tlorber

Also, I'm assuming that the "engine warm" requirement has to do with getting oil in the cylinders (a "wet" condition). This will yield a different result from a dry one, where the oil pump has not gotten oil to the rings to help seal. I've heard of people squirting light oil into the plug holes to simulate this prior to the compression test.

For any of you that have 6 into 1 headers on your cars, do you know if it is possible to drop the tranny without taking the header off? I'd like to put in a 5 speed, but I want to do the exhaust first. However, if everything has to come back off, I might as well wait until I have all parts. Thanks. Todd

I just wish I knew what an "injector pintle cap" was.

Nice ride. I'm in Tarzana-the car is in Van Nuys,

This is the A tranny, which has the same linkage as the Datsun Roadster. On my roadster I used a 14mm wrench to hold the nut, (accessed from above) and turned the shift lever by the flats, as referenced above. I'm not sure if you access the nut on the Z from above or below, but the mechanism is the same.

FWIW I believe the linkage is exactly the same as that for the datsun roadster. There are poly bushings available for that, and I replaced mine a few months back. You can go to datsunparts.com and search for shift lever bushing. Part number is 1784-you'll need to scroll down the page.

Gnosez, do those get welded on or just held on with the sway bar bolts?

Have you checked the alignment of the nozzles with respect to the needles? This is where these things normally hang up. It is easier to do with the carbs out of the car, but you need to back off the large jam nut that holds the nozzles in place and keep realiging and barely snugging the nut down until it the piston drops all the way without hanging up. I used a blue sharpie on the needle to see if there were any contact points with the nozzle. I don't think the outer part of shaft that is blemished actually contacts the dome. The tolerance is on the inner bore of that shaft with the dashpot plunger, so unless that shaft is bent, I doubt your problem is there.

ok, thanks guys. 1/4" or so thick plate will be easy enough to cut and drill as a spacer. I recently had the motor mounts off when doing the front suspension/steering and they looked to be in decent condition.

I installed a 1" MSA front sway bar on my '73 with an L28. There is only about 1/8" of clearance between the bar and the oil pump. Does anyone else out there have this experience? If so, to the two ever contact eachother? Thanks.

Nice pics-shameless plug for the Valvoline.

I agree with one of the posts above, that a film with a less aggressive adhesive would be better and must be available (you see things packaged with such film all the time). I'll check with a friend that has a Ferrari. Even if it is not invisible, who cares, as long as it is easily removed?

I once had to do the method stated above, where I took a socket and hammerred it onto the lug. In order to get the outer diameter of the socket into the wheels I had to grind it down a bit on a bench grinder. I still have the socket somewhere, and the whole process made me see how one can get around the wheel locks if one were so inclined.

Keep the sandpaper at 1000 or higher, and keep water on the areas you are sanding. After 1500 or so you can hit it with rubbing compound.

It's funny how these cars seem to breed. Every time I hear of someone that has two Z's, their yard fills up with more. Dave, I'd try to grind the price down a bit and then tow it home.

The hazards use a totally different flasher-located on the right side of the car. The turn signal one is on the drivers left, just under the dash.

Crazyocto, Have you opened up the banjo bolts on the float bowls? These originally had very fine screens in them (some people remove them) that can get clogged with junk. When I had my roadster carbs apart I found plenty of crap in there that made it past the fuel filter.

If they ARE too deep for compound, you can start by wet sanding with 1000 grit or so. Then work your way up to the buffing rouge.

I have a late '73 (7/73 I believe) with an L28 and an electric fuel pump. The power for the pump, which is located in the engine bay, comes off the ignition coil feed. I would like to reroute this so that there is no parasitic drain off the distributor current, and I'd also like to put in a cutoff for safety and theft purposes. Does anyone have a suggestion where I should intercept the harness so that can put kill switch in the cab, and still have it switched to the ignition? Thanks.

That is the ratio I'd like to put in once I get a 5 speed. I figure it is close enough to a 3.9, but gives me a bit taller gearing for the highway. Also, after rebushing the car, I'd rather not have to replace the parts I just did, so a R180 would be easier to deal with than an R200. Its not something I've been spending much time looking for [yet] but if anyone comes across one, let me know.

Get the head if you can! The "MN47" heads have a more desirable combustion chamber (also smaller volume, so it will raise compression). If you happen to see a differential from that car I would buy it from you/him.

I put redline in my roadster tranny, and I originally put ATF in a T5 tranny in my pickup. This definitely made the roadster shift easier, and chemically there were no problems, but in both cases I had seepage around the seals due to the thinner viscosity. If you are not replacing seals, I can pretty much guarantee that you will be putting some cardboard down on your garage floor.

K, here's what you do. Scrape of the major stuff with a plastic scraper. Then get some Easy Off Oven Cleaner-the lemon scented one is quite pleasant. Spray it on, scrubb a bit with a brush, and then rinse off. The nice thing about the oven cleaner is that it becomes water soluble, so it's easy to rinse. If the diff is out of the car, I would tape some plastic over the drive flanges so that you don't get water in the bearings or gears.

The N47's I have on my shelf (and presumably the on in my car) are internally oiled cams. This means there are holes in the lobes where the oil comes out to lubricate the rockers. The earlier heads did not have this, and therefore used a spray bar to reach the upper valvetrain components.

Welcome. I'll tell you this, if your car will only need work in the "months to come" either A) The car is in extremely good shape you are a very fast worker or C) you are an optimist. You'll find that with the info on this site there are endless upgrades that can be done. In any case, I'm sure you'll enjoy the process.