Reverend

Any experience on MSA KYB shocks? Im planning to replace my ORIGINAL shocks. Lousy shocks, only lasts 40 years...

I have also heard good about them, one Finnish dude has bumpers from them and they look very good.

My 72 sounds more like V8 when cold, its not sputtering but not running with all the cylinders. I have warped distributor, also i dont get all the power Z has to offer when i hit the pedal to the metal.

Picture of OEM euro-bumper.

Reason for the starting failures was 1 year old (!!) Chinese ignition switch base. I switched 40yr old base back and it started to work. Hot damn these Japanese dudes can make everlasting electronic.

Old points system, this symptom seems to get worse by day. I can hardly start the car. I have brand new starter but could it be it?

Tach stops instantly..

Now this problem has a new turn: Z turns off when driving.. I was driving almost fully heated engine and then just like lightning from the clear sky, it turns off. I tried to start it but it didnt, well it did start but died instantly. I removed the ground cables and put them back. After that it runs great. Pleez help.

It was indeed smoking from the number 6, do i need to dismantle it or what?

Yayy! I made it run. Nice and steady idle, it seems i didnt screw up after all. BUT there is major problem. First i tought it was ignition lock related and i changed it about a year ago, it stayed away for this long. Engine can just instantly die without any warning, all the other electric stuff stays on, radio, fan etc. But the engine wont. Also sometimes it even wont start at all, i turn key and nothing, not even starter turns. Then i remove ground from battery, put it back and it starts. I NEED to deal with this quikly, as there is first Z meet in 3 years here, and i have to drive 600 miles next weekend. Cant drive with broken Z.. PS. is it normal that new manifold gaskets smokes?

Yes i turned cam few times and sprocket marks and cam marks match as does the lower 0 degree mark. So all SHOULD be fine..?! Well i better change that oil then, i use cheap Mobil 10W-40, which seems to be a good oil for my Z.

It's almost done! All i need to do is torque head bolts and install fuel pump and put all the hoses back. Why should i change oil? I have drove just 800 miles with these oils.

No i did not paint the chain, before removing, i checked that sprocket and cam markings fit. Now when i installed them back, they fit and chain is stiff. I believe i have done everything right.

With help of a dry apple cider, i managed to get the sprocket on place. Chain is tight so it seems i dont have to mess with it for a long time (hope so), now i shall open a another bottle for celebration

Well..eh.. i didnt paint any dimple, i just checked that the alignment marks were on right places and #1 was about 2o'clock. Chain "suppose" to be in same position. At least the marks fit and chain is very stiff. Thanks for the hints.

Head is now in place, my current problem is how to put cam sprocket back in place, all the marks align and chain seems to be tight enough but i just cant pop it in place. I still have that wooden stick holding chain, should i remove it when installing sprocket? If we manage to fit that guide pivot on its place it wont go deep enough..

Any1? I've cleaned the old surfaces with gasket remover and grinded the intake manifold to good as new condition. That little 20€ Dremel-lookalike is a must to have. Any hints on cleaning the pistons? They are completely charred and i only managed to clean no1 and 6 cause they are up. I dont want to mess with timing so maybe i'll just leave those 4 alone?

Head is now ready at the machine shop, it was actually a little warped. I was wondering about the manifold gasket, there is metal plates in it . Do they come against the manifold or against the head? This rebuilding part scares me the most, what could go wrong and how can i prevent that?

I got few nasty spots on my fender caused by tiny weeny drops of brake oil. I hate that stuff.

I got few nasty spots on my fender caused by tiny weeny drops of brake oil. I hate that stuff.

By the way, it usually happends when i turn the key slowly, step by step BUT if i just quickly turn it from off to start it starts right up. Weird. Got to look this today.

Hahaha, true

Head is now in machine shop, theyre gonna take the valve guides off IF they need to straighten it. Hope this goes well, i didnt sleep last night as i had nightmares about screwing this totally.

Li'l update on the current situation: Head is off and chain is tight for now. BUT i forgot to look in which hole the camshaft guide was in cam sprocket. There is 3 holes in sprocket. It SHOULD be in tdc, cam lobes are up (\ /) and piston also. Thanks to my lovely wife who helped me to lift the head up and hold the chain on place.

double that, it could be also bad ballast resistor (?)