tlorber

OniZ, just out of curiousity, how much torque are you putting to the rear wheels? Unless the 10's are for aesthetic purposes they are probably not neccessary for handeling, and you'll lose your ability to oversteer. Not sure if that matters to you, but its one of the things that I am considering before I select my wheel size.

I have a condition similar to that stated above, where if I use the GM Tranny Mount, the diff nose will be lowered enough (by about 3/4") to interfere with the rear sway bar. How does this NOT happen to those of you that have used the GM Mount? Are you using a sway bar that is different from the stock location? I'm planning on grinding down the GM mount, and possibly the differential bosses so that it will sit at more or less stock height, but if there is a better way please let me know. I am currently running a bump stop on the top, but it still moves a bit and I like the idea of having the diff secured on both top and bottom-you know, like on a normal car.

If the throttle shafts are leaking a lot of air ("a lot" is a relative term), they may be permitting air to pass through that the butterfly would normally close off, thereby rendering your idle adjustment useless. If funds are your main issue, you may want to ask Bruce about purchasing just the throttle bodies. Assuming the rest of your carbs are good, he can send you the newly bushed throttle bodies, you transfer all of the other components from old to new, and then send in your old ones as the core. This is less than half the cost of the completely refurbished set.

Have you checked the screw that syncronizes the carbs at high speed. If this is too tight, your rear carb may not be actually sitting at idle, but may be tied to the front carb's idle.

Very nice write up. I did not know Mike, but I had spoken to him a few times before I bought my Z regarding things to watch out for, repairs/performance upgrades he would be able to do etc. He was always helpful and willing to answer questions. Hopefully Chris and Art will maintain the same culture.

Thanks for the input.

Nufum, eh?

Your avatar looks like low profile tires, but what are you running? When I had 70's on my wheels, the car was not real responsive and had a bit of roll to it.

I just finished rebuilding a 5 speed that I recently bought (out of an '82 ZX). I will be putting this into my '73. I noticed that the shifter return to center from the right (5th and R) is fine but the return from the left (1st and 2nd) seems weak, if it springs back at all. Is this typical for this tranny? I did try shimming the return spring to add tension but it really didn't help. I hope this description makes sense. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Can I suggest a 4th option? Keep driving the car. I have a friend that has stored his ghia in my warehouse because he wants to restore the car to original perfection. He hasn't driven the car in 7 years (its only been at my place for 2). Both he and the car keep aging and he gets no fun or utility out of it. If you are attenting med school in a decent climate area, the Z could actually be a practical car-small, cheap to run and maintain. Under no circumstances should you start tearing the car apart if you are not prepared to devote the time and attention to keep the project moving along.

I could use the lower front fender emblems if you still have them. Thanks, Todd.

OEM were the stainless, flat (non bullet) housings-the same as those from the roadster. Courtesy Nissan has the driver's side for $85.00. I bought 2 of these, and made a shim out of aluminum for the passenger's side to compensate for the camber of the mirror. It would help greatly to have a convex mirror for the passenger's side. I took one off a honda, but I need to figure out a way to cut it to size and then I will glue it on top of the existing one.

Park on a hill?

Both sides get deflected over time. I have to open mine up again for the fronts. One thing that helps is to get an electronic flasher rather than a thermal one. Per Dave Irwin, it requires less amperage to drive them so contacts won't arc as badly and, you don't need as good a connection to feed them a signal.

FastWoman, where did you get the rubber for the outer piece? Those are on my list as well. Thanks.

I haven't installed mine yet, but I will be taking them to an upholstry guy that I know. He has a heavy stapler.

Darrel, I had tried to view your shifter pics on the Hybrid site but was not able to. I'd like to see exactly which portion you were referring to that needs to be ground off. Any chance of posting those pics here? THanks.

My $0.02-You may not NEED to do this, but unless the bushings have been replaced already (my preference is with urethane, but who cares?) they are almost 40 years old. I did not actually replace my spindles, but I did take them out in order to replace bushings. You already have most of the system apart, so you might as well deal with it now. It will be a bit more time and $, but you'll know that you are done with it. I was able to extract my spindles with a pipe clamp and a bfh, but you can locate a spindle pin puller from someone on this site (beandip) that will make the process easier. Leave the nuts on as long as you can to avoid gauling the threads. You may want to get hold of extra nuts because you'll probably damage the existing ones. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the input.

Just out of curiousity, how empty does the tank [actually] need to be in order to pull out the sender unit and not have gas pour out?

Very nice job Julio. I like the reflection of the photographer on the interior shot. I was curious what you used as the second color on the bottom of the door panels. Is that a vinyl paint?

Very nice car. I'm guessing you will NOT end up selling it. The problem with these cars-and many others, is that it is hard to get out what you have into them and make a profit unless you find someone that is a collector looking specifically for that quality of car. That is tough to do in this market, but I certainly wish you all the best.

Head is an N47. The motor did not want to get up there. Now it pulls hard through 6k. Has a peak between 3800 & 4400 and another btw 5000 and 5600. However, I also noticed when I pulled the carbs that the gaskets on both had "slumped" into the airway and were blocking around 10% of it on both carbs. This probably contributed to the condition.

There are a lot of writeups here and on the Hybrid Z site. I believe they will fit but you may need to mill out a bit of the cylinder wall at the top in order to clear the larger valves.