BTF/PTM

And since the bolts are mentioned here, I'll continue with this question. I caught in Walter Moore's thread that the stock bolts are quite soft compared to newer metal options, so will I be ok with getting grade 5 bolts as replacements, or is something harder like grade 8 a better choice?

Auto Zone, Worldwide Auto and Car Quest can all supply a rebuilt 280zx distributor locally. Z Car Source can ship me one. The price ranges from $105 to $200, none of them include the ignition module. This is unrelated to the question, so we'll skip that detail. So... Specifically, in the experience of those of y'all who have used and who currently use these units, are there preferences for specific suppliers? Is one better than the other in terms of using better parts or having a more in-depth process? Would a $200 Z Car Source unit truly be better than a $105 Auto Zone piece? Is there another place that could ship me one that anyone recommends? Thanks everyone. *edit* I've done some calling around, it seems like every reman'd distributor out there is a Cardone. Rock Auto, Advance Auto, Car Quest and Auto Zone all use their stuff. Not sure how Auto Zone manages to have their parts so much cheaper than the competition (not to mention the lifetime warranty), but it looks like they win if it really is all the same Cardone stuff.

So maybe they're not really supposed to swivel - perhaps I should sit in both seats and get the top bracket pointed where it would be for someone about my height and then tighten the bolts.

Well, yesterday I managed to plop a 17mm wrench squarely into the oil pan full of 4 quarts of dirty oil out of my friend's Subaru during an oil change, so dropping the 12mm wrench in this case doesn't seem too unlikely

Hmm...ok, so this confirms what I mentioned above, about another thread I'd read illustrating this problem. I need to look into that, I think. I haven't yet opened the PDF service manual, so if it's in there just say so and I'll check it out after work, but is there a way to reset that valve if it's been tripped?

Freaking killer, thanks Johnny! I've already emailed Bonzai Motorworks, so hopefully progress can be made quickly.

I'm picking up fresh bolts for the seat belts tomorrow, and I'm wondering if anyone used any particular spacers or washers for the upper shoulder strap mount. That bracket is supposed to swivel, and it's entirely possible that the PO just never put the proper spacers back on (both swivel bolts were loosely threaded into the pillar when I got it). I just have the bolts with very thin red papery washers on them. Any advice?

I'll chime in with an update on this thread for anyone interested. I ordered a set of the MSA retracting seat belts with the "Z emblems". Was utterly disappointed when I opened the box. The "Z emblems" are just little round stickers that you apply yourself, and the contour-sleeved push-button buckles in my '72 were to be replaced with cheesy airplane style flap buckles with no sleeve at all. My existing seat belts work quite well now that I've removed them and thoroughly cleaned them, the retractors and shoulder strap adjusters are in good shape. I do agree that the 38-year-old seat belts should be replaced for peace of mind, but I'm not going to trade the existing equipment for something that isn't at least a close replacement. I'm going to put fresh mounting bolts in now that I know what size they are, and I'll keep my eyes open for closer replacements. Just my two cents, I'm no purist when it comes to keeping the car period correct but I do want stuff that at least *looks* like it was designed for the car.

Considering the feedback thus far and that my z is completely stock, I don't think there's any need for a grounding bar just yet. I'll let that project wait. I have a tendency to get overly excited about new projects and start dreaming about absolutely every possible thing that could be improved As for the voltage regulator bypass, I'm pretty sure the object in the picture below is it. http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/z%20parts/?action=view&current=voltageregulator.jpg If installing my MSA 60-amp alternator and VR bypass plug is as simple as installing the new alternator and then disconnecting the stock VR and plugging the bypass plug into the wiring harness, that will be done tomorrow. I've been waiting on the installation to get feedback on it and make sure it's actually as simple as the claim states. Thanks again for the continued help, everyone!

Thanks, guys! Arne, I completely understand that you meant factory when you said it, I asked about aftermarket publishers becuz the 3-volume factory service manual I still own for my late '91 Honda CRX Si (I still miss that lil car) was genuine Honda information but was a reprint through a third party. Even the covers are authentic. I still have the factory service books for each vehicle I've owned and worked on. It's a short list thus far, but I keep them as souvenirs

Glad I can help keep you on your toes, Zs Thanks again for the explanations. Arne, I've actually been hunting for one. Is there a particular publisher or aftermarket supplier that's recommended?

^Thanks, that helps a lot! I traced the lines coming from the MC and then from the splitter below. The larger reservoir feeds down to the bottom connection of the front (closer to the radiator) three connections on the lower switch. The remaining two of those three come out the top and front of the switch and those trace out to the front calipers. The smaller reservoir feeds down to the bottom connection of the rear (closer to the firewall) two connections on the lower switch. The remaining line goes along the firewall and under the transmission tunnel to the rear brakes and presumably splits further down. This sounds like exactly what you described, so that helps the understanding factor quite a bit. Is there any kind of active shut-off built into the low line pressure warning light? I remember seeing a thread about having zero fluid flow through the rear brakes after improper bleeding as a result of that switch tripping some kind of shut-off. Was I reading something that pertained to a different model? Thanks again for the assistance, I hate not understanding this stuff.

So I've been searching and reading and learning what I can, but I'm a bit overwhelmed by everything and need to ask for clarification. My '72 is my first experience with a dual reservoir brake system and I'm not sure what's what. First off, what is the device that's mounted in the engine bay below the MC? Pictures below. http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/z%20parts/?action=view&current=MC2.jpg http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/z%20parts/?action=view&current=MC1.jpg I understand it's got a switch in it that triggers a trouble light in the event of line pressure loss, but specifically what is this little machine and what else, if anything, does it do for the braking system? Is is a metering valve? Is it something else? Is it correctly connected to the MC? I understand the overall function of hydraulic brakes, worked on lots of them over the years, but I'm unsure of this lil bugger and I think it's best to ask before I go diving into things with wrenches a'flyin'. Thanks, everyone.

There's actually a city called Los Banos??

I keep finding new adventures on the car, I think about the only thing I'm sure of is that the frame and belly pan are solid. As for the rest, let the games begin

So it sounds like it's safe to say that, unless I start installing components with computing ability and bit-count feedback loops, a couple simple firewall grounds should be plenty. Not planning to do anything that advanced any time soon

I have the "weak brakes - weak brakes - weak brakes -CRAPTHEWHEELSJUSTLOCKEDUP" pedal sequence despite a healthy brake system as far as components goes. I had the vacuum booster rebuilt at a local shop (which in retrospect I should have done myself becuz after looking at it I realize I'm more than capable of doing it), the 15/16" MC is new, front brake lines are new, pads/shoes are new and all four corners have been bled.

Fair question. I don't have a scientific answer for you, except that I know circuitry likes to have a ready path to ground and I've read that our cars after all these years can have deteriorated wiring so I was thinking I could help the situation a bit by giving the chassis fresh grounds. Would it be sufficient for me to stick with the single bolt hole that's currently used (it grounds the chassis back to the smaller lead at the negative battery terminal)? Also, while I'm on the subject, I have a question about engine grounds. It's a newbie question since (obviously) electronics aren't my strong point so I apologize in advance. I know that spark plugs are basically a big ground wire that jumps a spark and grounds that energy to the engine and then back to the battery; is there any need to ground the cylinder head via one of the valve cover bolts, or is there enough ground already with the main negative cable attached to the starter base/bell housing? The question comes from previously working with my early 90's Honda that had small ground wires in several places between engine and chassis. I know the cars aren't very similar, but I figure it's worth it to ask since I don't know how many ground leads my z had before I got it or how many it *should* have. Thanks

So I'm in the process of diagnosing weird brakes, first thing on the list tomorrow is to see if the reaction disk is in place. Anyway, today I did the basic thumb check on the vacuum lines between the engine and the booster. There's vacuum at the manifold, vacuum through the check valve and vacuum through each segment of tube. But... When I opened the check valve, and also the final segment of tube which made sense, it made (makes) a distinct sort of sputtery groaning sound as air get sucked through it. Is this normal? I didn't connect a vacuum gauge (don't have one) so I don't know if the vacuum changes strength, but I still felt it on my thumb at all points. Is the check valve supposed to make that noise? Anyone have experience with this? p.s. - I also tried flipping the check valve around and reconnecting it, just to see if it made a difference. It did, there was definitely a loss of vacuum when it was backward.

I now have the correct Nissan battery, correct Nissan battery frame and I just picked up fresh battery cables and some 10ga wire for making some chassis grounds. I'd like to further improve things by making or buying a grounding bar that mounts on the firewall and holds the main battery ground lead and connects engine/chassis grounds. I think I can just bolt a basic bent bar to an existing bolt hole (would like to use two, but I only see one that's factory and readily available). Is there a kit that anyone has used that worked well? Has anyone just cut a chunk of copper or aluminum and bolted it to the firewall and run their ground leads to it? Input welcome.

Thanks!! I must admit I'm paranoid about the frame rails since they look hollow and fairly fragile since almost every z I've seen (including my own) has a few good-sized dents banged into the rails. My jack stands are the same time as yours with the "Y" head, so it looks like I'll be ok.

I put jack stands on the lower front differential cross member when working on the fuel tank level sender seal, but I feel like that was too far inward for comfort if I'm going to be actually under the car. Do the seat belt retractor pockets behind the seats have the beef to put jack stands there?

So the final comment you made about fuel falling out of suspension due to insufficient vacuum also explains (at least in part) why a set of triple Webers is less street-friendly than the pair of SU's our cars come with; becuz with significantly reduced vacuum due to significantly reduced restriction, fuel vaporization is affected...fascinating This is exactly the type of explanation I was hoping for, thanks!! So many new bits of knowledge to research now. I love it.

I wasn't sure where to post this, but it's engine-related so I'll start here. My question is in relation to where the vacuum that creates the advance in the distributor (among other things the car uses it for) is really made. It stands to reason that it's the pistons creating the physical vacuum during their intake strokes and that vacuum is translated through the intake manifolds as air flows to fill that vacuum. Yes? If it turns out I'm wrong already, someone please correct me. Anyway, with the pistons generating a vacuum, does it also stand to reason that installing an oversize block (a 2.8 in place of a 2.4, for example) can offset the function of the devices that use the vacuum since the pistons would be mechanically larger and thus generate a slightly stronger vacuum as they operate? An example of this could be a vacuum advance dashpot on a distributor or a vacuum brake booster not working exactly as intended. Are these ideas correct? Are the effects of such a change small enough that one wouldn't notice them? Are they measurable? This isn't a troubleshooting question, it's just a curiosity that hopefully some our veteran tinkerers can explain. Thanks, everyone.

The Nissan part group for the battery is a 24C. Not sure exactly what it means, but it was a nearly dead-nuts fit into the battery frame. I'd guess it's a one-size-fits-many part number which is why they called it a group. Take the frame with you just in case. The battery was $104 after tax, plus a $12 core. p.s. - would Y'all mind posting a picture of an Optima red-top mounted with the stock battery frame? I couldn't see how it would work with the few Optimas the parts stores had, but maybe they just didn't have the specific part number for our cars. The advantage of a sealed battery would definitely be nice.