RT Hunter

@TomoHawk: Thanks very much for the photos. I like that idea you have. Lets you have more stuff to store by utilizing the 3" vertical gap. I think one day I'll do something similar too.

Here is a picture of the floor without the false floor (not my Z): http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Mezster/DSC00935.jpg Notice that near the compartments, there are vertical brackets which the raised floor is bolted onto. Also the wheel well area that has been also raised. I think those compartments on the 280z also had little lids that covered them too. It's odd that they would keep it some what functional, yet inaccessible.

@ZCurves: Yeah, I kind of thought about converting it, but I would also like to keep a spare wheel. From what I read, is that the spare wheel well was raised to accomodate the larger fuel tank. It seems like only a motorcycle tire would be able to fit if the raised floor was removed. I don't mind the raised floor, but it seems like the two compartments are now inaccessible. It's a shame because I could put air compressor, or other handy things in there.

240z's and 280z's have different hatch area floors. 280z's have wooden boards that cover the whole floor. Photo below belongs to another 280z owner: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/members/zcurves-albums-beginning-picture43629-10.jpg

Those with stock 1977/1978 280z hatch area, how easy it is for you to access your hidden/secret/weed compartment (the two behind the seats in the hatch floor)? My Z hatch area is stock, which has the wooden floor boards under the carpet. The floor board over the spare wheel is liftable, and is attached to the board covering the hidden compartments by hinges. The board that is covering the hidden compartments are bolted down onto the hatch floor. It seems for me to access the hidden compartments, I would have to remove the entire carpet, then unbolt the entire wooden floor board. This doesn't sound very practical, unless I'm doing something wrong. Thx.

Just an update, but I think I solve the problem. I changed the fuel filter and I can WOT freely in the full RPM range. The old fuel filter had light brown gas coming out on both ends (inlet and outlet), kind of like tea. I thought I had a vacuum gauge on hand, but it was just a compression gauge, so I didn't do the vacuum test yet. Also I had a fuel pressure gauge on order, so I'm waiting for that to come in. My fuel pressure is definitely leaking because when I unhooked my fuel filter, gas didn't squirt out as it should, but just dribbled out (I didn't bother to release the pressure prior to unhooking the filter because I already knew there won't be pressure after a few days of sitting). We'll see how long this lasts. Thanks everyone!

I haven't washed my car in over a year, and it's been dry here for about a couple weeks. This car was recently resurrected about 1 month ago (from sitting for 1 year). I run it a few times a week, and I can even drive it aggressively with no issues up to redline. But last night is when I actually did super sudden WOT and that's when I found out the popping surging issues. But I'll do the TPS check. Thanks!

Yeah, I got the FSM. I will try those series of troubleshoot tests when I get a chance. Thanks! I actually have a leak in my exhaust (possibly at the header), and I see a slight gap at my down tube. I can smell exhaust fumes from my engine bay, and my eyes stings if I stand there too long. Clothes will soak with exhaust odor within 10 minutes of being around the engine bay. Also, another issue that might be related is that I lose fuel pressure after the car sits. If I let it sit for 1 or 2 days, it takes about 4 cranks to get it started. It stumbles really bad when it's trying to crank up, but once it cranks up, it idles fine. The car will startup instantly after I turn off the car and back on. I usually get time on the weekends to mess with the car, so I'll keep everyone updated on my tests and findings then. List of todo: - Vacuum check - TPS and other electrical component checks via FSM - Fuel pressure check

I'll check the vacuum first thing when I get a chance. Thanks. Just to add to the information, if I am idling, and then super instantly slam on the gas pedal to the floor, it will almost stall out for a second, but will the rev up. I think this issue and the one in the original post is related to each other somehow. It feels as if gas can't keep up with the sudden WOTs (but gradual WOT will work smoothly up to redline).

It happens even if crusing around and i put the pedal to the floor, it will pop and surge around 3500rpm. I have no problem driving it fast and such, but only when i floor it all the way. I will check out what you guys mentioned. Thanks!

What works: - Idles smooth - If gradually accelerating, the engine runs smooth throughout the entire power-band with no issues Problem: - During idle, if pressing gas pedal all the way down suddenly, it will rev up to about 3500rpm, backfires and surges, and the rpm will drop to about 2500rpm and rev back up at 3500rpm and keep repeating as long as it's at WOT. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

Thanks guys. The information and part numbers provided is extremely helpful!

I can't remember if I already asked you, but I can't find any PM's to you. If not... Do you still have it? And do you have a picture of it?

Is the 280Z stock air box filter less restrictive than an aftermarket cone intake? If you compare both filter styles, the stock filter seems to have as much surface area. Stock: Aftermarket cone: If you were to unroll the cone filter, it would seem to be the same size as the stock filter. The stock air box doesn't look that restrictive either: I was just wondering. I have the aftermarket cone intake, but was considering putting in a stock air box if there was no actual gains from having aftermarket.

I have a 1977 280z, with 5-speed transmission. Do I have a FS5W71A or a FS5W71B? I am getting mixed research results. According to an official Nissan Service manual for a 1977 280z, it says I have a FS5W71B. According to an eBay listing (and other online shops) for a 1977 280z transmission rebuild kit, it's listed for FS5W71A. Basically, I need a transmission rebuild kit, but can only find ones for FS5W71A, I'm having a hard time finding one for FS5W71B.

Technically it does lose it's stiffness since the 90 degrees bend is gone. I believe the only way it would make a difference for me is if someone was to kick it.

Thanks!! The Eastwood Fender Roller tool is roughly $250-270. But there are rental programs, which is about $60. http://www.google.com/products?client=safari&rls=en&q=fender+roller+rental&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=B8lmTOHcHoT48Aalk9CyBA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDYQrQQwAg My cousin and I bought one because we use it quite frequently.

Ha yea, we do have very similar car! I'd like to paint the lower half of my car the body color (currently black).

Fender rolling completed: (The dimple shown is a factory spot weld, but is not visible on the outside) Finished: *** For more photos of this car: LINK

My rear tire sidewalls were rubbing against the rear quarter panel's lip: Quarter panel's lip before rolling: (the tire actually caught on the lip, and yanked it downwards slightly) Have the car up on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Mounting the fender roller tool: Adding the lug nut washers: Lug nuts on, and slightly tightened: What the tool looks like fully mounted: Since I'm working on the rear, the e-brakes will need to be released. Tool is positioned with slight pressure on the panel lips. Red knob tightened to lock the tool length in place. Head roller angle is also tightened and locked into place: With slight pressure already on the panel lip, rotate the tool left and right several times. Lip starts to slightly curl: Use the lever to add more pressure on to the panel lip, and rotate the tool left and right several times again. Repeat this step until the panel lip is folded enough to clear the tire: Some paint cracking depending how much the lip is folded: (Paint cracking maybe reduced if a heat gun was used prior to rolling)

Thanks everyone!! @Shade133: This was taken at a plaza in Duluth, Georgia. The plaza is about over 5 years old, but is about 75% never used and vacant, as if it's still brand new. The weather was actually extremely hot. I was sweating the whole time taking photos. About 95 degrees F!

1977 - 280z Eibach lowering springs with 240z rear top strut hat (lowers additional 1 inch). Panasport wheels Larger photos here: http://www.rimtuck.com/setup.php?id=1066

Has anyone found a way to drop the rear suspensions without having to remove the brake lines? I need to work on my rear suspension again. I should replace my hard brake lines with longer brake hose ಠ_ಠ

That's funny, because I'm trying to lower my rear. I'm bought some 240z top spring perches for the rear (not as thick as my 280z rear top spring perches). They are suppose to lower the rear about 1". I listed my 280z spring numbers in couple posts above, so see if you really received the 280z springs.