kjphilippona

This is the first winter that i have had the car running good enough to drive it all the way to work. The engine does hot run great but for a car with 400k+ miles i guess it gets down the road good. It starts up with just a bump of the starter and idles with a slight lope. The temp will climb up to ctr of the gage when sitting at a light but will drop back down as soon as you start driving. When it was very cold in the morning, the gage would barley be off of the 120 mark and i had no hot air coming out of the heater vents.

No, this is what accumulates after i drive the car round trip to work. i called around to find the nearest radiator shop that stays open long enough for me to make it into town before they close. i should find out something next week Tuesday. I took a picture of the temp gauge on my way home ( condition o/s temp 58 deg. @ 70 mph ) does this look normal ?

Thanks, the hoses look good and cap is new, but i do have a slight leak from some where :disappoin

Thanks :classic:

I drove the Z to work Tuesday and it was freezing when i left home. I work around 40 miles from home and the temp gage never got over 1/3 of the way up with no hot air coming out of my vent. It climbed up a little higher when i got into town and stopped at a few lights. My thoughts was that it might be time to change my thermostat, when i checked into a new one there were different temp's available. What is the correct one for my 1977 280z ?

Thanks Dave :classic:

Having worked with weatherstrip products for 5 years, i have seen this problem many times. Rubber never forms the same every time and i should have seen this when i installed them but was to excited to finally getting new w/s so i was blind. I took comparison pictures of the passenger and driver's side w/s and there is a big difference between the profile size and i am sure this is why it made contact with the drivers side door panel enough times before if finally split :disappoin

:mad: Just noticed the new driver-side B/S Weatherstrip from BD that i installed October of last year is torn. Not sure if i should even waste my time contacting BD and order from another place. I looked at other suppliers and have a question, what is "Welting" ? I see it listed installed on some of the weatherstrip's for sale.

That he did :classic:

Very nice, both cars

Red Line sell two types of 75w90 gear oil, one just has high performance and the other is "NS". Which of the two do you recommend for the differential.

I thought i did the math correct, Transmission takes 4 1/4 pts. and Differential , if i have a R180 2 1/8 pts. or 2 3/4 pts. for the R200. Sorry this is one thing i have no idea what i have :disappoin i just calculated with 2 3/4 pts.

Thanks everyone for the help, trying to track down some Red Line MT90 and Red Line 75W90 gear oil, best deal i can find is around $70 for 3 qts of MT90 and 2 qts of 75W90 gear oil. Just need to get it ordered and hope all the plugs come out with out any trouble

Thanks MEZZZ that was very good info to know. I have made a similar mistake changing the oil in my moms Saturn, first time i drained the oil and did not have a filter wrench that would fit her oil filter. I had to drive 30 miles back into town to get a filter wrench. Second time i drained the oil and the parts house gave me the wrong oil filter, back to town for the right filter :mad:

Yes i have new tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bars bushings, sway bar end link bushings and strut inserts I had the front end aligned at the local tire shop after replacing everything.

Drove the car this morning and the front end seems to wander around a little, as if following and grooves or ruts in the road, not so bad on new smooth freeway. I checked again last night and there is no way to get the bushings on the wrong side. I also looked at the picture closely and it looks like i might have broken some of the lip off while installing them, my eyes are not so good any more and bifocals are a bitch lying under the car, i did not try that trick of boiling them and they were a pain to install. like cozye said they have a top and btm front and back, because i had them in and out many times. Sorry, yes they are polyurethane.

I replaced the ball joints, strut links, sway bar bushings, brake caliper bolts, differential bushings, differential mount. All except the sway bar bracket were at such an awkward location , i could not get a torque wrench on it. I do have a torque wrench and only tighten nuts and bolts with common sense

The weather finally warmed up enough for me to crawl under the Z and replace the steering rack bushings and steering coupler. Steering coupler was not to bad but have a question with the rack bushings, passenger side is smaller so i installed the thick bushing on that side and the thinner one on the drivers side. My problem is after i tightened everything down (upper and btm brackets are touching at clamp ends) there is a 1/2 inch gap in the bushing where it is split. Is this common or have i done something wrong ?

I know this will probably get me thrown off this web board but here it goes. Everyone when they replace anything always state they torque everything down to factory specs. I have found working on this car that it is not always possible to get a torque wrench on some bolts when you do not have the car up on a nice car lift in a garage. I know there has never be a time when i have not tightened something down to the point it will come loose, my question is could sightly over-tightening something cause a problem ?

They are close, it is month's between times that i dust in my man cave

Nice i have about 50 1:18 scale cars, can't afford to own the real thing so this is as close as i can get. Have not come off the money to get the Veyron yet

The wife gave me a set of coustom seat covers for the Z, that did not fit and a new rolling tool box that was droken :disappoin

I looked at the picture u posted and the size is on the os of top right support 6JJx14 :classic:

If i am not mistaken most wheels will have the size stamped on the inside. All that i have owned are that way.

Thanks Steve for the info, i am sure most are thinking i have lost a few screws as to why i am looking for this info. I have gone down this road with my 95 turbo eclipse and has cost me quite a sum of money repairing the damage. Same as the z it called for GL-4 gear oil, i paid no attention to this and went with what everyone was using BG Syncroshift and within 6 months i had to replace my transmission. All the brass syncros were gone causing me to grind in 2nd and third and it would pop out off gear in 4th. Now i use Redline MT-90 a GL-4 gear oil. I the engine i thought more money meant better oil for my engine, used Mobil 1 and spun a bearing, got all that fixed $$$$$, tried Royal Purple, after 1 week the car smokes when i first start it up and when i step on it very hard. I have gone back to Castrol GTX.