JohnnyP

I did replace the stock fuel pump with an aftermarket Airtex pump, so I believe it does not have the pressure cutoff switch inside. Thanks for the tips! I have a PDF version of the FSM so I'll look through it and start the troubleshooting! Thanks a ton guys/girls John

Is there a Haynes manual or E.F.I troubleshoot for the CTS?

I've been searching a bit and can't figure out how to test that temp sender unit (check its signal path). Is there a specific test to run? For a pic of the temperature switch that I mentioned is broken check the link! Post #4 is exactly the switch that broke on my thermo housing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35873&highlight=thermostat+housing Thanks again all, John

Is the rear hatch "datsun script" still available?

Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention that the wires, cap, and rotor were all changed out when I did the plugs, probably a few weeks ago. And they were checked recently as well. I inspected the CTS, and it is connected as it should be. I am going to trace its signal path back to the ECU as suggested, next. However, I did find that one of the connectors on the thermostat housing, with two wires (ground & bullet plug), where both wires are not attached to the actual part that is screwed in to the therm housing. The ground wire is grounded, and the bullet plug is plugged in, but neither are actually still physically connected to the that plug thats on the thermostat housing (broke loose from their solder). I don't know what this part is called exactly, its not the temp sensor or temp sender, that much I know. Could this be adding to the problem? By the way, Cygnusx1…huge Rush fan!

76' 280z...I've been having a problem with lack of power/stumble/hesitation on acceleration. I've checked and adjusted; TPS, timing, vacuum advance, vacuum lines/hoses, clean spark to all plugs (new NGK's), new fuel pump (replaced for the sake of replacing it, not just to throw money at the problem!), flushed fuel lines, new fuel/oil filter, oil change, I checked and rechecked fuel pressure at the fuel rail…I real don't know what else to go through… The car was running yesterday, I wake up this morning and try to start it..nothing! It cranks and sounds strong like it is JUST about to turn over, but it never gets that far. So I tried to crank it a few more times. On the third go, fuel starts spurting out of the #5 injector, right out of the top of the hose where the injector hose meets the fuel rail..Would I be correct in assuming that this means fuel is getting all the way to the injectors but isn't passing through? And this release of fuel through the hose is a symptom of a pressure build up in the fuel rail? Maybe a bad fuel injector pressure regulator? I'm confused on this one…Any help/suggestions/advice would really help me out! Thanks in advance to anyone. John

Thanks for all the info guys. Ok so I'm getting that its not a vacuum advance issue. What else could be causing it this problem? John

I have a '76 280z. It starts up and runs, but I've been having a problem I can't narrow down. Wen the car is running and I press the accelerator, it lags for just a quick second. By lag, I mean, when the gas pedal is pressed, the engine looses a little power and slows down, than resumes as normal. The RPMs go down a little, and you can hear it in the way the engine runs, and feel it. This takes place in about 1-2 seconds. Also, at the same time, but randomly, there is a sort of a low popping sound. But it isn't very loud, it doesn't sound like backfiring. Bad gasket somewhere? This is what I've done to try and diagnose the problem: Oil change (Castrol 10W-30) new oil/air/fuel filter New fuel pump (it was bad anyways) New air/fuel hoses under the hood New NGK plugs, new wires, cap and rotor Correct timing per '76 FSM specs. Followed the EFI Troubleshooting in the '76 FSM (through the 35 pin connector) I tested the vacuum advance by removing the hose to the vacuum advance (…not the end connected to it) and pulled air through, but could not see the plate move. Do these symptoms fight for a bad vacuum advance? Anything to be offered is always very appreciated. Thanks everyone! John

I'm looking for a pair of wiper arms for my 280 (1976)....without having to pay through the nose....I was also curious; is there a possibility of finding some universal wiper arms they have the auto parts store, that are the same, or are close to, the specifications of the stock wiper arms? In terms of length and all that. If anyone has any thoughts to offer, I'm all hears and would really appreciate it. John

In NH, if a vehicle is 15 years or older, no title is needed for registration or inspection…but that is irrelevant, in this case, right? Seeing as after registering the car, and having it inspected, a title will be issued. What I do know is that when undergoing an inspection, they do not (from what I've seen) hunt down all the spots were the VIN should be on the car….But I am just speaking from what I've seen. The case might be different for an older car, I'm not sure, so I can't really say I guess… Thanks for all the info guys, I'm glad I caught this and put it up on here before going to get it registered. John

Very interesting stuff! Thanks for that spread sheet, mgood. John

So I have a car with the proper VIN stamped on the firewall, and its engine number matches? But it has a set of 72 240z plates (engine and door jamb), as well as the 240 VIN on the title? How does this get fixed...

......Oh great.

Yeah thats what I think…Which seems really odd..But oh well.

The stamp above the brake booster says HLS30-297637…and then the VIN on the title says HLS30-65361…I'm confused? Does that means it IS in fact a 76 280z? And if so, someone changed the plates with that of a 72 240…?

The door jamb plate is not 100% legible, but the VIN is clear. It is, HLS30-65361. The VIN on the dash plate is completely gone. And I looked thoroughly throughout the firewall, but couldn't any sign of numbers. Where is this stamp usually? Thanks again, Arne. John

Here is a picture of the block number, and the plate. Might be hard to see the numbers, but they are as posted above. Thank you!

So I bought a 1976 280z, fuel injected and automatic trans. The plate on the inside of the engine compartment (injector side) reads: Type: HLS30 Engine No.: L24 080617 However the engine block reads: L28 084935 And the vin is HLS30-65361 I'm not sure if this means anything, it just got me curious. If anyone could translate this stuff into english for me, that'd be great! Thanks a lot John

I'm a fool...

Anybody know how to open up this bad boy? I'd really like to clean it up!

I'm not sure if this is the right section for this thread…but anyhow. I'm replacing the fuel pump on a 76 280z. Picked up the Airtex electronic pump yesterday. I guess my question is what are some other things I should look out for, or clean up, while doing this job. So far I plan on dropping the fuel tank, cleaning up that, as well as the straps. Replacing the hoses to and from the fuel tank, fuel pump and expansion tank. Also the in line fuel filter. What am I missing? John

So my '76 280z needs a new fuel pump. Im not exactly sure if its a mechanical or electrical fuel pump, or how to tell the difference. I was hoping I could get some info on how to distinguish between the two, and where I might be able to get a good replacement fuel pump. John

Where can I get a fuel gauge like the one your talking about?

I had a thread going in the "Help Me" section, but felt it appropriate to move it over here… Here is the dilemma: My car starts and will move and all that. On start up or whenever I depress the accelerator, I get next to no power. The best way I can describe it is by saying that when I press the accelerator the car makes a sputtering sound, like its about to stall. It doesn't go away if I give it some gas and just try to ride it out. This problem has been haunting me for a few weeks now. Here is what I have done as far as trying to diagnose/treat the problem… EFI troubleshooting for "lack of power" Checked and adjusted timing Checked/tested vacuum advance and replaced its hose I tried plugging the cold start (as suggested by ZtylerZ) Checked the fuel/air filters I did a compression test, yielding the following results: Cyl#1: 155 Cyl#2: 160 Cyl#3: 155 Cyl#4: 160 Cyl#5: 160 Cyl#6: 155 1976 280z FSM compression range: Compression pressure kg/cm2 (psi)/at rpm: 11.5 - 12.5 (164-178) Pulled the spark plugs and compared them to the Haynes manual for spark plug diagnosis What am I missing? What else could be the source of the problem? Thanks to any and all who lend their advice on this one, and to everyone whose helped me out thus far. John

Sounds like a great time! I will check out the site and I will definitely be there! Ken: I bought the car just under a year ago, up in Campton NH, one exit after Plymouth.