kjphilippona

Have not tried yet, i feel with all this vast knowledge on this board why not ask if anyone has the best way to perform a job. Learning from the school of hard knocks is not my cup of tea

I ordered the MSA kit last night along with the 6 spacers. A friend of mine at work suggested heating up the nut/studs, not red but hotter than what you get at operation temp and letting them cool then spray WD40 or PBblaster. Has anyone tried this, i was a little worried doing this with the head being aluminum.

Will i also need the 6 spacers ?

Thanks, have you ever removed the exhaust manifold without breaking any studs ? Is it possible to get studs, washers and nut from a hardware store ? what size's do i need ? A seller on ebay wants $50 for the exhaust hardware, that sounds steep to me.

Thanks, i'll pull the intake off and then soak the nuts to the exhaust manifold with pb-blaster of a few days and cross my fingers.

I am not sure if my '77 280z's struts are the same, but i also need to replace mine. I have asked in another post but got no response, the shop manual nor the repair manual tell me what special tools are needed. I know there are many people on this site that have done this before. I do not have a garage of shop i am a true back yard mechanic, will i be able to accomplish this task ? There was a section where you have to remove the top sleeve nut this look like you need some special spanner wrench then you have to poor the fluid out off the tube, is this when you rebuild the OEM strut or do you have to do this when you replace the inserts ?

Thought I'd give my fusible link a look since the covers on this car were replaced with duck tape and cardboard. Links looked ok under one but when i examined the others the connectors were barely hanging on and broke as soon as i touched them. Are these special or just a piece of 8 gauge wire with connectors on either end ?

Thanks twsutt

Sorry guys for not being very clear. The switch i replaced was the parking brake switch, i thought all it did was indicate when the parking brake was engaged. Yes i do have major brake problems, there is a leak somewhere that i cannot find, pedal is firm but brakes do not stop the car very well, also pulls to the left and shakes.

Thanks, i am going to do a complete brake system overhaul as soon as i receive all my parts. I was afraid it was not the switch :disappoin

I have a manifold leak, replacing the gasket does not look too hard, only problem i have is the emissions pipe from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold looks like it broke at one time and was welded. Is it possible to leave both connected and slide them off the studs far enough to replace the gasket ?

I had the dash brake light on with the parking brake on or off, it would only get dimmer. I thought the switch had gone bad like everything on this car. Payed $15 for a new switch, replaced the switch and the light would go out when i disengaged the parking brake and come on when i engaged the parking brake. One problem fixed, i thought, today i moved the car and the light is back on, what gives :mad:

These rims are on my dad's and they have "Shelby" center caps. They are in bad shape the aluminum is pitted and tarnished and i need new center caps :disappoin

Thanks, I'm not sure where to start, the suspension is all but gone, hit a bump and it sounds like you lost a wheel. The drive shaft or diff clunks every time you shift a gear, the clutch feels like its almost gone. the injectors are a clump of corrosion and the connectors are just sitting there you look at them wrong and they will fall off. I have a leaking manifold gasket (hope not cracked manifold) sounds really bad

This is the #1 ZCar web board in the world, you guys and gals are the best, i made a mistake joining Zcar.com when i first started working on this car and got no help or a bunch of SA remarks. I will keep you informed on my progress or problems.

Thanks, i'll dive in tomorrow

She does not sputter, just slowly idles down on shuts off:disappoin

Got all conectors cleaned up and now she runs for a while and then just dies:tapemouth

I have not had a chance to look at the wiring or test the switch, just thinking ahead, if one ore both switches are bad, can i replace it with one from another year 280Z ? Can i have them rebuilt ?

Think i have found my problem, me being a newbie, while cleaning all the oil and crud from this engine, i accidental got cleaner on the injectors and connectors and they are all green with corrosion.

I have a crazey light problem, i get no headlights when you turn the switch on, flip the high beam and lights come on ?

Thanks guy's i check out what you suggested. bobc, i only pulled the boot loose from the plug, i did not have my remote starter with me today. I will be bringing it home this week, she still sits at my mom's. Crazy thing FastWoman when i first got the wires replaced she would not run, checked my wires and plugs and #2 was black, the injector plug got knocked off. I need to replace all of the connectors they are cracked and barely hold on.

I just replaced wires (ngk) plugs (ngk) dist cap and rotor button. I had a miss so i did an old test i learned back many years ago when i had my 260z. I disconnected on plug wire at a time, with #'s 1-3-4-5-6 the engine would change idle and run rough, straightening out when the wire was reattached. With #2 there was no change, there was a spark at plug and dist. cap. What do you guy's thing ?

Are there any special tools required besides a spring compressor to replace the strut cartridges front and rear on my '77 280z ?

Thanks guys, cbudvet the interior is in very good shape except for the seats they are toast. Yea bigoak, mom kept complaining about where all her clothspins were going. I do have a few problems i am working on and will do a deep search.