tlorber

Does anyone know what the differences are between '71, '72 & '73 grills? Any pics would be helpful. Thanks.

That seems like a pretty clean car - going only by the pics. For everyone's sake (other than the ultimate buyer) let's all hope the seller gets a nice high number.

Should be clear with maybe a pinkish tinge. Over time it discolors like brake fluid, or takes on the color of whatever it is dissolving.

You may want to rotate the front and rear wheels to see if that eliminates anything.

Anti Carpe Diem?

How about this one? http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/1830119368.html

By the way Rob, I have a client in Van Nuys that is does Porsche service and builds cars for racing. If you get me your guy's contact and an inventory of the parts, my guy will probably buy from him. They have a lot of 911's over there that are the same age as our Z's and are just as badly in need of new rubber.

Door window squeegees would be good as well. Simple die, I would imagine. Right now you have to purchase the entire stainless steel moulding just to replace the rubber. At $200.00 for the pair, I'd happily pay $30.00 for the rubber and figure out how to attach them on my own.

North Hollywood Speedometer and Clock. Located in ....North Hollywood. Here's the web site: http://www.nhspeedometer.com/

I had my tach guts replaced by a speedo shop (after trying to fix it myself). They installed new electronics which acknowledge any wave form (points, pertronix, electronic dizzy, whatever). This enabled original original appearance with the accuracy of modern electronics. Only problem is that it cost $170.00. Expensive, I know, but I can't stand driving without a tach.

Mine had threadlock on them. I like the welding idea. Put some tape around the top of the tube so that you don't gaul it.

If you're going to drop a V8 into it you should make sure you do whatever frame stiffening is required for the extra torque. I think these bodies are a bit flimsy after 35 years under stock conditions, and a bigger motor will exacerbate that condition. If you are going to weld, you might as well beef things up while you're at it.

If you have to buy a new piston/cylinder its only around $28.00. I had to do this a couple months back. Normally though, if there is a problem with the piston you should be losing fluid.

I say close the hood on the car and take a new pic for your avatar! Could be just bad kharma. If indeed you find it is the carbs, you might ask Z therapy about buying just the rebuilt throttle bodies. I did this from them for my roadster and it was less than 1/2 the cost of the entire carb setup.

I've checked JC Whitney and haven't found it there either. I've checked the other suppliers and their applications appear nowhere close to what we have. For example, one of the sites only handles vintage american aftermarket parts. Most squeegees, like the Datsun Roadster either slip over a groove or into a track. I guess my question is not so much on the supply side as the demand side. Is this just not a big enough issue for people to worry about replacing, or does everyone just drop the 2 bills and get on with it? If that were the only seal to replace I could live with it, but by the time you spend $200 here and $380 there on stuff that doesn't even enhance performance, it seems there has to be a more cost effective way.

OK, sorry to flog this horse here but as I've tried to locate the squeegee, it has become apparant that either 1)people are not satisfied with existing profiles that are available 2) you (I) can't get calls back from suppliers, and 3) I just can't stomach spending nearly $200.00 for a part that MIGHT fit my car when all I need is some stinkin' rubber seals. Therefore my question is: how much demand would there be if I were able to have the window squeegees made? It sounds like the setup and run would be a couple thousand dollars, but I'd be willing to do it if I could amoritize the cost over enough sets. Let's say the final cost would be $30.00-$40.00 for the pair. These could be made from a more modern material (some type of neoprene rather than rubber) which would hold up to UV light better, and would stay pliable longer than rubber. I would use the existing rubber pieces I have to reverse engineer a die for the extrusion. Thanks for any input.

The price is why people have gone with weatherstripping from the Kia Sportage at the junk yard. This has been discussed on this site. I bought mine a few weeks back for $16.00 and they are great.

Which weatherstrip are you referring to? To one that goes all the way around the door?

I called MSA today and they said they don't sell just the rubber. You have to buy the metal and rubber as one piece. Are you guys saying that you can get just the rubber from them?

I just did this upgrade. $50.00 for alternator w/core and appx $20.00 for Dave Erwin's plug (shipped). This was a great upgrade.

I swear, I did search but found nothing recent that appears applicable. Has anyone found a suitable replacement RUBBER piece that attaches to the stainless strip on the outside of the door to seal the windows? My stainless strips are in good condition and I'd rather not pay $80.00 per side just for some new rubber. I know it has been discussed in the past, but has anyone here recently dealt with this? Thanks.

I have a stovebolt in my '54 pickup with one single barrel carb. This motor will probably rev all the way up to 2,800 rpm-definitely not a performance setup. Judging by the plugs I'd guess that 1&6 definitley run hotter. It does seem like a long distance for the fuel to travel to get to the ends.

Here is a site that sells frame rails. As a disclaimer, I have never used them, don't own any of the company, and make no representation of their product. Just a reference, so you know about it. Hopefully this will help keep your car on the road and keep you out of German metal. http://www.baddogparts.com/

What if Indri wanted to invest in Z's?

Part of the reason that some old posts appear inactive is that pretty much everything has been done on these cars. You may find old posts that are of great value and that are accessed frequently, but just not added to.