tlorber

Kully, how do you compensate for caster in the LCA bushing? Do you just force the control arm forward with the TC rod, or do you somehow shim the bushing?

Are you running the original flat tops, or have they been swapped out with round tops?

It is clipped on. You need to pull up on it from one of the ends with a sharp, jerky motion. The window needs to be all the way down. Also, be careful that the roller near the front (which guides the window) does not fall into the door.

Hagdod, I wouldn't worry about originality issues when it comes to things like tranny and carbs. You can always reverse them if you ever want to-which you won't. You'll also find that things like an electronic dizzy and internal regulated alternator from zx's are great upgrades. These are all written up extensively on this site If you are auto crossing and want to lose a few pounds you might want to put on some 240 bumpers as well

In my opinion, $1,500.00 for a rolling shell sounds a bit high-especially for a '75. By way of example I bought a '73 last year (out here in Los Angeles) for $200.00. It has a good motor and tranny (gutted interior) and a decent body on which the floor pans were replaced. I pulled off some parts I need that would have cost me around $800.00 retail, and I'm reselling the car to a guy for $300.00. I could get more for the parts, but the buyer will put the car back together and drive it, so that's worth something. As far as the motor goes, I don't think I'd put a 4 cylinder motor into a car that will be driven on the street. Not sure there would be enough torque for stop and go driving. We may be spoiled out this way, but there are many options that would require less money and effort to arrive at a complete project.

I got mine at drivetrain.com. Surprisingly, the price is up about $35.00 from last year. Still well worth it.

I'm not trying to start anything here, but is there any way you can put on some round tops and an old balance tube and ditch the egr, or do you need it to pass smog up there? The more you can simplify the system the better. Z therapy is not that far away.

I think that owner is back on the crack pipe-especially for a post smog car. Julio, if your land is in the bay you'll have a better chance of getting the 2 mil. That's how Emeryville was built.

Rotas seem like a good deal. I had planned to buy 16's but then got some 15" eagle alloys off a parts car. I think the 16's will cause a stiffer ride. If you will be only on smooth roads that is ok. However if it is a driver you might want to consider everyday conditions. I'm saying that not just for the feel but for the impact on a 40 year old under engineered unibody

Just thought I'd punctuate this thread with some final pics, (not meaning to respond to my own thread but I know we all love pictures;)

Off. And the mud flaps need to be on if you want to protect the paint. They are easily removable (10 screws total) and with the wider wheels/tires that most of us are running the capacity for throwing gravel is increased.

Yeah I vote crush washer too. Were there little grooves in them or were they smooth?

So is there no way to fit in a bushing at least on the front side of the body with the TTT rod?

I'm 46 years old. Throughout my life I have rebuilt numerous motors but whenever I saw the exploded diagram of a tranny I was intimidated. Well last year as a goal I decided I was going to do it-kind of a bucket list item (I know, I need a life). I bought 5 speed out of a ZX and studied the diagram a number of times. This job is definitely easier when there is a functional tranny in the car and no time pressure to get it done. I bought the rebuild kit online from a site recommended on this site (have to get ithe name when I'm back at the office) and all the appropriate parts were there. To me the main issue was to have a couple dowels on which to place the parts in the correct order as they came off the transmission. Got it done,got it in, and I'm happy with the results, and saved around $500.00.

I know that a '77 fender will go on a '73 because I did it. There are was an extra bracked on the inside of the fender, toward the front. I'm not sure what it was for but it came off at a right angle to the fender and had a nut welded onto it. As far as thickness, its a bit scary that the metal is so thin that undercoating can actually stiffin it! I know the sheet metal on my Z is significantly thinner than that on my roadster.

I spoke with the Sylmar guy yesterday and he told me the brown one has salvaged title-maybe in response to your reaction. He did not disclose quite as many defects as you did. I just saw this one on Craigslist in Valencia. If you talk to him and it sounds interesting I can pre-screen it for you. I'm about 20 miles from there. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/2866744848.html

That seems like a pretty cool product. Just to be able to remove the center console without dealing with the cable is a great thing.

Yeah, I say check your main fuel filter, and banjo bolt screens at the fuel bowls.

Techno Toy Tuning makes an adjustable TC Rod, which has a true ball joint instead of a crummy bushing on which to pivot. I do not have it but I probably will at some point. This, in conjunction with changing the thickness or reversing the placement of the LCA bushings could provide some castor adjustment. http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=668

If you use a zx 5 speed and stay with an R180 diff (3.7,3.9 or 4.11) it will be a simple swap. Just make sure you keep the clutch fork, pressure plate and throwout bearing collar as a unit. You will also need to swap out the speedo drive gear, but that will not effect performance.

I put air horns on a Supra I once had. They were quite loud! As stated above, "velocity stacks" are designed to align air flow when it is moving at a higher volume and speed. Is your choke working properly?

I saw an add on Craigslist last week for a '73 in the south bay. It looked to be in good shape, but due to a salvage title he was only asking around $1,800.00. Since it is not that far you might want to check it out.

That thing sounds pretty throaty for what must be a tiny speaker.

I have the same issue and have replaced front diff mount and all bushings and have torqued everything-still have the clunk. I had the car on a rack, put the parking brake on and kept putting it into gear while a friend (a competent mechanic) listened and watched. He thought the movement was coming from within the strut canister. I have tightened then gland nuts to no avail. I probably need a shim on the strut but I am not yet in the mood to pull everything apart just yet.

I have a bottle of Johnny blue on the shelf of my bar. It may become cost effective to use it if prices keep on running. More to the point, I have dished pistons and usually run 89 octane. I am looking forward to seeing if my new vacuum advance has any impact on performance.