Zed Head

The different hole patterns might be for the coupe and 2+2 pressure plates. By the way, common wording is either pressure plate and/or clutch cover. The pressure plate bolts will pull the cover down to the flywheel. They are what apply the force that creates the friction that allows the clutch assembly to transfer power. It's important to tighten the bolts evenly to avoid warping the cover. As you tighten the bolts the pressure plate springs will take a load. Patcon posted while I was writing...

That is unusual. Have you stuck the pin through the hole in the pressure plate? The main purpose is alignment. Here's a Nissan pin. It's pressed in. If it was loose it could fall out. https://www.thezstore.com/product/1026/factory-clutch-dowel-pin-70-96-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-z31-z32

I think it's meant to be permanent. That's why they are using high temperature compound. Most dowel pins are an interference fit and need to be tapped in. It's actually odd that Fidanza's are not. Might be that they made the holes too big and chose the retaining compound as a fix. If you're planning to remove the dowels after torquing the pressure plate down then don't use any retaining compound. The Loctite data sheet is an interesting read. Retaining compounds are pretty durable. It should be fine to leave the dowels in place.

"Super glue's" cure in the absence of air. So, in the gap between the dowel and the metal of the flywheel in this case. I'd just put a drop on the dowel surface itself before inserting it in the hole. Give it a spin as you insert it. Capillary forces will spread it around the gap, then it will cure. You'll probably see some uncured material at the edge of the holes but you can just wipe that off or leave it. https://www.huyett.com/adrc03-17ht-gn1m It's going to be a lot like this Loctite product. Might even be made by Loctite. https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-660-en_GL.pdf

https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/stainless-steel-cable-ties

I had second thoughts on my 8 mm comment above. I searched around and do see the 7.5 mm number on several forums. But I've seen in the past that sometimes a single post somewhere on the internet will propogate, especially if there is no valid source to refer to. All I've found so far is people like me above saying XX is the proper number. Anyway, 5/16" fuel injection hose has worked for many, including myself. 7.5 mm is an odd number for an engineer to choose. 8 makes sense, 7.5 doesn't. Another puzzle to work on.

You can test it on the running engine if you have a timing light. And you can test for a cracked diaphragm by sucking on the hose.

It's not obvious. I had to think about it some when I was doing mine. https://www.beswick.com/resources/what-they-didnt-teach-you-about-fittings-in-engineering-school/ ". The sharp barb digs into the inside diameter of the tubing making a high pressure contact and providing a leaktight seal. Properly designed barbed fittings allow the tubing to be easily pushed onto the fitting but make it difficult to pull off."

8 mm is the original size (maybe). That works out to 5.04/16". 5/16" is actually tighter than factory. The barbs on the injector do the work to hold the pressure. The sharp edges create a tight seal. I just jammed mine on and had no problems over many many miles. The procedure in the FSM works fine.

Wide open adds 27% more than the base setting.

Sounds like the not uncommon lean air-fuel mix. For whatever reason - changes in fuel, degrading electronics, etc. - the EFI systems don't work the same today as they did then. The fix is to add resistance to the coolant temperature signal that the ECU uses. Where to find a potentiometer is, somewhat ironically, more difficult in today's Amazon'ed world. Radio Shack and Fry's stores are not around anymore. Blue wrote up a nice description. It's pretty simple, and you can test it in the engine bay before making it permanent. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html p.s. make sure to set the AFM back exactly where it was.

My response probably wasn't 100% clear. In my case, I didn't check for fuel in the cylinders, but I did check for spark. It was weak. So I tried the ether and it started and kept running. That told me that the injectors were working and had fuel, and that there was sufficient spark once it was running. Plus I was aware of how finicky the ignition modules can be since I'd had my original fail in an odd way, and had been reading about them. And I knew that I had recently messed up by running the engine with two spark plug leads hanging. So, if it starts and keeps running with ether it's probably a bad module. If it starts then dies immediately with ether it's probably a fuel problem.

I had a damaged GM HEI module once that produced weak orange spark. It would only start with starting fluid, even on a warm engine. (I damaged it by leaving two spark plugs disconnected and starting the engine after working on it). I swapped the module to a new one and it fired right up, as normal. You might try using starting fluid to see what happens. If it starts that would show that everything else is in proper condition. The GM HEI module works in the same way as the Nissan ZX module.

Stumbled across this interesting comparison of MIG, TIG, and laser welding. The resto guys might be interested. I'm amazed at how powerful these laser tools are. I grew up learning about water jet cutting, which seemed amazing, then plasma, then laser cutting. And now we have laser welding. I learned how to arc weld in 7th grade shop class. Feels kind of useless today. Oh well. Progress.

Might have been Koni. Probably in one of these threads. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+bump+stop