Zed Head

@EuroDat might have some thoughts.

I installed my plug wires in backwards rotational order once and the engine started but ran like you-know-what. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise is correct. It must have been running on two cylinders, I'd guess. I was surprised. 1-4-2-6-3-5

There are other possibilities. Maybe somebody overcleaned the case mating surface at the adapter plate. Maybe the countershaft drive gear isn't fully seated. Maybe the countershaft itself is not pulled back all the way by the nut. I don't know what stops the shaft when you tighten the nut. I didn't read through the assembly procedure to see how the various steps are checked. I've had some transmissions apart but have not rebuilt any. Just tossing some things out there to think about.

Any chance the bearing is not fully seated on the gear?

That might be because the wire is not seated fully in the cap.

Garden flies

Sounds pretty cool. I was posting more for the planner type people out here that might want to know what they'd need to do the conversion and what they're getting. Personally, I like to have a complete picture in my head, and a list of parts I'll need, before I even start buying. Some things seem like they must already be defined/known. Why not just supply the information? Part number and length. A person could give the info to good driveshaft shop and have it ready to go. (p.s. Nissan calls it a propeller shaft). "Additional Components RequiredTo complete the installation the following components are required: Custom driveshaft with the correct transmission yoke and length" Here's a link to Nostalgic Hero. Japan seems like a fun place. https://nosweb.jp/nostalgichero

Did you disconnect the old ignition module by the fuse box? You might have dueling ignition modules. The 123 has its own internal ignition module. Give some detail on your car. Has it ever run right for you?

This Thursday post just popped up in the middle of some more recent posts. How does that work? It's on the "Topics Last Thirty Days" page. /112/ @Mike

I wonder if anyone has installed one yet. Would be interesting to see one of the S30.world cars with it in place. They have a good set of pictures on the page. Interesting that the clutch fork pivot ball is not included. And, what is the threaded hole next to the pivot ball boss? Would also like to see the aluminum transmission mounts. Is it the full crossmember or an adapter for the existing crossmember? And, information on the slip yoke would be good to have. Apparently, the slip yoke from the 71B transmssions won't work? Looks like a good price for a good product. Something to talk about... https://shop.s30.world/product/nismo-32010-rrs50-reinforced-6-speed-transmission-to-l-series-conversion-kit

Different ends of the originality spectrum. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-403/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-370/

Not clear which side you're measuring from. This illustration might help. Don't overlook that there are two power circuits - one for Start, one for Run. Might be worth checking and cleaning up the ballast resistor connections. Also notice that full ignition power runs through the ignition switch, apparently (I've never worked on a 72). From the 1972 FSM -

This is pretty funny.

https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-user-guide-threadlocking.pdf You're right, permanent is probably best. Don't want the insert backing out on a starter removal. Blue for the bolts, red for the insert.

What type of insert are you using? Blue thread locker is probably enough. Red is for extreme situations. I used to run a long hose with a funnel from the engine bay down to the transmission fill hole. Just fill it to overflow. A little messy but not as messy as those screw-on pumps can be by the time you get done.