tlorber

Have you found any pieces of the bearing races on the magnetic drain plug? If you crack the tranny open to replace the bearings, you should check the baulk rings. If you are going through all this (a tranny rebuild) you might look into a 5 speed swap from a ZX. You'll have a different car.

The car looks great. Those wheels just kill the mood though (IMHO).

Those seats look like a great upgrade. I put Miata seats in my car and they hold me in much better than stock. I'd imagine that the S2000 seats do so even better.

I say buy a decent mig welder (I paid $330 at Eastwood w/shipping) and finish it yourself. I've been using flap discs lately and they cut WAY faster than a grinding wheel. Grinding is the most tedious part.

You don't have to do everything in the same color. SEM makes some great vinyl dying products-just prep/clean with acetone. I have a silver car and went with a combination of black (seats/tunnel) grey (carpets) and red for part of the door liners and shift boot. The stock steering wheel is now gone and replaced with a black Momo.

If the lenses are that easy to get out, doesn't it seem like one could make the amber euro lens for these cars without making the entire light assembly?

So does that mean that you are putting back on the original wheels + wheel covers? I do like the green that you painted the car, but I must confess I also like the bare naked lady stripped down to the metal. Kind of a Japanese Deloren look.

DJ, Congrats for being one of the few Americans to actually get 2 cars into a 2 car garage. As Americans' waistlines have expanded, so has their appetite for junk that ends up consuming parking spaces.

I really like my '82 ZX tranny. I have it with a 3.7 diff. As stated above, I rebuilt the tranny before putting it in because I knew the bearings were shot. The only reason I might consider running one without rebuilding is because on the Z's are pretty easy to drop out and install. A Datsun Roadster is another story-There you have to pull the motor to get at the tranny.

Here are a couple threads... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/46999-mirrors.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48264-aftermarket-mirrors.html The last time I spoke with Dean at Datsun Parts, he scrapped the convex version for the passenger's side because the manufacturer couldn't get it right. He may be working on a flat version though. In my opinion the field of view is very limited on these, but on one of my older mirrors I had glued a convex mirror (from an Integra that I cut to fit) onto the flat version and it worked well.

Last week I was driving my '73 and I began hearing a strong clunking noise in the rear when I went over bumps. I have a 7/8" swaybar attached at the factory mounts-or at least I did. The mounts tore off the body, allowing bar to smack against it... Fortunately, this occurred on the EXACT DAY that I had a lift installed in my shop so working under the car is now very easy. The metal that I cut out was not rusted at all-in fact the undercoating took a bit of upbrading with the wire brush to get off My plan is to replace the torn metal and then weld in an additional channel to wrap the rail and distribute the load over a greater area. I'm posting this because those of you that use the same mounting may want to have a look underneath, to be sure that the same is not happening to your cars.

I believe the '73's have taller mounting tabs than the earlier ones. That is not to say they can't be adapted though.

On future patches, you might want to consider drilling holes in the patch and then plug welding to the original material (similar to spot welds) in addition to the perimeter welds that you have. That will provide more contact area for very little extra work.

I think he's saying "give a man a girlfriend for a weekend and his wife will never see him again". No wait...what?

After going through the effort of making my own out of brass, I saw some on eBay ( made of brass as well). They were pricier than the plastic ones, but I'm sure you'll never replace them again.

Which is?

Those are overflows for the bowls. There should be a couple of ports on the back of the air box baseplate to accept tubes from these. That way, if there is an overflow, the fuel goes into the box instead of flowing onto hot exhaust manifolds.

This is a thread from when I smashed the front of my car. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/41891-major-ouchie.html Believe it or not I was actually able to drive this 230 miles back home. (with a little persuasion in the front end to accept a new radiator). I'm not recommending you go out and try it, but these cars can take a beating from certain angles and still get you through.

Nice car. Make sure your brakes and suspension bushings are up to snuff. As stated, the toughest issue will be getting rid of the fuel smel (I assume it is raw fuel), but exhaust has a way of wafting in as well. Until you get that worked out, drive with the fan on and leave windows open when parked if possible.

I agree. When they start asking for passwords, my A.D.D. kicks in and I go somewh...

I bought an early 80's ZX alternator from Auto Zone for $40.00 with a lifetime warranty. I bought the adaptor plug directly from Dave Irwin (he makes them for MSA. I have had no problems with the modification.

Here in California, thanks to the supreme court you can take a couple swigs from a big fat dude.

Do you have access to any spare carbs that you could bolt on?

Brawndo is the thirst mutilator-and its got electrolytes.

There are many writeups on this. I pulled Kia Sportage weatherstripping out of a wrecking yard. Sounds ghetto, I know, but the stuff works great. And for $8.00 it was hard to beat.