tlorber

Can you explain what this is used for on the tranny? I rebuilt mine and remember using a bfh and some pieces of pipe and got the job done. A brass drift and a gear puller--those are a different story.

I forgot to mention that I tried tape as well on the test panel. The problem I had with my tape is that the aluminum was so soft that when it got scraped (by fingernail) it left marks.

Almost ready for the street. Just waiting for a new vacuum advance and need to get the headlight buckets on, then she's drivable.

I thought I'd post a follow up here. On a test panel, I tried 2 different silver rattle cans that I had at the shop. I also bought some chrome adhesive pinstriping, since I couldn't find any mylar at the hobby shop, and finally I bought some Duplicolor Instant Chrome. The pinstriping was definitely the most chrome looking, but I couldn't get it to stick to the tight curve of the plastic bead, so I ended up using the Duplicolor. While it is by no means mistakeable for chrome (i.e you will not be spraying it on a flat surface and then using it for shaving in the morning) it has a much higher reflectivity than either of the silver paints. I would say it has 70%-80% of the reflection/brilliance of chrome. The final door panel is shown below. Hope this helps someone else down the road.

That shim is to limit end play. You definitely need to put it back on.

I always thought that hand throttle was a low tech cruise control.

His post implies that he is converting from an automatic to a manual. The automatics have torque convertor, which needs to be replaced with a flywheel. I have an extra motor laying around with the same issue.

Did any of you catch the episode of Archer tonight? Some cool old Japanese cars, including a Z-which ended up over a cliff. Fortunately it's an animated show.

There was that one at JCCS a couple years ago that was heavily slammed. It was written up in some publication.

Make sure you shake the input shaft, output shaft (and counter shaft if you open it up) in order to see if the bearing races are still tight. If not, they will eventually disintegrate, shedding pieces into the tranny and allowing more slop.

http://www.nhspeedometer.com/

I have some pristine seats out of a '71 if you're interested.

I have read here that the fuel pump will kick on for a bit, but if positive feedback is not received (e.g. Oil pressure pumped up) the fuel pump will kick back off to prevent running when the motor is off. Maybe check your oil pressure sensor connections?

You might want to look into having the guts replaced with new electronics. I wasn't crazy about dropping $170.00 into it, but the new parts are much more accurate, there is no needle bouncing, and they accept wave form signals from all different forms of ignition/distributors. Prior to having mine rebuilt I had opened it up to verify functionality of all the resistors (13 or so IIRC) and still couldn't get it accurate. Since tach temp and oil are the most crucial gauges to preserving the motor it is money well spent.

I have tokiko blues and Eibachs on my '73 and I don't feel that it is too stiff. However I am running 15" wheels so the extra sidewalls probably gives me more cushion. If the clunk you describe is from the rear end, you will need to go thru the drivetrain-namely the front differential mount, but also the mustache bar connections and rear struts as well. You should also check out your suspension bushings to see if they have ever been replaced. If not, you'll have a lot of slop at each pivot point. You might as well address this while you are working on springs so that you don't need to duplicate labor. There are a ton of writeups on this site describing all the above.

Cesar, I have a friend that may be coming from San Carlos to LA in a week or so with a trailer. He may be able to hook you up with a tow. Let me know if you'd be interested.

On my '73, in putting my left rear side lamp (running lamp) back on, I noticed 2 extra wires in the same area. One is white and the other is white with a black stripe. I can't remember which was male and female, but does anyone know what they were provisioned for? I was not able to see anything on the wiring diagram, but the wires are definitely part of the original harness. Thanks.

Slide the seat forward to get to the rear bolts, and do the converse for the fronts. I like using a ratcheting wrench to tighten or loosen more quickly.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I will be doing a pattern similar to Julios but with a burgundy vinyl in the insets. Eventually I will install 300 ZX seats once they are painted 2 tone to match.

Does any one have a picture of a door panel and the piece to the rear of it, (the piece that is clipped to the dog leg?) Ideally I would like to dee the two together without a seat in the car, but I'll take what I can get. I'm going to repaint the panels 2 tone and I need to figure out where the boundaries should be for each color. Also, any new ideas for the chrome strips in the door panels? One of the posts I read said to use a 3/8" adhesive strip from an auto parts store. I was only able to locate 1/4 ", which is not wide enough. Thanks.

I'm sure that when Bruce wakes up he'll chime in. SU's licensed their design out to different manufacturers. Hitachi was one (for Datsuns) and I know that Stromberg was another on European cars. The designs were slightly different but the principle was the same. Even within Hitachi SU's I have seen different castings on the throttle bodies. Most have letter stamped on them ("ISO" I think) and some do not. By your description it sounds like yours were actually manufactured by the SKinner's Union company.

Last night I saw a guy I know putting new Dunlop 195 60 14's on his Miata. I forget the model, but they were a sticky street tire that he is using for autcross. He said they were about $100.00 each. For me that would be kind of pricey for a daily driver set, but he bought a separate set of wheels for them just for autocrossing.

"Sat on the front bumper and enjoyed the moment." See, there was a good reason for the large bumpers afterall.

While it has taken 5 weeks longer than I was originally told, I received a message from the Body Shop guy that I have to get the car out of his shop this weekend because he needs the space. He shot and cleared it yesterday and will be buffing it out Tomorrow. Before Clear After Clear The car looks a bit gold due to the lighting, but it is actually silver. I am looking forward to getting it back in the shop and putting parts back on.