tlorber

I've never seen an accounting for tranny number on a Z. I'm not saying the trannys don't have an ID#, just that it is not indicated on the ID plate, as you can see in the picture. Since these cars are unibody, "shell" and "frame" are all one piece. Also, the sheet metal on these cars is VERY thin, so you need to get that girl off the hood/fender now!

Looking at the condition of those wheels, and depending upon how shiny you want them, you will probably need to wet sand them (800 grit, possibly courser) and then buff with a drill mounted wheel and some rouge-then hit with mothers. It is a lot of work but if you really like the wheels you can get them to clean up nicely.

Every Z can be a "numbers matching" car if one is so inclined. When I bought my 240, I was actually looking for one that had an L28, so that I did not have to do the swap myself. I later added an '82 5 speed and other bolt ons from ZX's to modernize the car. These cars just do not have the resale value of, say, an old 911 so you may as well make the car as you want it to be. Now, throwing in a V8-that's another story. By the way, what ever happened to that OJ guy?

I've used dental floss between the emblem and the body. Use sharp, jerky movements to pull the emblem off.

If the plan is to swap back after the track day or fun run I wouldn't bother. However if you plan on keeping the other motor in, it is not a terrible job-depending upon how much smog/ac/etc equipment you have on.

Any chance you could post video/audio of the car running?

Go baby Go! What's up with that side view mirror though?

I came across a guy a couple of months ago around the corner from my shop who does custom builds for people-mostly Japanese cars but there were a few Opels there as well. He hand builds headers and he showed me the base flange he uses for the L6 as compared to an MSA flange (which I have on my car). They weren't even close. His lined up with the intake and exhaust ports perfectly, and the thickness was the same as the intake manifolds. I don't know what the pricing is, and the guy just had back surgery but if y'all care I can ask him when he gets back in.

Yes, Those are to enable you to adjust camber. See the way the hole is offset? By rotating the bushing you push the LCA in or out. Car is coming along nicely-and quickly. Fire her up and get her on the road.

Will, I'd guess it's either electrical or fuel. If the car has been sitting for a while, as you state, you might want to check the fuel filter and the banjo screens at the carbs. If the is junk in the lines, you may be starving the motor at higher rpm's. If all fuel issues are good, you should check timing and advance of the distributor (assuming plug wires and firing order are all correct).

"Nutritional" huh? That's what I always tell my wife, but she rarely believes it.

Is it just me, or does that bottle look like some kind of marital aid?

I agree with the statement above. Use a tranny from a 80-83 ZX. I personally think the lime green is one of the best colors for a 240, and if mine had been that color originally, I would have kept it that color. Not for value purposes, just for aesthetics.

As stated above, you need to have it milled. Not shaved but milled to get a completely flat surface. If you have a concern about thickness you can get a thicker head gasket. You should mic the existing thickness and compare it to new condition. Keep in mind that these heads are not particularly rare or expensive (I have 3 of them at my warehouse + one on a spare motor. If yours is over cut you could probably buy one for $60.00 and then have the machine work done.

Yeah, but so can a $2.00 crack whore.

EDIT: I do see tlorber's post is not worded very well and I'm not sure which he means, VIN or price. Yes, I was referring to VIN. The only VINs I've seen recently that are lower than #1000 have been non rolling tubs. I came across (I believe) #606 last year that was a tub with minimal rust. The owner was going to finish stripping parts and then sell it off as a resto candidate.

I agree. How often is it that you come across one below 1000 that is not a shell? It is, however, a bit suspect that there are not more pictures. Hopefully it is clean and will go to a good home.

Good luck on the project. Be sure Not to throw out the roadster tranny. You can get like $6-700 for it if it is functional.

Those "two sided screens" are going to make it much more difficult to view porn in the office.

Please hold on to the front bumper and rubber spacers that go between the bumper and the body. I do not need them but I'm sure somebody can use them since they were a one year only part.

Believe it or not, that fender is probably repairable. I would plan on replacing the crossmember if you want the car to align properly.

I have a fairly late 240 ( mfg date 7/ '73 ) and it has the thin bumper, albeit with the 2" filler since it sticks beyond the hood. There are no pneumatic mounts on it.

Walter, If you have a hard time finding one, I have one at my shop. I'm not sure of the year, but I know it is NOT from a Series 1.

Carl, those blocks will each hold a six pack nicely if you fill the bottom of the bores. Just gotta be creative.

If you can't get the solder iron hot enough, you can heat up a piece of steel with a propane or map gas torch, then heat the body metal and melt the solder with it.