Reverend

I havent got a slightest idea. By initial timing you mean ..? Sorry for my non-professionality on this matter. I've just had so much stuff on the platter and i've forgot all this.

So, first of all, i've been gone from the car circles for a long time for certain reasons. Have forgot most what i learned about carbs and timing. Problem: last summer, i broke my distributor. Yes, it went broken. The collar that holds dizzy on place (with 2 10mm screws) was bent and eventually dizzy started to wiggle, so forth destroying all screw threads that were holding it to place. SO. I replaced it with similar kind of oem 240z distributor (no-points, custom made) and i just CANT make it run nicely. I have 3 SK/OER dual sidedrafts that were tuned last summer. Havent touched them since. I dont remember the basics of timing, but i have timing gun with igniton advance setting. Tell me what are the correct numbers for proper timing on 3 carbs. We tried every combo. It sometimes idled super smooth, then when rpms raised, ran like $^!#. In two weeks we have major car event here, i just need it to be done with before the show. Thanks in advance

I was happy with SM needles in my SU's back in the day. Now i only wish i had SU's....

Btw, what would be the best fuel level "check" tool for OER/SK carbs? I remember there was some discussion about DIY ones somewhere.

All this is good info! Looking forward to use this with my SK/OER carbs as well. Thanks!

I dont know is this the same guy but here this one guy from "Netherlands" (who is unmistakely an middle-eastern person) tries to purchase EVERY old LHD Kenmeri and other six-shooter Datsuns. Apparently he has been in some sort of trouble with our police. Beware. No matter how much money they offer, be sure that your car will not get the home it deserves. Just my 2 cents. Dont be offended.

I took it to dizzy specialist. He will add a small module to it. He might tinker with the Crane box too. Im excited to see what will be the outcome. And that dizzy is a no-points one.

I think this dizzy is originally from 240Z? It has couple wires coming from it, what else does it need to operate?

Nice writeup! If someone is interested, they still sell those Nikki (and the other OEM brand wich i cannot remember) pumps here in some places.

I think im just going to use the distributor and sell the rest. Reading all of these manuals makes my head hurt OR maybe i hire someone to do this swap..

Hah. Stock was bad, my current one is custom made no-points. It works okay but the distributor chassis is broken. What are the benefits when using that lump of metal called ignition box? I suck at anything electrical.

I purchased this kit from my friend pretty cheap. Too bad i have no clue what are all these wires. There is Pertronix kit installed on the distributor, Crane Fireball Hi-65 module of and MSD blaster 2 coil. This came from Z but how the heck there is 4 times more wires than in the original system? I do have no-points system in my car but even with it there is only 1 or 2 extra wires...My friend told me that with that coil no ballast resistor is needed, yet there is one with gazillion wires in it. I really need your input here cause my old distributor is broken..

Im using this kind of pump, something like 60 bucks. Very quiet.

Mine is from MSA, installed by professional. They look sexy and feel good.

How much for just the chrome tip?

BTW is there any proper way to get that air galley off the exhaust manifold?

He has similar-ish carbs as i did in my 72, "regular" SU's. Yeah it will look way better without all those. So we'll just have to find a proper plugs for the exhaust manifold outlet and water hose. Ported control vacuum? is it the small black hose in the picture? Whats the purpose of it? Just realised that its the choke wire... . Too long since i had SU's..

My friend has a 1973 240Z with smog equipment, and he decieded to get rid of it. I just wonder what is the purpose of these pipes, my -72 does not have them. One goes to heater hose that comes from manifold and other goes to exhaust manifold?? Is there any grand purpose for these items, will they affect on anything if removed? We are planning to put E41 balance tube (euro) but it seems we have to modify the throttle lever as well.. btw. what is that small pipe that attachs to brake booster outlet?

Well the old plugs were all black as a night. All.

I have this weird issue. Installed set of SK carbs this spring and had the tuned by pro. Been driving since with no problems until now, i cannot accelerate properly because one of the cylinders drop out around 3000 rpms. I have renewed all the plugs plus wires are only year old. Im also running no-points ignition so that is not the problem. To me it feels like it could be carb related, but also could be fuel related issue. I dont really know. I have holley regulator and i have cut down that pressure a bit, but do not know the pressure in system, because i dont have gauge for that. All help appreciated.

Dang bearing shop... they did not have that kind of bearing, well i completely washed it with degreaser and put new greases in. No more squeal! Hopefully that old bearing lasts...

I took that bearing off, it was completely dry and it was rattling. Even if the sound was not coming from there, i will change it. Mucho grease will definetly help!

Hah youre welcome, feel free to use that as your phone ringtone or something Just noted that i can get the same sound by pressing front left strut downwards (aka. hopping over hood) ... could it still be the bearing?

Hah, okay thanks No balloon animals or puppies. It really is weird sound and it appears on all surfaces. Usually noise emerges when steering wheel is barely moved, when you turn it quikly or forcefully, no sound, when doing slight alterations SQUEEEEEKKK. I removed the tire and the sound went off. Maybe it actually is the strut bearing because when there is no tire, also no pressure to strut dish/insulator/bearing...