tlorber

K, thanks Dave. I'll leave them as installed.

So it appears this is quite a bit more involved than just the cam? The cost of the pistons doesn't bother me-the guy I get my 311 parts from can get a set of flattops + rings for under $70.00. I have a friend that is a magician with porsches that I could have port/reshape the intake runners. All that being said, I'd rather not have to reinvent the wheel just to get a bit more flow. I have roundtop SU's on the car, plan on running it on the street and through canyons-probably no auto crossing nor track-though maybe some day. I'd guess 180hp to the wheels would be more than enough. Main constraint is that I want to be able to run it on California Premium (oxymoron?) which is 91 octane.

Wow! I guess my $449.00 camera ticket is a deal! Thanks city of los angeles.

Follow up to my original post. The front bushings had been replaced with urethane on the TC arms-I put the new ones on anyway-in the same orientation as the prior ones. The thicker bushing was/is in the rear. My question is-is this how yours are? Also, if I were to reverse them (thereby moving the arm back by around 3/16"), would that effect the castor enough to make a substantive difference? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I'll plan on new springs when the time comes for this project.

L28 dished f54 n47 head in a '73 240z I'm considering having the stock cam ground to stage 2 and putting in flat tops. My understanding is that I'll need to resurface the rockers and put in taller lash pads. Do I need different springs as well? Any other parts I'll need to replace? Thanks in advance.

I recently pulled my tach from the front-just the 2 wing nuts, which I loosened with lineman's pliers. There is enough wire length to disconnect the harness from the front hole after you pull it. Getting the nuts back on may be a bit more difficult.

The car looks nice, but that garage is way too clean.

By the way, this is the correct url. http://proamtdw.com/ I opened up the one I originally posted and saw some guy's nipple. Sorry about that.:stupid:

Goog lead on Beta as well. I was down that way yesterday at MSA, and I would have stopped in on them to see their shop if I'd known.

If any of you are looking for Tokiko HP's, I just bought a set from Proam.com. They're in Houston and the cost was $261.00 to California-no tax, no shipping, got here in 4 days. This was quite a bit less than anywhere else I saw. I wasn't sure where else to post this so I thought I'd put it here. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the responses. Ironically it almost feels like front wheel drive. Could be just getting used to rack & pinion. My 311 and my old pickup are both manual steering, but they both utilize worm gears-totally different feel.

Heh heh "weed end ride" heh heh. Those are now legal here in California.

I recently bought a '73Z and it is a blast to drive. I will be replacing all suspension bushings, springs and shocks. The car tracks perfectly straight, but in a turn, the wheel wants to pull back to center pretty hard. Is this a castor adjustment, or just how these cars drive? Thanks for any input or advice.

I have a late '73 (build date 8/73 I believe) with a 3 wire. The tach is in the shop as I write this, and if they can repair it, I'll let you know what the fix was.

Ron, you were right about your new video equipment- that Coronado video is much clearer than the one I remember from last year. Thanks for your advice on Z's. I did end up buying one a couple weeks back, and I'm about to get new suspension parts an go to work on it.

And another-for you early year guys. This guy has been trying to sell this for a while-the price has been dropping. It looks like he swapped out the hatch for a newer one. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/1504465925.html

Nissanmaster, that orange and blue car is awesome. Do you have any other pics of it? My garage recently took on a '73Z. This bumped my '69 311 out to the warehouse/bar (the Tin CanTina) to join my '54 GMC pickup, and a buddie's '62 Ghia, which never moves.

Not mine, but I thought it looked interesting. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1498354372.html

I'm glad to see that those cars (or at least one) will be resurrected, at that at the very least, the other will become an organ donor that another may survive.

Great posts guys. Thanks inline6er for the formula. Just out of curiosity, does the 14.7 have something to do with the stoichiometric ratio or is it just coincidence?

Oh, and while we're at it, in California, where we can only get pump gas as high as 91 oct. (and farmers can't get water at all) what is the highest compression one can comfortably run without predetonation?

Does anyone know the relationship (conversion) between psi and compression ratio?

'83 Audi 5000-I didn't even buy it, it was given to me and it was still a horrible deal. Gutless, constantly overheated, and the electric window switches kept on breaking. I was so happy to get out of that car.

Does anyone know if these are available in a softer durometer urethane? That could be a good compromise between the harder ones and the rubber.