RT Hunter

I have a 280z with Eibach springs. I have installed them correctly, and there is barely any gap in the front (possibly 1 finger gap), and I have about 2 finger gap in the rear. Since this is for the 280z, it may sit different from the 240z. Just to mention: If my car was raised with wheels off the ground, the front spring becomes loose, but the rear is not. But when I installed the rear springs, it almost fit perfectly. Not loose, nor did I need to compress the spring. According to other people who have installed correctly, also said the front springs will be loose with wheels off the ground. 6303.001 - fronts 6303.002 - rears (longer and progressive)

Not sure if it's a wrap. Articles say it's a carbon fiber shell. shrug??

Rocky Auto carbon fiber Z Vid: Pix: http://prolifik-one.com/2010/05/26/rocky-auto-carbon-fiber-s30-z/ http://prolifik-one.com/2010/06/29/part-ii-rocky-auto-carbon-fiber-s30-z/

Is it bad to remove the air regulator completely? I only drive my car in the warm anyways, and the air regulator is getting in the way of my strut bar. If it is not bad to have the regulator removed, then I don't mind having rough idle until the car warms up, nor do I mind pressing the gas pedal a tad until it's warmed up.

I was wondering has anyone here installed Twice Pipes with stock header? How does it sound? Still loud? I really don't want to pay 300+ for aftermarket header if it doesn't improve performance much. But I do want some nice sound

Yea, I checked the link out, but no solution I don't think it's fuel pressure issue related. (if you're meaning that it loses pressure after sitting) Because then, it would also have hard cold startups. My 280z has perfect cold start ups. Hot start ups are fine too, but not when it has sat 15-20mins. But if it sat for an hour or longer, then it starts up fine.

I have a 280z, and have the same issue. Rough idle after the car is hot, and turned off for 15mins. But starts up in the cold perfect!

Now I'm pretty upset. My suspension is all stock, and when i check the camber before/after specs, they barely changed. And I think they only changed because of caster/toe being changed, which affected the camber a bit. That dealership charged me $106. BTW, I live in Duluth, GA. thanks!

Hi, thanks for the input. I think I could try to do the camber, because it's easier to measure. but how do you measure toes? I brought it to the dealership, and they set all my camber to positive! And they decided to use 1979 280ZX alignment settings because it was closest specs they could find to use..... ' eh

Does anyone know where's a good place in GA to get an alignment? I brought my 280z to a Nissan dealership, and was very disappointed. I need to know a place where they know what they are doing. Thanks

My cousin has a 240z and says he can give me his Eibach springs. I have a 280z. Few questions.... - Will it even fit or seat properly? - Will it make my 280z lower than Eibach spring that were made for the 280z?

Sorry, I mean "throttle body".

What is the outer diameter of the 280z TB? I know it's smaller than 3". Is it 2.75"? Thanks!

Thanks guys! Well, I'm not trying to be cheap, but just don't want to be ripped off if they are in fact both of equal quality... shrug

I need a new brake master cylinder, and noticed eBay has them going from $45 - $150+ Here is the $45: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eaa4dcc04QQitemZ200425720836QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Here is the $150+: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Brake-Master-Cylinder-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563b05f922QQitemZ370357434658QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories What's the difference? Could I just use the $45 version, and put my original plastic reservoirs on them? BTW, this is for my 77 280z

Oh okay, thanks! I installed the R/T mount-bracket thing from the group buy. So I guess I'll leave that plate off for now and see how it goes...

Picture attached. I outline the part in question. What is it's purpose? It's really heavy (~5lbs), and has layers welded together. It's bolted onto the bar, but I can't see any purpose. I took it off to do something with the differential, but didn't bother to put it back on when I put everything back together.

That's weird. My 77 has a block off plate instead of the light. The plate doesn't look home-made either, looks stock. hm.... EDIT: Nevermind, I found out it's only for California versions.

Alright, it only needed the linkage to be adjust. But the reason why I didn't think about it in the first place is that it never did this before. When I went to adjust the linkage, the lock nut was still tight. So it "could" be the master/slave cylinder starting to seep? Oh well. I'll see how long this will last....

My forward gears actually go in smooth without a problem. But doing what everyone else advised (google), which is to put it in forward gear first, then into reverse, and that works good for me. No grinding. I will check my linkage, maybe my clutch is dragging.

oh, if the clutch is not fully disengage, wouldn't it grind in forward gears also?

I'll check that. But if it had an internal leak, (fluid passing through internal seals), then I wouldn't know if it's actually working or not, right?

I searched and read that to prevent reverse shift grinding is to shift into a gear, then into reverse. This worked for me to help prevent the reverse grinding, but is this normal? Does a brand new 280z do this also? Just detail my symptoms: 1. Clutch pedal all the way down 2. Car is at complete stop with foot on the brake (Car never moved, I just started it up in drive way) 3. Shift into Reverse and it grinds Why? If I shift it fast and with force, it'll go into gear with couple of teeth grinding with a slight clunk (probably because something is rotating and stopped all of a sudden). So what I did was slowly push the gear very gently until it starts barely grinding just to see how fast it's rotating, and it's rotating pretty slow, but continually.

Nah, it's not your fault. You stated on the groupbuy what forms of payment you only accept. If I were you, I wouldn't have even taken the payment, or instead request additional payment for the fee before sending out the order. As a moderate seller myself, it gets pretty irritating. I recently listed a set of rims on eBay, and on the very first line of the description I put "Local pickup only, any questions about shipping will be ignored". Well, within 12 hours, I got a first message asking how much to charge to ship to Cananda. :stupid::stupid::stupid:

Will that bend try to straighten out gradually if the diff keeps thrusting up?