ronroyboy

The first time it happened when the valves hit the pistons I didn't check to see how far the chain was off. The second time It was one link off. The third time I havent tore into into it yet. I did replace the complete timing set with tensioner and guides. I also replaced the head with one from a salvage yard and installed new rings and bearings since the motor was out. I thought it might be easier to replace head and timing with engine on stand. All three times it happend it did it as I was starting the car. the car was running perfect when I parked it last night and the problem came back this morning as soon as i turned the key. that is the same thing that happened the first and second time. maybe a tight sticking valve preventing the cam from turning? but on two heads. Also when installing the crank gear it just slides onto the crank. I beleive the haynes manual said to use a puller. I am thinking about buying a rebuilt head before doing anything else but I will be sick if I put on a $450 head and the chain jumps again and bends the valves. There was no signs of damage to the original chain. The original guides did have a little wear. The new guide on the tensioner side had two sets of holes the first time is used the one that would make the chain less tight the second time I used the other hole that held more pressure on the chain. I think the original guide only had one hole.

I have a 77 280z all stock original 78000 miles that jumped the timing chain bending the valves. I replaced the head and timing chain and it did it again but luckly the valves didn't hit the pistons this time. I reset the timing chain and tightened the tensioners and it ran perfect. This morning I went to start it and it turned over very fast like it did it a third time. Can anyone give any suggestions what I am doing wrong? maybe a cheap ebay timing set that I used?

I had the same problem. I unpluged the light cleaned the connections on the pigtail and the light worked fine.

Thanks for the help guys. I will let you know how it goes.

Hi maybe someone can help me. I have a 77 280z with a 4 speed. The local pick a part is having a half off sale this weekend and I am planning on getting a five speed out of an 82 zx. what parts beside the trans do I need to get off the parts car for the swap?

I had the same problem I removed the hose feeding the pump and no gas was coming out to prime the pump. I added more gas to the tank and fuel came out of the hose and the pump was able. to prime. I also added a clear filter between the tank and pump it works fine I don't know if the pressure is high on the suction side? but the fram g3 filter is working and holding up fine.

put 12 volts to your bcdd wire see if it the idle goes down.

I had same problem . I istalled a new pump, pressure regulator, fuel injector seals, fuel filter, hoses. but it was a dirty screen in the new fuel pump. Had the tank cleaned and lined at radiador shop and installed inline filter between pump and tank. Runs like new again.

Engine stalls when accelerating. Fuel pressure is 25psi and drops to 20 when accelerating. I believe it should be around 36psi. Just installed a new pressure regulator and fuel filter still 25psi. I noticed when I remove the vacuum hose from the regulator the pressure goes to 36psi also there seems to be no vacuum suction on the hose going to the egr valve or the distributor. pleas help.

I had the same problem on my 77 280z. it was the bccd