kjphilippona

My old Z has 420,000 miles on her and now that i have it running some what ok, if there is no rain in the forecast we are driving

I ordered ball joins from MSA they were cheaper at BD but decided to order from them because this web board advertises their site and sometimes you get what you pay for. They were some Korean junk and MSA did not offer for me to return them for a refund. All they had to say was " We have sold 100's of them without any problems" . As for the old saying "you get what you pay for" was brought up by some members as to why they order from MSA, i needed rotors all the way around for mt Eclipse, i found a seller on ebay that had old stock from a defunked parts house and got all 4 shipped for $175. when they arrived the rear were made in Japan and the front were Brembro.

I rewired a new plug onto the wire harness and attached it to the Thermo Time switch, the car started ok but when after warmed up to operating temp you rev up the engine you could see smoke coming out of the exhaust and it smelled like gas. The tail pipe sooted up very quick. From reading the Fuel Injection manual i take it that my Thermo Time switch is not working properly ? Living here in the south where it rarely gets very cold, is it necessary to replace this switch or just unplug it like my Dad did ? Also i looked into replacing the Thermal Vacuum Valve, EGR Control Valve and BPT Valve. MSA has all of them, the BPT Valve they sell is listed for a 1978, my 280Z is a 1977, does anyone know if it will work ?

You have a much nicer Z than i have, i do not have the resorces to make it a daily driver that you can trust. This is why its not on the driveway, the Eclipse is my daily driver and the Z only comes from under the covers on blue bird days :paranoid:

I really get a good laugh watching all the stares my yard gets when my son comes over and i drive the Z

mayitin, Mobile is a little far for me to drive. it is on the other side of Alabama from dothan. I us to drive it every weekend for 4 months, 5 years ago when the company i worked for closed the plant i worked at and moved all operations to its mother plant in Mobile. Boy did i have fun, I10 was like the Autobahn. FastWoman that would be great if i could get good used functioning parts to replace my decrepit ones. i did some research and MSA has some of the valves, but they are not cheep.

Well i got everything sorted out, my first thought was that the hose attached on top of the dash pot, FastWoman set me straight letting me know that no vacuum hose attached to the dashpot. I then got to thinking, the car started stalling or almost stalling after i removed the dash pot thinking it was just taking up space and looked like crap on the front of the engine. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it, no more stalling. As for the mystery hose, i looked at the shop manual and found where it was supposed to attach, the first nipple on the thermal vacuum valve. The second nipple is broken off so the hose that goes to the bpt valve is attached to the first nipple. All three components in this series are non functional, the fitting on the btm of the bpt valve is broken off and the steel line to the egr housing is plugged off. what a mess, i am glad i live in Alabama where there are no emission checks, this car would never pass.

You are correct the hose comes out of the throttle body, the vac hose to the canister that t's to the vac advance on distributer is connected. The other canister vac hose is connected to the intake manifold. This hose was disconnected some time ago by PO and is not located neer anything just curled up on the wheel well.

The hose coming out of the AFM is not connected to anything just plugged off. The car dies when you come to a stop and push in the clutch. Some times it will idle down to 300 and the fuel relay under the dash goes crazy than it idles up to 1200 and then back to 750. When the car idles it is not a steady idle, the motor surges 100 or 200 rpm.

I have been trying to track down the cause of my stalling problem i have been having when i come to a stop. FastWoman has been helping me get this far, tried cleaning the cold start valve and replaced coolant temp sensor, but need to post some pictures to identify where these two attach, to determine if they could be part of the problem. I think the harness attached to the thermotime switch (which has been disconnected). Does anyone know where the vacuum hose could have been connected to ?

I had hoped to get this feedback a week ago, 50 people read the thread but no one responded. It was easier to replace the injectors wih the new holders, i did not have to clean up the old holders before installing the new injectors, still took me around 4 hours :disappoin.

I had hoped to get this feedback a week ago, 50 people read the thread but no one responded. It was easier to replace the injectors wih the new holders, i did not have to clean up the old holders before installing the new injectors, still took me around 4 hours :disappoin.

I went and purchased the plastic holders and installed them along with new injectors today.

I am replacing my old injectors and thought about replacing the holders and retainer plates. All the replacement holders look like they are made of plastic, my holders are aluminum. Is there a reason why they were changed to plastic ? should i just clean up my holders if they are not damaged and reuse them ?

I still have the original weatherstrip and the flat part is not glued. According to Wick Humble "How to restore your z-car" he says to apply weatherstrip cement to the jamb lip and press the rubber strip into it carefully.

Here are pics of my 77's hatch weatherstrip. Hope this helps :classic:

Thanks sblake01, thing's seem to work better when they are hooked up correctly, not sure how i got the vac source crossed but that is what was wrong. I have great heat now. :classic:

The old Z sure does not need high performance tires, with 400k miles on the odometer, it's a sunny Sunday afternoon cruiser. I had to get two tires for the rear, could not match the front Nankang's. This company has gone out of buisness and they were almost new so i did not need 4, i settled with a pair of Prime Well PS850's. They ride and stop well, at $50 a piece i am happy.

I know what you mean, when my mother told me i could have Dad's 77' Z, i spent a small fortune replacing all the belts and hoses before i felt safe driving it past walking distance :classic:

Easy things first before i start disassembling my ctr council, i replaced all the vacuum line a few months ago trying to get this old bird to idle smoother, when i went to hook the ones up that connect to the vacuum bottle, one of them goes thru the passenger wall to the ac/heat control unit, i was not sure which went were. I must have a million pic's of the engine before and after to help me prevent this from happening but none of the vacuum bottle. Does it matter ? does anyone have a picture showing the hose hookup.

My 1977 280Z has 418,625 miles, the engine and transmission have been rebuilt once. :classic:

I have not tested the temperature using another gage, i did remove the radiator cap and was able to stick my finger into the water without it burning. When i get a new plug, and lower radiator hose, i will borrow one of the wifes meat temp gages and give the (calibration) test

Well if its not not one thing another, i was not able to find a replacement pet **** at any of the part stores for my radiator due the fact that this is the third radiator including the OEM that my dad had in this car. I some how lost the plug gasket but was able to chase the threads so that the plug would screw in tight. Filed her up with water only to check for leaks and test the heating system. I will drive the car until i find a replacement plug at a radiator shop. Started it up and let it warm up, temp gage came right up to almost center gage. Turned the heater on high, i only had cold air coming out of the ac vents and nothing out of the heater vents at your feet. I think i have some big problems that will take some time to figure. I also noticed that my lower radiator hose has a good ware mark from the alternator rubbing against it, new hose time. My dad had this problem when he got the radiator replaced, he made it half way home before the alternator wore a hole in the hose and poof giant cloud of smoke, i remember his saying he thought the car was on fire, scorched the underside of the hood. My guess is that i should stay away from aftermarket hoses and get OEM.

FastWoman, i have not driven the since replacing the thermostat, i screwed up the drain plug and it seem that no one had one, so one had to be ordered. I did not think about it until i had returned home after running all over town looking for a replacement, the radiator in this car is not the OEM, it was replaced a few years back by my Dad, so i am not sure what plug i even need. I don't understand why some things cant be generic. it's only a stupid plastic plug :mad:

Yes this is the first time i have driven the car and had to use the heater, the air is only warm. Yes this is a possibility that the heater core has been plugged off, my Dad was the PO and he was known to some of the strangest things. I replaced the thermostat (180 degree) as usual had problems, the bolts looked like the had not been removed in some time and were heavily crusted up, washers were added to get good threads. I tapped the holes and used new bolts, have not tried it out because of another problem, screwed up the plastic drain plug and had to order another :mad: