woytovich

What size for the boots? http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?Ne=1%2b2%2b3%2b1147708%2b1147708&Ntt=ES+Urethane+Tie&langId=-1&Ntk=all&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&N=4294966333&Nty=0

Do you have an opinion on Moog parts?

Ok... I'm hoping to do it "all" while I have this apart. I would LOVE to have a parts list for the necessary parts... Ball joints wheel bearings all the rubber bits: sway bar bushings etc etc etc... (OEM? Aftermarket?) I would like to place 1 order and get it all... I DO NOT want to get halfway done and find I forgot to order some silly part and have to wait a week to get this thing buttoned up. Does anyone have a "kit" or list I can use as a starting point? Mark

I see OEM vs aftermarket ball joints are $118 vs $38. I don't want to be penny-wise and pound-foolish BUT that is a $160 difference...

Outer tie rod = 11 (and unnumbered passenger side (US) tie rod)? Inner tie rod = 8/9?

My car only has 91k on it BUT it was sitting in a garage for 25+ years... can you say "dry rot"? I want to everything here in the front that makes sense "while I have it apart". Mark

So... 11, 8/9... yes? What else?

Thanks...I just looked at the FSM...ball joints! I suspect you are on the right track... better safe than sorry in any case with this stuff... Any recommended parts source for this stuff? Nissan? NAPA? Mark

Well I'm finally getting to pull the front brakes apart on my recently acquired 71 240z. The rotors need to be replaced (or turned at least) as they are pretty rusty. The calipers need to be checked yet. I will probably replace the pads just because they have been sitting for 25 years untouched - they have plenty of thickness. Any comments on that part of the process are welcome as well but my primary concern here is the tie rods/ends and the ball joints. In the attached pictures the front suspension is just hanging as the car is supported from the center jack point. Are the tie rod ends trashed or do just look like this? To me they look like they should be pulled up tighter to the top. Same question for the ball joint... is it bad? The wheel bearings seem ok, I am not sure if I cam going to replace them... THANKS!!! Mark

All good info... keep it coming. THANKS

Also... what tools will I need to get the diff and associate parts off the car?

Thanks... R200 diff - different ratio? stronger? half-shafts & diff flanges & mustache bar - match to diff? stronger? rear drums - "better"? why? alternator - higher amp? along with whatever else you see that you can afford... - that's a pretty general statement. Prices are this yard are typically dirt cheap...

Anybody?

I will be at a pick n pull next week that has a 1976 280z. I don't know if it's auto or manual. I have a 71 240z. What, if anything, should I consider pulling for my 71 (I am generally keeping it stock but would consider stealth upgrades - ones that are helpful to the experience but don't change the visuals much) - 5 speed (if so, what ancillary bits and pieces should I score?) - Seats (mine are pretty trashed, I'd prefer period correct but would consider other options, f they look right) - what else? Also: what is worth scoring for it's resale value? (accepting requests - prices will be very fair to those requesting in advance) Thanks, Mark

I did add it to another spreadsheet somewhere... I'll add it to this one too... I found it on Craigslist... it was in NJ, stored in a heated garage and forgotten about since 1985! Mark

Why do you say 72? With a sub-30000 VIN and 4/71 build date I can't imagine it's a victim of the transition/parts mixing that sometimes happened... Mark

Good weather progress: All new rubber fuel lines, most of the new coolant hoses installed (lower radiator and heater still to do), clutch master & slave replaced - lines bled, need final adjust, rear brakes: lots of Brakleen, one rubber hose replaced (the other looked to be relatively new - rubber soft & not cracked), drums pulled and buffed to clean up gunk/surface rust, replacing shoes tomorrow... then bleed 'em. Then check for proper cylinder operation. Passenger door lock reinstalled (after getting a key made), window mechanism lubed, door reassembled. Rear diff drained and refilled. Ahhh.. I LIKE this weather.

Don't want the wheels... shipping would be silly to pay for for used tires that are not so expensive new (and with a rad hazard warr)

I ended up getting a Pertronix set-up.

I was quoted $75-ish for an "OEM" clutch master at an auto parts store (not Nissan dealer)... What is the consensus on these... aftermarket? OEM? Is there a reliable, well priced online source? Do not know about the brake parts but I'll be careful until I do... same question as above regarding a parts source. Mark

In an effort to get the car started for the first time I used Marvel Mystery Oil... Is this a REALLY BAD THING? (I've read that it's about 5wt) Should I swap it out for something else? Mark

Thanks... hard to believe they shine up link that!

"they are even cooler, 195/70HR14 Michelin XVS" correct, I wish they weren't all dry rotted... "vintage Cibié H4s" correct "and the mirror is a real Italian Vittaloni" correct. (was this a common aftermarket swap? I wish the one from the passenger side was still there - all that's left is the base) AMAZING that you could gleen this from the photos... you have quite an eye for this stuff! "As I said before, the previous owner was not afraid to pay for the best. Bodes well for other parts of the car, I should think." I do hope so...

What makes a tire look "vintage" for cars of this era? I'm looking at the Pirelli P400 TOURING based on price but I'm not overly impressed with the look... I'm looking at the tirerack and mavis (http://www.mavistire.com) tire websites... I'm trying to learn what makes a tire look 1971 240z period correct... (or incorrect) Mark

Any other "original tall-sidewall look" recommendations?