zmadnez

That's the exact cap that I have on mine. I bought the cap in a pack with other caps of various sizes from a local auto part shop (Kragen Auto). I believe you can get them through any auto parts stores.

Thanks for all the excellent advice on the high rpm issue. I'll try them this weekend and report my findings.

Installed the carbs with the euro tube this weekend per the ZTherapy instruction and vid. and the idle is about 2k rpm. Adjusted the idle screw on the carbs to close the butterfly valve to lower the rpm and it didn't lower the rpm. I am thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere in the intake. If it is a vacuum leak, what's the best way to isolate the leak?

Any suggestion where to get a 2010 calendar with various model Zeds? Hard copy is preferred but also interested in soft copy to load on my PC.

My '70 has two keys: one for the door, hatch and glove compartment and the other is for the ignition. Does anyone know were I can have another set made or a pair of blank keys?

If you're referring to the extra thick washers as spacers; yes I did use them on the bolts that overlaps the intake manifold and header.

I use the Manifold nuts and bolt kit @ MSA ($16.95) and lots of anti-cease silver stuff. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-8080

Just curious to see how many of you installed the ZTherapy carbs, strait out of the box, and got it running without tweeking the settings? I know that every application is different and requires some adjustments after installation but just wondering if the car fired up without any adjustments.

Thanks Arne. Yup, the timing is already advanced.

I just removed the smog stuff (pump, all the stuff on the balance tube, air galley and replace the exhaust manifold with headers) on a stock '70 S30 motor. Do I need to change any of the settings on the carb or timing after eliminating the smog stuff?

Thanks for the info Kenny! I may just keep the header uncoated and unwrapped. Zedyone_kenobi, I noticed that your header has the plug screwed into where the air galley tube connects to. Did you have to use a sealer to prevent exhaust leaks or the plug coming undone?

One of my concern in replacing the stock iron exhaust manifold with a uninsulated header is the increase of heat that may effect the carburation. Did you encounter any issue with excessive heat on your setup, assuming your header is not insulated?

Zedyone_kenobi, I am just a few steps ahead of you in the overhaul of the intake and exhaust with ZT carbs. The final upgrade will be replacing the intake with a polished intake, with ZT Euro Tube and replace the stock manifold with Jim Cook 3 to 2 headers. I am still debating if I should cap off the water/coolant line running through the intake manifold. Here in So Cal, we don't get the bone chilling weather that warrants the intake to be pre-warmed by the coolant going through the manifold. Today it was a dismantling day. The PB-Blaster week of soaking on those rusted bolts really did the job in loosening up the bolts = "no broken bolts". Easily and gently unscrewed the bolts from the heads and they all came off without a hitch. Installed the new intake/exhaust bolt & nut kit from MSA with plenty of the high-temp anti-seize stuff. Also removed, along with all those twisted smog air hoses, is the boat anchor of an air pump and bracket. Taking the smog pump and bracket took more effort then removing the intake and exhaust due to the tight spaces and the zillions of air tubes cluttering the back of the pump. I ran out of time to undo the rusted 2.5 inch pipes and muffler, it'll be next weekend's job along with installing the headers, intake manifold (assuming it will be delivered before the weekend). More adventure to come.

Andy, thanks for the reply. I should have the intake, balance tube and carbs installed in a few weeks. I'll post the result.

Can I use an E48 balance tube on an E88 intake? If so, is it a direct bolt on or does it need an adapter.

I called other auto parts store outside of my area and discovered Kragen had an Autolite starter. It looked a lot like the Beck-Arnley starter on the picture. Has a lifetime warranty and it's $30, starter and solenoid. Installed it and it worked like a champ. Thanks for the recommendations.

Went on a 17 mile short drive on the '70 240 today and after my first stop it wouldn't start. It clicked when the ignition is turned on. All connection to and from the battery & ground is tight and the battery is fully charged (green light on the trickle charge before unhooking it for the drive). When the ignition is turned and it kept clicking, smoke started to emit from the solenoid. Unsure if it is a bad solenoid or starter. Should I replace both the solenoid and starter or just the solenoid? The solenoid alone costs $89 @ MSA and a rebuild starter is around $70. I saw several posts about where places that may have the starter in stock but none of the auto stores in my area carry them. I'll have to bite the bullet and go to MSA, if they have them in stock. I don't recall replacing when the starter and solenoid was replaced in 15+ years. Suggestions... Recommendations???