Reverend

Correction, both trannies have hold down screw at the above, not bottom of aluminium mount. How deep must the pinion be in the hole? I wonder if i have overpushed it too deep

I have 2 sets of aluminium assemblies. First i used the one that came with 5 speed, and then one from 4 speed. Neither of them worked. Both trannies have the hold down screw at the bottom of pinion...

L-engines and Cedrics...mmmmm. Got both of those waiting for restoration...Nice dyno sheet man!

I installed my 5 speed tranny last spring and put the correct pinion (black, if i remember correctly) BUT my speedo has not been working since. Worked fine before the swap. First i tought it was not deep enough in the tranny, so i shoved it in. Did'nt help. I swapped the pinion mounts (i had 2 of'em) and tried. No bueno. Used a electric drill with speedo cable, and my oh my it moved. SO, what is the matter? Pinion is not ruined or anything, looks just fine to my eye just like the blue one i had in 4 speed. Why does it not work even i have pushed it way deep in the transmission?

Plug wires are okay. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vw2pznsl2eg6uq9/20140310_191707.mp4 Im planning to reduce timing a bit and try again.

I did the adjustments by manual (idle speed and mixture screws) and managed to fire it up, yay! But it runs super rough, only like on 3 cylinders. When i rev it, it spits and coughs but fires up more cylinders. All in all, i dont really know is it the timing or badly tuned carbs

Looks good! Congrats!

Puffs are coming from the tailpipe. I got manifolds pretty tightly torqued. Yea, got to get a pair of hands for help. Car ran about 6 months ago (with SU's)

Okay, so I triedto start it without the linkage. Fuel started to move trough the lines nicely but I noticed a major leak on the regulator, so firstly I retigthtened it. Primed carbs couple of times manually cause no working linkage. Tried to start it but no luck on that. it makes funny "puff puff puff puff" noise, like a steam train but does not start. I wonder what I have done wrong

Just to kick this topic one more time. Talked with one dude who has MSD box, and he says that static timing (5 degrees) is way too low, and it should be around 15. But that raises the total advance too much (close to 60 degrees) SO i wonder what needs to be done MECHANICALLY to the distributor?

If any of you guys need Kyosan Denki pumps, i could perhaps provide. They still sell those here.

Couple more shots

Screwing up continues. I might as well use this thread. The oem linkage did not align with the setup so i tried to modify the oem throttle rod. With bad results of course. Found out a machine shop that modded my rod and it looks like this Looks good, except it does not work. The misalignment moves it to very weird positions, and its not working as predicted. It should be maybe located 1 inch to the left from original place. I've seen pictures of similar kinds of setup SOMEWHERE, but cant found out. Those who have similar(ish) setup please respond, how did you do it. CheerZ

Yea, got to remember that. So far im not putting any relays, using the factory harness. Only fuse.

I found that nice spreadsheet from link provided by madkaw. Thanks. I have D606-52 dizzy, sooo.... it seems to be safe to use with vacuum advance....?

Blue: the same pdf is on my dropbox link. All i need to know is it dangerous to experiment with standard dizzy and vacuum advance. I dont want to break anything so i rather ask stupid questions.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/28489-tripple-webers-vacuum-advance.html "The issue with triple webers is that they just don't generate enough vacuum from any one throat to pull/move the diaphragm in the dizzy." Im confused. Does it pull too much or too little?

So does standard 240Z dizzy pull too much vacuum? Could it work as is or does it need to be modified?

I read about somewhere (i think it was in this forum) that vacuum advance in properly tuned engine/carburator can improve the fuel efficiency with triples as well. It was somekind of research, cant remember where it was. Im very close to finishing my project with triple carb setup and i would like to hear about your experience in using vacuum advance with 3 carbs. I have SK carbs and they have vacuum port fitted, though only in one out of 3. Rest are sealed for some reason. Does one barrel provide enough vacuum for distributor? My engine is stock, with MSA header but i have no-points dizzy. I think timing was set to 17 degrees. Any info/help would be appreciated. edit. haha, i had saved the pdf to my dropbox. take a look: https://www.dropbox.com/s/p0jo85kt4mbbcpe/Weber%20DCOE%20Fuel%20Economy%20Study.pdf

Winter in hell = every year about 6 months.

This is more electrical related but i wouldnt want to start a new topic. I've now connected the pump to the harness (black and green wire) but i need to know whats next. I suck at electrics so i need some advice. Im not putting any oil pressure switches so can i just skip it and do the rest from this schematic? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CWjSgwvzsOk/UPRxCc8KrtI/AAAAAAAAAU8/NzKgduH15wQ/s1600/FuelPumpSchematic_v2.JPG

Yea, get rid of the mechanical pump (and cam drag) and put the electrical near tank (differential mount is a good place, thanks Dave)

Well i now have that new pump. Its the Airtex/Webcon inline "el-cheapo" pump. Supposed to deliver up to 130liters/hour at 5-9psi. Installed it to same place as Dave, at the differential mount. Fits perfectly. Now i just need to tinker the electrics. Im not going to put any fancy inertia switches etc. Too complicated for my brains.

That is a Airtex/Webcon fuel pump, just installed one to my Z yesterday Funny, havent seen it installed in engine bay, it would be much more efficient near fuel tank. Btw. why do you still use mechanical as well?