tlorber

Kind of a sickness huh? I wonder how much mine has cost me in lost productivity.

Has anyone here installed the inner window fuzzies onto the door panel? I saw some old posts that talked about potential fixes but nothing definitive. The original ones were stapled on with a very heavy staples. The squeegees were attached to the outside stainless piece in the same manner. Is there an adhesive that will remain attached?

I think the million car thing only happens on the last weekend of the month.

I'll tailgate here since my thread heading would have been exactly the same. I just today bought a 5 speed from an '82ZX for my 240. The ZX had 214,000 miles on it and its life ended due to a front end collision, not anything due to the drive train. The car has been sitting for around 8 years but the tranny has oil in it, and my car now has the smell to prove it. Beyond front and rear seals, pressure plate, disk and throwout bearing, is there anything I should replace? Should I even crack the case open, or should I just throw it in and pull it if there's a problem?

I'll be at the Promenade around 9:00.

1981 Audi 5000. And I didn't even buy it. It was given to me. The thing sucked. Underpowered, overheated, constantly popping window switches, front wheel drive. It looked good though. I feel bad for the guy I sold it to.

That's why I threw in my wife's ethnicity. Don't you remember the Seinfeld episode where the dentist converted to Judaism so he could tell the jokes?

Gary, thanks for the reply. I do have an electronic dizzy that I plan on swapping to replace the points one that is currently on there, but the existing one looks to be in decent shape. I'm a big fan of one variable at a time so perhaps I'll wait til I have access to a timing gun and swap the dizzy first since I already have it. I plan on a new exhaust regardless. I was just wondering if I should brace for disappointment after dropping $430.00 on it.

What's wrong with my sperring? That's how we asians speak. (Actually it's my wife that's asian, I just picked picked up the habit).

I just want a flux capacitor.

See, this is how it happens. One weekend its strawberries, the next soccer, then a teaparty ralley, next thing you know its summer and too hot to drive.

I have those, or the same style on my car in 14". I plan on getting new wheels and tires down the road, but if you had an interest it might accererate my plans, ( I hope you guys appreciate my driving metaphors).

Mine has a similar issue. It does not bog, but as I get slightly above 4k it just does not seem to pull much. If it were starved for fuel, wouldn't it sputter a bit? I also have a tiny exhaust pipe-which I'm man enough to admit-(probably 1.5", and less around the 90* bends) and I'm running an L28. I plan on replacing the exhaust, but could this symptom be from exhaust not getting out fast enough at high RPM's?

There used to be an informal car meet each Sunday morning at Valley Circle just off the 101. The property owner disbanded it (now the local merchants are closing-big surprise). This venue was replaced by one at Erwin and Topanga. I haven't been there yet but am definitely willing to go. There are all types of cars there, and as per the last place, more show up on the last Sunday of the month. Personally I'd rather go when its bit less crowded so the 16th would work for me.

Looks like you got the girl though.

Those tail lights remind me of Clark W. Griswald's ride in Vacation.

I'm good for some local 3-4 hour drives. Shouldn't be to hard to put together. I'm all for the theory that the lower the production, the more likely it is to happen.

Sometimes when you lean out the mixture at idle, the idle will increase. Therefore if you do lean them out you could back out the throttle plate adjustment to lower the idle speed. The "problem" with SU's is that they tend to run richer at idle than at speed (say @ 3,500 rpm). You sort of need to pick where you want the performance-at higher rpms or at idle around town. Obviously selecting the correct profile needle will minimize this compromise. I'm sure Bruce Palmer will have more to say here. At the end of the day, idling at 1,000 won't hurt anything, (in fact it will keep the oil pressure a bit higher) it will just use a bit more fuel and you'll have to be on the brakes a bit more to slow down.

Nice explanation, but I think it was shot in real time. I think they could have condensed it a bit.

Here is a link to a Z specialist-I believe he is in Whittier. I have never used him, but I have spoken to him on the phone and he is quite knowledgable about Z's. http://www.mikeszshop.com/services.html

If you have one of the control arms out, I would try both the ball joints on it and make sure that one or both fit. I had bought some Meyle? ball joints from IMC and they were off by about 3/16". I had to do a combination of grinding the bj and the control arm so that the holes would line up. Beyond that, make sure you install zerk fittings.

Vice Grips ™ make a small pair of pliers that have a "pincher" end. This pair also has a triangular shaped notch further into the jaws. The purpose of this triangle is to grab nuts without gauling them. I have used these numerous times on my brake fittings with no damage. I wish I knew how to explain these pliers better, but when you see them at the hardware store you'll know them. Mine have "7LW" stamped on them. I'm not sure if this is a model number or just a casting number. They are definitely worth having.

I don't know of one, but I'd go. I'm in the west valley and it seems that most clubs are in the Inland Empire or Orange County.

Is it possible that the dashpot plunger rod is bent?

So does "dropping the exhaust" mean just the center pipe or the header as well?