tlorber

I have Falken Azenis on my roadster, and plan on getting something similar for the Z once I get there. They are soft and sticky, but I won't be getting that many miles out of them. If I get 15,000 out of them that will be a lot. However, for the amount of total mileage I put on that car, I'll probably run out of time on them before mileage.

Yeah, I just got a Black Dragon catalog in the mail and found the part this morning. Pretty impressive that they carry such an obscure part,and definitely an easier way to go, but I'm still going to give the bronze ones a shot.

I ordered some bronze bushings today. The inner diameter is pretty close at 0.315" (spindle is 0.31") but the outer is 0.44" instead of 0.395". My plan is to chuck them in a drill press and file/sand down with emory cloth to get them to the correct o.d. Cost of the parts is about $9.00 and I'm guessing is will require 45 minutes of sanding & polishing.

Thanks for the input. I'm going to try to stop in on a bushing company later today if I have time.

On the top pic,(with the panasport looking wheels) what kind and size of wheels do you have on there. They look great.

I have them and recently took them off. I'll probably keep them just in case, but I prefer the cleaner look of just the bumpers. I plan on getting some of those little stainless steel inserts to plug the holes. Grass is always greener I guess.

On the S30's there is a bracket welded to the firewall that contains a spindle (pivot point) for the first of the many moving parts in the throttle linkage. This spindle has 2 bushings similar in shape to the ones that the shifter lever connects to the tranny with (totally different size though). The bushings are plastic, and in my case, they allow quite a bit of slop as the accelerator is moved. Has anyone ever rebushed these? I'd like to find either a final bushing or one I could use as a starting point and grind/mill down the the correct dimensions. Also, I'd prefer metal over plastic. Thanks.

I say, grind him down to $998.00 and then buy it!:classic:

Zedyone, From what I've read, you are no longer a junior in high school, and you STILL eat, sleep and drink cars. So don't sell yourself short!

I bought those Meyle ball joints from IMC. Price was good, but I had to grind a bit out of the edge of the control arm to get them to fit. It only took a couple of minutes, but I would recommend finding ones that fit without modification.

For those of you in California, April 8-10 is the Targa California. This is 2 1/2 days, appx 900 miles of driving through some of the nicest back roads in Central California. Last year I took my roadster on it, and it was easily the best drive of the year. It is basically pre '75 cars, though "continuation years" are welcome as well-picking up where the Iron Bottom left off. No entrance fee, only the cost of fuel, food and lodging if you elect to do so. Home base will be Paso Robles. I don't think they have updated the site yet, but you can google "Targa California" for info once they do. Hopefully there will be more Datsuns this year to represent.

Got it. Happen to know the torque setting for those?

I've been waiting now for 2 months for my sway bars to arrive from Motorsport. According to them, their rear bar does not use the stock mounting location on the frame-they say you need to drill holes to install it and that the location for their bar "provides better support". Since I don't have it yet I can't verify this, but you may want to call them to see.

Arne, yes those are the dimensions I was asking about. So are you saying there is no movement or slop around that stud?

Super Bowl-chips & salsa, and a British rock band at half time. What could be more American. Pretty entertaining though.

Does anyone know why there is so much space between the mustache bar mounting bolts/studs on the car and the sleeves that go inside the urethane bushings? (the original bushing sleeves have just as much space by the way). I would think that something meant to counter the torque of the diff would have a tighter fit. By the way, I wanted to thank all for the info on this site. Removing the old mustache bar bushings took a grand total of about 20 minutes per side due to the procedures described.

Those look awesome. Just found another back burner upgrade.

Does this mean that a 300zx's half shafts will mate up with 240 stub shafts, or do those need to be swapped out as well. I think I would rather have a 3.7 than a 3.9 (assuming I ever get hold of a decent 5 speed).

Garvey, I wouldn't start suspecting more complicated problems at this point. Idle tends to wander a bit with carbs even in good circumstances. Even if the chain is stretched (which is what tensioners are for) it would cause a consistent lag and should not cause wandering idle/timing variance. I understand what you are saying about not wanting to introduce more variables until you have solved a problem. However, I just picked up an electronic dizzy (from an '80zx) off Craigs List. I have not yet installed it, but it only cost me $60.00. You could try that and see if the problem improves. I've read and heard that it yields a much stronger and consistent spark.

Nice pics. Without spacers, do you think those would fit on an unflared car?

I just bought an electronic dizzy off Craigs List for $60.00. I haven't installed it yet but I'm looking forward to the performance enhancement.

I would think you need to replace the "R" with "H" for handicapable.

That is an awesome writeup. And best of all (and this shows you what a lazy arse I am) this can be done without removing the spindle pins. It looks like it would not be all that difficult to do if the vehicle is on a hoist, which I will have access to in the future-see my power of rationalization kicking in-. In fact, it looks like you can get better leverage for removing the nut and pulling the hub by leaving the strut housing on the car. Bottom line is, I think I'll put this off until the bearings begin to make noise, if they ever do. Thanks again to all for the replies.

Yeah, I was afraid you'd say that. So did you replace the bearings, or just repack them? Also, where did you get the replacement nuts, and are there any words of wisdom for removing them? Thanks.

Thanks, Steve.