pure euro spec plus all the triple goodies on the engine.

Ah, they ground on the holding brackets. No worries.