Reverend

I have exactly the same problem. And guess where it first came up? AT THE INSPECTION OFFICE! I dont know what causes it but switching hazards on-off, on-off usually solves the problem for me.

I did a compression test few weeks ago and all the cylinders hit 150. Good?

"little surface rust" "a DIY-mans dream car"

I'd be very happy for your help Jeff! Newbies like me have to learn it someday. I wonder what else i can/have to do while head is off..?

Plugs looked brown reddish. There was some oil or something black on the 3rd and 4rd plug, i removed the substance and put the plugs back. Drove about 200 miles after that and plugs are clean. Sheehs, i better found out some who has done this before to help me.. Too many variables to remember.

Pics of the wet area

Bump. Now i've located a coolant (?) leak in the 6th cylinder. Also the gasket is a bit swollen from the rear. That explains why i have to top up the radiator quite often. All hints are more than welcome to ease this task. I need to have this car running in 2 weeks so.. edit. i have no oil on the water and no goo on the oil.

Im trying to find remanufactured starter here (Finland) but i need the original part number and knowledge about the power. They said to me (in auto part shop) that there is 0.8kw and 1kw starters. Help?

I remember someone had problem with his 73 flattop-Z in zcar.com and he was adviced to use those flattops as a boat anchor..

Power antenna is a rare part!

Is roller installed horizontal or upright? And i have only one, where can i get more, or can i?

Okay, i need to find out where in the name of god that window roller suppose to go? If someone has pictures please post. I want to put my door panel back on place, needed to remove as i noticed that i missed the roller and the rubber stopper from the bottom of the door.

I bought my z from california few years back and it has this problem now and then. Sometimes starter just wont say anything, and if you wait like 20 secs, it starts normally. Starter is about 10 years old according to service history. Solenoid going bad or is the problem elsewhere?

I dynamatted my panels all around, no more creaking.

I installed the panels using that butyl strip, i like the result. The strips aint messy at all, no colour stains or so. It also seals the door interior better than the original clips.

That orange one looks like it can be saved!!

By the way, i have 2 original window crancks but for some reason only the other one seems to stick in doors. No matter what spring i use (i got 4of'em) Also the crancks are identical..

Remove all the smog crap, i did and engine bay looks cleaner. BUT i couldnt get rid of that air galley because its rusted stuck. I will cut it off and weld it shut when i got time/money. If you follow the hoses and pipes, you'll soon figure out what it's for

Okay but i can drive with it? I mean im not going to any road trip but you know, 10 miles etc. I will order a new distributor asap.

I replaced that hose and it might have reduced the stink about 20%. One of the few 240z owners here said that the problem could be caused by the carb/manifold gasket, he had changed head gasket for 3 times in his car until he found out the problem..

I havent even noticed it before until my friend said that my distributor wobbles. Is it normal..? I dont want to wreck anything.

Thing is, that the exhaust smells like it should BUT the engine bay doesnt. That smell does not come from vents from inside but the opposite. Its lot stronger outside car.

I found the leak in heater, seems to leak from either the upper or lower or both. The lower is easy to replace but the upper is molded.. So i better make an order to MSA or is there any other source? It dumps water only when radiator is topped, maybe its the cap thats broken. Steam in any quantity... so there can be NO exhaust steam at all?

How do i bypass it? Im not going to tear the whole dash apart for sure...

Okay, any handy hints how to remove heater core easily? Gonna start to tear it apart tommorrow.