tlorber

$4,865.00

Personally, I like the "before" picture better. I did the same thing almost exactly a year ago- in your general area I might add. Just got the car done and I wish I had that year of my life back. Hopefully the core support and the frame are ok. The other items just bolt ons, but finding a good hood, headlight buckets and bumper parts may take some doing. Then you need to match paint. Keep an eye on Craigslist and if you see something in the LA area let me know and I'll help if I can. I agree with the comment above that I'd get my kid a safer car to use as a driver.

Yeah, a center force pressure plate will be stiff and will probably give your left leg more of a workout than you want for a street car.

If you have time, I would throw the console into water and leave for a while. This will not adversely affect the fiberglass but may soften the paint enough to either peel or scrub it off.

I'm not understanding why you need the resistor. I thought the purpose of it was so that the points don't get fried. Since you are no longer running points this should not be an issue.

Do you have a shroud around the fan? This ensures that air is being pulled through the radiator rather than from around it.

From what recall, the headliners are installed with the front windshield removed. Is that the case?

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_part_and_overhaul_kits/syncro_ring_kits_manual_transmission.html

The fender and lower valence will tap out if you're so inclined. I'd say the only parts that are beyond repair are the hood and turn signal.

Has anyone ever put in some kind of cabin filter? Either in this duct or anywhere else in the plenum?

Take the "2" back off. $950 seems about right.

I NEVER forget how things go together-NEVER. Fortunately I took this when I tore things apart.

To echo Clayton's comment, I had bought door handles from Black Dragon (probably the same supplier as MSA's) and had the same fitment issue. Rather than filing the doors, I pounded the rivets on the door handle a bit flatter, since they were the hang up point. I just put that into the "some assembly required" category. Other than that they seem like a nice product.

That picture of the strut bar is a testimonial to the forces endured in the collision(s). So glad to hear that you are ok. I know the frustration you must feel after all the work- believe me I know. However, you WILL be driving one again.

We do have plenty of 240's out this way that you could get into for 5k or less. One comment on steering-if you ditch the stock boat steering wheel (ahoy matey) and put one on that is more suitable for performance driving, you'll be amazed at the difference in response.

I think what John is getting at is that one spacer would be more stable than 4 independent stacks of, say 5 or 6washers each. These are brake rotors that undergoing a lot of rotational and lateral forces, not to mention vibration and enormous heat cycling. The fewer moving parts the better.

I polished the stainless on a buffing wheel when I had them off the car. Took about 10 minutes per side and they look like new chrome.

Here is one site that has them, along with other parts for the conversion http://silverminemotors.com/Spacer-Spacer.htm Motorsport sells them as an entire package but does not show them independently on their site. You might want to call and ask. Also note that this may prompt you to need a larger master cylinder due to the greater volume of fluid required by the calipers

From what I have read there are 2 versions-one that fits the stock rotors and the other fits vented rotors from a 300 Z non turbo. The latter one requires a shim to offset the rotor, but it should NOT involve changing to 5 lug (rotors and hubs are 2 different things).

The title of your thread is rather amusing. When I first bought my car, I was down at MSA and they guy behind the counter told me he no longer owned a "Z". When I asked why, he said "hey, it's a Z, and I'd like to buy a house some day.". At the time, I didn't really know what he meant. As far as the door panels, I'd say that if your vinyl is ok, there is usually a way to salvage the backing.

They are probably new posters because the discoveries were the impetus to join, so that in and of itself should not be cause for disbelief. Hey, if the VIN says "1611" then that should be what it is (unless a digit is covered up). It would be too bad to just part the car out, but as we all know, the finished product will be worth about 89% of what it takes to get it there.

I believe the ignition module itself has the "E12-80" cast into the plastic.

I've found that the hazard switch can mess with things. You might try turning it on and off a few times to see if that helps.

Thanks. I just ordered the TC Rods and LCA's from TTT, (how's that for abbreviations) since my caster was not equal for the front wheels and I did not want the control arms to bind. I'll report back once they are installed.

K, thanks.