Zed Head

https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/stainless-steel-cable-ties

I had second thoughts on my 8 mm comment above. I searched around and do see the 7.5 mm number on several forums. But I've seen in the past that sometimes a single post somewhere on the internet will propogate, especially if there is no valid source to refer to. All I've found so far is people like me above saying XX is the proper number. Anyway, 5/16" fuel injection hose has worked for many, including myself. 7.5 mm is an odd number for an engineer to choose. 8 makes sense, 7.5 doesn't. Another puzzle to work on.

You can test it on the running engine if you have a timing light. And you can test for a cracked diaphragm by sucking on the hose.

It's not obvious. I had to think about it some when I was doing mine. https://www.beswick.com/resources/what-they-didnt-teach-you-about-fittings-in-engineering-school/ ". The sharp barb digs into the inside diameter of the tubing making a high pressure contact and providing a leaktight seal. Properly designed barbed fittings allow the tubing to be easily pushed onto the fitting but make it difficult to pull off."

8 mm is the original size (maybe). That works out to 5.04/16". 5/16" is actually tighter than factory. The barbs on the injector do the work to hold the pressure. The sharp edges create a tight seal. I just jammed mine on and had no problems over many many miles. The procedure in the FSM works fine.

Wide open adds 27% more than the base setting.

Sounds like the not uncommon lean air-fuel mix. For whatever reason - changes in fuel, degrading electronics, etc. - the EFI systems don't work the same today as they did then. The fix is to add resistance to the coolant temperature signal that the ECU uses. Where to find a potentiometer is, somewhat ironically, more difficult in today's Amazon'ed world. Radio Shack and Fry's stores are not around anymore. Blue wrote up a nice description. It's pretty simple, and you can test it in the engine bay before making it permanent. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html p.s. make sure to set the AFM back exactly where it was.

My response probably wasn't 100% clear. In my case, I didn't check for fuel in the cylinders, but I did check for spark. It was weak. So I tried the ether and it started and kept running. That told me that the injectors were working and had fuel, and that there was sufficient spark once it was running. Plus I was aware of how finicky the ignition modules can be since I'd had my original fail in an odd way, and had been reading about them. And I knew that I had recently messed up by running the engine with two spark plug leads hanging. So, if it starts and keeps running with ether it's probably a bad module. If it starts then dies immediately with ether it's probably a fuel problem.

I had a damaged GM HEI module once that produced weak orange spark. It would only start with starting fluid, even on a warm engine. (I damaged it by leaving two spark plugs disconnected and starting the engine after working on it). I swapped the module to a new one and it fired right up, as normal. You might try using starting fluid to see what happens. If it starts that would show that everything else is in proper condition. The GM HEI module works in the same way as the Nissan ZX module.

Stumbled across this interesting comparison of MIG, TIG, and laser welding. The resto guys might be interested. I'm amazed at how powerful these laser tools are. I grew up learning about water jet cutting, which seemed amazing, then plasma, then laser cutting. And now we have laser welding. I learned how to arc weld in 7th grade shop class. Feels kind of useless today. Oh well. Progress.

Might have been Koni. Probably in one of these threads. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+bump+stop

Many people don't use bump stops. I think that those hard polyurethane stops probably limit travel. By at least an inch, I'd guess. There used to be another option out there, of softer foam. Can't remember the brand. Are your shocks/struts original or have they already been changed to inserts? KYB shocks worked well on my 76. They seem to have a good reputation around the automotive world. I put them on my truck, They work great. They're cheaper at RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1970,240z,2.4l+l6,1209147,suspension,shock+/+strut,7556

Yikes. Wire nuts. Not yours though. Take that distributor apart and check the breaker plate bearing holder. It's plastic and they break if there's rust and it's forced to move. You've probably seen similar on other cars of course, but worth a reminder. Good luck, maybe start a rebuild thread here. https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/2026/02/07/1978-datsun-280z/

https://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/

The foam might be the remains of an "ASSY-BUMPER BOUND". AKA bump stop. I've never seen one myself. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension/46 Lowering spring options seem limited. There used to be some choices, like Vogtland, but I don't know what's out there today.