tlorber

Jimmy, If that's your wife in your avatar, I think I'd keep the car red.

Off topic here, Andy but, what size/offset wheels are you running?

Are you saying that the fuel came out of the pipe where the pump hose went in, or somewhere else? On my '73 the pipe is larger than those on newer cars and does not seal real well at the hose. I have to manually hold the hose pressed to the pipe until the pump first kicks off (i.e. I don't click the handle down for automatic feed).

Looking forward to the pics. I've been cleaning portions of mine as I have time. Oven cleaner works really well to remove the grime and get the paint back. Obviously it won't fix scratches though.

A tire distributor that I spoke with a couple weeks ago said that over time, as tires are stored [on the car] under pressure, air can make its way from the inner "bladder" through some of the plies and facilitates delamination. While age of any type is not good for tires, storing them at a lower pressure when mounted on the wheel will help to slow this process down.

Sidewall stiffness is also a big issue, since the sidewalls are the first point of shock absorption in the system. Not sure of your wheel size but, as an example if you are running 16's, you could try going to 15's with a taller tire or softer sidewall.

Interesting. I had a chance to get decent pair of 911 seats for cheap, but I measured them at about 2" wider than stock. I didn't think they would fit. Let us know if you find out for sure what car they were out of.

What year RX7 should the fuel pump come from?

So, Mike, yours must be getting near the end of the run. Does anyone know what the HIGHEST VIN is for a 240?

I just went through a header/exhaust upgrade-partly to improve the flow and partly to clean up the engine bay. I cut portions of my balance tube off and ground down the excess bosses to remove unnecessary clutter. The only vacuum ports now used are for the crankcase vent and the power steering. Being in Los Angeles I don't need the intake heating so I removed the water lines-as stated above, these are independent of the smog equipment.

Cam, I'd be curious about your VIN as well. Mine is a 7/73 and I'm 169,721. I bought it here in So Cal. As far as valuation, the car will be worth $2,000-$4,000 LESS than you have into it by the time you're finished with it-unless inflation really kicks in.

This is what I would like to do with my interior some day-My Exterior is a dark silver. I think this shot is of a BMW.

I will be getting Rota RB's at some point as well. Do any of you guys know if 16 x 8's can be put on the rear without interference issues?

Well, I just got this system (MSA 6 into 1) onto my '73 w/ L28. For any of you considering it, I was actually pretty impressed by the fit. I was concerned based upon comments I'd read that the muffler would be hanging low or wouldn't clear-no such issues. The only conflict I had was that the header was touching one of the [unused] tranny bosses at the bottom of the bell housing-so I shaved the tranny down to give be about 1/4" clearance. I took the car around the block yesterday and for the first time since I've owned the car I got the tach up to 6,000. My old pipe was around 1.5" in diameter, the new pipe is 2.5" or almost 3x the cross sectional area. I'll try to post pics once I get the car up on a rack.

If you have an electric fuel pump, you can put a kill switch in line. The thief may get a couple of blocks before he burns the fuel out of the bowls but that's about it. You can also put a kill switch in line for the dizzy ignitor wire (I did this on my roadster). I do like the trunk monkey though.

I know we're all biased here, but that new Z does nothing for me either. I think it would be cool if they made a retro Z with modern day performance. The new Cameros and Challengers may not be exactly vintage, but they're better to look at than all the other cars out there whose body morph's all converge on the same shape.

If you really want performance, you'll need the "flux capacitor".

Question-Does the quarter panel lose any strength or stiffness by not having the lip bent at 90*?

To tailgate on what Diseazd said, you can use a zip tie to keep the tensioner together while you are bolting it on. Then just cut it off once everything is in place.

I hear what you are saying about the budget-but the long term solution would be to get a true ball joint there like this one. These also let you adjust castor. http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=668 I'm not there yet, but eventually I will be putting in something like this.

Anyone know what seats those are?

Points or not, the advance is still determined by [at least] 3 factors: Static advance (at idle) vacuum advance (depression within the throttle body which is determined how hard you are on the throttle) and centrifugal advance. The latter of these is a balance between the weights wanting to throw outward as revs increase, balanced by the strength of the springs wanting to pull the weights back in. As the weights throw outward they advance the timing of the dizzy beyond where its normal rotation would be.

Thanks, Chris. I did a few searches and did not find what I was looking for. I did read somewhere the 70-72 are the same but that '73 is different.

Its also important at what point in the power band the dizzy is fully spooled up. That's where the weight/spring settings come in. For example, if the centrifugal advance does not fully kick in until 4,000 rpm but you don't drive there much, you won't feel it very often.