tlorber

http://www.datsunparts.com/search.cgi Item 2323 in the search box when you scroll down the page. Both right and left are flat. The convex version referenced on that same page is not happening. If you want a convex one for the passenger's side you'll need to take one off a car at the wrecking yard, cut it to size and stick it on top of the flat mirror.

Sblake, that Datsunparts is a different guy (I think he is Datsunparts LLC and is out your way). The guy I'm talking about sells roadster parts out my way. He sources OEM and aftermarket parts-some of which are for the Z

The guy at Datsunparts.com is having duplicates of the originals made for the right side. These will, however be flat and not convex. You can take a slightly convex mirror from the wrecking yard, cut it to shape and silicone it to the flat mirror. This gives you a vintage look with the functionality of a modern mirror.

What car do you need it for?

Looks like the batch of 4 is $58.00. Harbor freight has their aluminum race jack on sale for $70.00. It has a much greater height range than regular floor jacks.

Targa California. Runs in April...about $200.00. Home base is Paso Robles. My car should be done by then and this time I'll try to keep it on the road. It would be worth the drive down for you.

I think the age of the paint matters as well. I have bought a can that was thick and did not flow, and I have bought one that was thinner and laid down much better. In any case, you are better with the smaller cans. A one gallon would dry up on you before you could use the entire can and you are not supposed to thin POR 15.

If the two are to be compared, you have to stop at the long hoods-74? Chrome bumper,no smog. I hate to say it but I think one of these will be in my future. I was recently reading about the boxer motor and they are apparently perfectly balanced due to the opposition of the pistons. They are also much more robustly built. Due to camming and compression, a more or less stock 2.7 kicks out around 210 hp and has big rotors all the away around. You can get a Z there with some modification and probably for fewer dollars. Overall the Z is less temperamental. Also, if you haven't driven a rear motor car, you'd better be prepared. They are great for oversteer but you had better know that it is coming. 914/6's or Boxters are much more predictable, but don't look as nice. 911's were hand made up to a point. I was told that 912's were 911 bodies that did not pass inspection at the factory (sorry) and were then mated to 4 cylinder motors. Datsun parts are cheap, cheap, cheap compared to those of Porsches, which has helped keep me in this world, 'cause I'm the same way. Also, in this part of the world, Z's are far less common.

OK, so he's not just a Datsun guy...he's also about self reliance. Excuse the language (I just learned the word a$$douche) but some of you might find this entertaining.

I think that's because now, enough time has passed and it no longer "too soon."

So I took my car to the body shop last week. Body/Paint guy is telling me it should be ready the first week of December. Thanks to some on this site I will be going with 744 Brillian Silver.

I think 195's are a bit narrow for 7" rims, which will take up to 215's with no problem. You might want to try and find some 15x7's out there with some usable rubber left on them. You'd probably find some for the cost of a new set of tires.

There should be 2 metal tabs welded to the body where the rear of the mats rest (just under the front of the seat) which go through slots in the mats. Then there are snaps on the firewall that correspond to snaps which should be installed in the mats. These are what keep the mats anchored.

Have you tried playing with the choke when the car is in that rpm range? Might be interesting to see (on the fly) if the problem gets any better or worse. Also, it was stated above that the fuel lines (tubes) between float bowl and jet can kink. When I had my roadster carbs rebuilt, I noticed that the new tubes kinked a bit-perhaps due to a thinner wall? I put the old ones on and have not had any problems.

I used Duplicolor HWP 102 Graphite (which is a wheel paint). It came out very nice but I don't have the original color to compare to.

'cause there is a Z in them all?

Ahh, customer service at its finest.

I see neglected Z's around here go for $200-$300.00. These tend to be cars that the owner have no interest in and just want them gone.

I agree with what is stated above-with one corollary: While I hate to help the Chinese economy, there are certain tools that Harbor Freight is good for. Those would be tools that you use infrequently and would not otherwise buy due to their price. An example is my vernier caliper. I don't use it enough to justify paying $60.00. but for $14.99 it was worth it and its nice to have when needed.

Thanks Mitchell. Looks nice-is that wheel 13"?

Mitchell, Off topic here, but can you show a pic of your steering wheel? I'm trying to decide what to replace mine with. Thanks.

I recently came across a guy down here (Van Nuys near Los Angeles) that has a bunch of Z's. I'm sure he would have a cross member and I know he has control arms. Let me know if you want me to ask him.

I used rivets on mine as well. The only things I would add are: 1)try to move the hairs from beneath the rivet head so that there will be more of them to cover over it and 2) if the head sticks up to much you may want to burnish it down with a dremmel. I only wish a solution for the squeegee side were as simple.

Come on Bruce! If you had a 36 year old, you'd be drivin' her any which way you could! (sorry, I couldn't resist).

Before pulling the dizzy, you might just swap the plug wires 180*. I had a mechanical dizzy in my '73 that ran fine. When I put the '82 electronic dizzy in I had horrible backfires out the rear and carbs. Car would not run. Keep in mind, there is only one way that the distributor will engage when installed. So I rotated the wires 180* out of phase and the car runs awesome. Can't explain it just yet-I never took the time to see why the distributor is out of phase with the motor-but it is.