tlorber

You might want to check out the Hybrid Z site, but if you are going to drop a V8 in, you'll probably need to stiffen up the body to accommodate the torque.

Nice car. I agree though that if you are going to get it painted, find a 240 hood and have everything shot at the same time.

Well, I was just about finished with my Z, but that was last week. On Thursday had an encounter with a rack of mailboxes. When I later settled up with the owner he told me that the support was built out of railroad ties. I hit 2 supports directly with the front end. One thing that never ceases to amaze me about Datsuns is the pounding they can take and still get you home. I've never crashed one but I've driven them pretty hard. So with some dinging (4lb sledge) I was able to get a different radiator back in (whole story behind that acquisition) and drive the car from Paso Robles to LA yesterday. Consequently, I am currently looking for a '73 rolling shell with a good front end in the So Cal area. If anyone knows of one or has one I would like to speak with you. If anyone wants to see the carnage let me know and I'll try to post. It's shocking but at least you know the story ended ok. Almost as disappointing is the roads and views I missed out on Day 2. That has been my favorite day in the past 2 years' runs. If you want to see pics and descriptions you can to the Bring a Trailer site here. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/04/09/2011-targa-california-heaven-and-hail/ I was surprised to see the changes to the site, and I'm sure once I've figured it out it will be a splendid upgrade. Thanks to those of you that keep this going. Todd

I'm going to take the tube/corrigated hose that goes from the airbox to the exhaust manifold area (which preheats the air in the winter) and run it forward through the radiator support where there is already a hole. I happen to have a spare flange and funnel shaped piece from part of the exhaust system that will fit the hose perfectly. This will be bolted to the radiator support. This will allow cold air from the front, but utilize the stock filter.

As a general rule, I'd say that for a unibody car welding is a much stronger solution than riveting. You can still lap weld around perimeter of the patch piece. It will also look better when you are finished if you weld and grind rather than having rivets everywhere.

So I was in the garage doing some prep work on my car last week for a 3 day run coming up later this week and we had just come off a couple 98* days here. And I got to thinking-my car does not tend to run hot but just in case, it would be nice to have a recovery tank. So with a little dinging, a screw, nut and a hose clamp I now have a 22 oz. non OEM but country correct reservoir. I don't think this will constitute an open container.

Hey, I don't want to get embroiled in political discussion here, and I have no direct contact with, nor relatives in the military, but I can't imagine anyone would say that soldiers are overpaid. By the way, while driving here in Los Angeles avoiding potholes has become a full time task. I vote prison labor.

Wiring problems aside, while you are pulling the contacts apart, you should be spraying them with contact cleaner before reconnecting them. This will remove the oxidation and some of the resistance. A slight voltage drop at each connection can add up to quite a bit at the end of the line. Generally with electrical, you have to go bit by bit to rule out the good areas in order to isolate the problems.

Hey, while we're on the subject, should the brakes be bled with the motor off, or with the vacuum assist operating?

What is that silver car in the background?

I went through the hassle of buying and milling some brass bushings. Then I found out that they are sold on ebay for around $13.00. I would definitely go with brass over stock plastic.

And she also knows that you are a good listener!

I say build as high as you reasonably can without breaking the bank-10' below truss height is NOT high enough. As stated, you may want to have an above ground lift at some point. You can always drop a ceiling grid if you need to climate control the space. Clear span is always better, and drive through access is awesome. Also plan on all potential sewer provisions before you pour a slab. Installing later is a huge PITA. Finally, I am a huge fan of skylights. Everything else (electrical/compressed air distribution, etc.) can be done later. Make sure there is enough space around the pool table so that the cues don't hit the walls.

Steve, you might be able to tweak your cable adjustment to change the nozzle movement with respect to the idle position of the butterfly. As stated above, I think it is good that you are not leaning out at high rpms, which is a bit more typical with SU's. On my roadster, I have to compromise a fat idle so that I don't get too lean-this could be adjusted with different needles. There is a huge number of needle profiles, and I remember reading here about someone that had a loaner program so that you could try the different profiles until you found the ones you like.

Can you please post a pic of the part you are talking about?

I did find on line that the maker of the body kit was called Nalle. He only made about 6 of these sometime in the 80's and apparently that is all that exist.

I think he is implying that the car is just too nice to risk dinging up on a track. Personally, with salvaged title I wouldn't worry about it.

Does anyone know what kind of body kit the orange and blue car has? I think this looks pretty cool.

"Another trip up the 101?" It can't be more than 12 miles from you! I'm pretty sure you'll make it.

If it's dry I'll plan on being there. Michael, hope to see you.

I go fity fity 3 in 1 oil and ATF.

Does anyone know how 8" wheels with +10 offset compare to 7" wheels with zero offset in terms of the outside profile? Mathematically it seems like they would land in about the same spot.

If you're working with ABS I have found that the combination of ABS glue (as stated above) along with fiberglass fabric works extremely well for repairs. I've done this on the interior panels, ignition switch housing, and center console and none of them have come apart.

Jim Altman, that was well stated. Sure, I'd like my car to be worth more, but the reality is that I bought it [to DRIVE it by the way, not just to wax it and stare at it] precisely because I didn't want to spend a ton of money on it-neither for the acquisition nor for parts. If I'd wanted to pay more I'd have bought a pre '75 911. Incindentally there are WAY more 911's around here than old Z's so that affected my decision as well. If these cars cost more, you know the suppliers would charge more. Until rust and wreckage get the numbers down lower, we'll just have to look at these cars as fun, reliable, good looking hobbies that we enjoy working on and driving.

So, am I a bad guy for putting a booster seat in my Z and driving my kids?(one at a time of course). I know they love being in the Z. These cars need to be driven, and driven hard. They will take it happily and want more. I'm doing around 2,000/year on the Z, and hope to do more when I have finished the car.