kjphilippona

They are Energy Suspension Polyurethane (Black) bushings, i applied the provided grease to the i.d and o.d of the bushing.

Thanks, i did not want to take it appart again

I replaced my front sway bar bushings and end links yesterday, i have read so many threads suggesting "plenty of grease" or poly bushings will squeak. I failed to follow the directions on the sway bar bushings and applied grease on the inside around bar and out side around mtg bracket. Will i be ok or should i remove the brackets and clean off the grease ?

Thanks for the p/n, Mike finally did a check on all orders and found out my CD order had fallen thru the cracks and got one on the way. This will help me look up parts :classic:

Do you know if one for a '80-'83 280zx will work on my '77. One for my '77 is hard to find but one for the 280zx are avaliable.

I ran a hose from the TB to the T, the car started right up no rich smoke. The valve must have been broken because the fast idle never worked, it works no, i guess the engine idled at around 2600 rpm, a little fast for a cold engine in my opinion so i shut her down.

Nice cars :classic: I can only afford the model :disappoin I will give that bar another try this weekend, if no rain.

Thanks, i'll give that a try

sblake01 when you said that, i had to run out in the cold with a flashlight and :stupid:, that's just what i had done. That does not fix my AAR, those things are expensive $109 at Black Dragon, what do i have to do to remove it and the heat block and bypass it ?

Thanks guys i will check things out tomorrow. Here is a better pic before i replaced the connectors. I was so careful to align the connector the same way and mark the wires :disappoin

preith, if you say that me breaking this valve did not cause my over rich problem, maybe i wired one of these backward ?

I was able to remove all 4 nut holding the bar to the frame and diff housing. I then was able to slip the bar over the studs by raising the diff housing. This is as far as i got, the bar would hit against the suspension before clearing the studs out of the frame. No amount of prying and #@$ing did any good, even if i were able to remove it with the deteriorated bushings on the bar, when i replaced them it would be tighter. When you are by your self working on the ground in the backyard it can be a pain.

I hate when things go wrong when you try to fix things up. I was replacing three connectors that were barely hanging on, everything went ok until i had to disconnect the connector to this valve and the whole switch pulled out. I pushed it back in and started up the car, not sure if this is my problem or if i wired one of the other plugs wrong, i did them just like my injectors and had no problems. The car runs super rich and stalls out :disappoin

I have searched for directions on removal of the mustache bar on a '77 280z and found none. All i found are for older 240z's and my bar will not come off using those instructions. Looking at the bar, i thought it would come off easy without having to disassemble the rear suspension and exhaust :disappoin

Thanks for the info, Dothan is on the other side SE corner of Al. When i get this old girl road worthy , i might just do that :classic:

I noticed that my strut boots are cracked and torn, i plan to replace my struts as soon as the weather allows. Replacement boots carry a very high price for what they are, is it necessary to replace them ?

I would love to be there but not sure my old z could make that trip :disappoin

That you are :classic:

Very nice, i have to replace all my weatherstrip hope my wife helps like yours

I feel your pain A few years ago my daughter had someone pull out in front of her in my DSM. Just remember like i told my daughter ( Who did not want to come home to face me ) You did not get hurt, cars can be fixed or replaced.

That really looks good, i know mine will need to be cleaned and painted also. This might be a dumb question, what type of paint are you using to on your calipers and back plate ?

I guess Ron has fallen off the face of the earth, i will have to gut this clock and see i i can repair it my self :disappoin

Thanks, i will check with them they seem to have higher quality parts than Autozone and Advanced. Any parts that sell only Gates belts and hoses has to be good :classic:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-280z-Precision-Ball-Joints-Tie-Rod-Ends_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dd4cfc95QQitemZ360195095701QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-240z-260z-280z-Lower-Front-Ball-Joints_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53deb987c4QQitemZ360218986436QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

You should contact MSA a let them know what problems you had. I have not bought replacement ball joints yet, i am worried about the tie rod ends i received from them also. If they sell cheep junk like this, i would just have saved money on shipping and received it faster buying on ebay.