bryand2

Those are watanabe 16x9 and 16x9.5 on hancook ventus r-s3's

Maybe just a little further

Does anyone have any more ideas as to why I am experiencing this only while decelerating in gear?

Thank you captain, but remember that I am only experiencing this while decelerating in gear, If I am coasting in neutral I do not experience the burning eyes

Just to specify, you say I may be pushing clouds of atomized gasoline mixed with oil out the tail pipe, the only problem is if there were worn rings or valve seals there would be smoke, and there is not. There is also no coolant in the oil or vice versa to indicate a head gasket leak. As far as I understand the BCDD, it has nothing to do with mixture at high manifold vacuum, it only prevents the idle from dropping too quickly on coast and between shifts.

If your hearing a click when you move the counter weight then it is either your fuel pump relay, because that contact causes to fuel pump to kick on, or it is your fuel injection relay. The fuel pump relay is above the fuse box on passenger side, fuel injection relay is up under the dash on the drivers side above your left knee

Just curious, which plugs are you using now, they look like ngk iridiums, if so whats the number on them?

Yes its worse the higher the rpm is, my compression is good, do I use oil? and i know the bcdd is working, but I am not sure if it is adjusted properly, the douche at the smog station messed with it about a year ago and despite reading the FSM, I am not sure how to adjust properly

that was my thought, maybe egr malfunctioning, I did discover today that the little vacuum delay valve is not working properly, its supposed to be easier to blow in one side than the other and was equally easy on both sides, im not sure i that would make the egr stay open all the time or closed all the time? As to the other comment about having high manifold vacuum, I was running a bit rich and I dont rem where I read that improper mixture affects the manifold vacuum, is it rich=higher vacuum or rich=lower vacuum?

Sorry guys, it is stock except for a Borla muffler

Hey everyone, my 77, which is bone stock, burns my eyes on deceleration while in gear. The exhaust fumes are so bad that they burn my eyes, but this is only with the drivers side window down and only while decelerating in gear. Anyone have thoughts as to what may be causing this?

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me figure how my alternator is wired the way it is and still working. My car is a 77 and has been swapped to the internally regulated unit. According to the write up on Atlantic z, the wires to be connected from the harness side are 2 to 3 and 1 to 5. My car has wire number 5 connected to wire number 6 with a diode in between. I am curious how this is working and I realize that my brake check warning lamp and voltmeter light arent working but it does not currently affect the way the car runs it is however hard to start when cold and when I say cold I mean sat overnight regardless of the outside temperature.

Actually if you read the factory shop manual, you are supposed to have 5 3/4 quarts, with the 3/4 qt being for the oil filter

and thanks for everyone elses input

thanks leon, I know, but sometimes I really like the looks of them

Hey guys, I have a set of fender mirrors I bought for my z, but now I am torn on whether to put them on or not. Sometimes I like the looks of them and sometimes I dont, plus I'm not sure how I feel about drilling into my fenders. What do you guys think?

No, my car is a 4 speed

Hi guys I need some help here, I have a 77 280z and I just recently noticed that not all of the pins on my ecu match the ports on the harness connector, the part number on the ecu is A11-601 but why am I missing connections?

Notice that my thumb is above wire # 1, sorry the pics are small

correction, in first sentence meant white with a black stripe

Hey Steve, the PO had wires # 5 and 6 jumpered together, which are a blue one and a back with white one. About 3 months ago i realized they had it wrong, it was supposed to be 1 and 5, and 2 and 3 and I corrected it. Once I did this the system was operating as it should including the alternator charge light test and brake lamp warning test. However it was after this that my hot start problem began so I reverted back to the #'s 5 and 6 wires jumpered together and the car runs fine. And btw 5 and 6 are jumpered together with a diode in between. Steve could possible explain how the car is running fine with just 5 and 6 connected. 5 is white with black stripe and 6 is blue http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

Hey guys, I posted a while back about the alternator upgrade that the PO had done and based on blue's tech tips, the wiring for the externally regulated alternator was wrong but the car was running fine. Based on blues diagrams, the PO had jumpered wires 5 and 6 from the alt. harness together where blue said numbers 5 and 1. So i reverted back to the way it was originally and now I am overcharging, showing about 14.9-15.1 volts, is running that much voltage going to cause damage? I know the stock voltage is supposed to be 13.8-14.4

Hey guys looking for a fan shroud for my 77, anyone got one in norther california?

Fortunately, my afm has a white toothed wheel, there was a dark grey mark on one of the teeth, as well as a matching mark inside the casing so i knew where to set it

Thank you everyone for your input, I have good news the problem is fixed. When I had the car smogged about a year ago the smog guy went into my afm and leaned the mixture to get it to pass. I went back in, adjusted the toothed wheel to richen the mixture up a bit and the problem is gone. I noticed an immediate difference in the temperatures coming out of my heater on my feet, not nearly as hot. The car was already running lean, generating more heat than it should and when the WTS and air temp sensor were adjusting fuel based on the temperature, it was dumping less fuel than it needed on an already lean running engine