Zed Head

I was going to post the Cream version but went a little farther back. People are digging up these old recordings all over the place. Pretty amazing.

The well-traveled 71 only got $12,500. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-324/

Yeah, the pictures were about the wheel positions. I mean, the seller put them right out there for everyone to see. Still got $31,000. Not bad for what looks like a car that might have smacked a curb or something.

Bidding is on right now. Check out these two pictures.

Recently I've seen a few classic cars for sale on BaT by sellers that don't seem to know much about what collectors are looking for. Here's a 1971 240Z that has some interesting comments. The seller uses the typical "Series 1" terminology but then doesn't know where the firewall VIN is stamped. Lesson for owners - find a knowledgable seller if you want to get maximum value from your car. This one has a big gouge out of the paint now, even though you could see the number through the paint anyway. Yikes. Lanciafan (The Seller) This author's likes: 1,262 @Pivo, we are not sure what firewall vin you are referring to? I have looked in the motor bay but don’t see any other numbers. Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z Series I 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #201,028.

This is possible. Unbolt the MC from the booster and pull it forward a bit. Fluid will leak out if the rear seal of the MC is leaking. If you do find a leak you might be able to save the booster if you clean out the brake fluid from inside. Not sure what the best way to do that would be. Maybe water, since brake fluid and water are compatible.

Stumbled across this transmission mount for sale on eBay. $200 for a crossmember and broken mount. Wow. If I'd known that prices would be so high I might have held on to some of my parts collection. https://ebay.us/m/O5Lr3p

Not sure what it means but I misspelled hoses above as hosea. Prophet of Doom. No offense intended to anyone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosea

This is the book you want for doing your electrical tests. It is more clear than the FSM. Do your testing at the ECU plug and get actual reistance readings if you can. The water temperature sensor is important for determining the fuel-air ratio. Make a list of each reading. Most people go too fast looking for the quick find and fix. Then they have to go back and do it all over again. Been there. If the reading at the ECU is wrong then work your way out to the engine. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ The smoke from the throttle body would be through the auxiliary air regulator (AAR). It is open when cold to allow a high idle speed. It's the torpedo shaped thing with two big hosea and an electrical connector. Not sure what's up with the fuel pump readings since the engine started. If you get it running well engough to drive it and it pops back and bucks, try the fuel tweak. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Deeper and deeper he goes...😈

Oops. My post was about the "maybe". We're still on maybe. Maybe somebody has a 240Z and a 280Z switch that they could compare. Not that it would matter much. Just interesting.

Did Nissan ever sell the internals separately? All I see is whole assemblies.

I wonder if it's more of an early Z problem. Looks like Nissan changed the switch a few times over the years. Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch...Datsun Z Electric Unit & Switch (2) Index

There's nothing stopping the fluid flow when bleeding, that's why the pedal drops to the floor. The fact that the pedal is hard after bleeding shows the bleeding was effective. All of the air was removed. Before, when you were pumping the pedal you were comnpressing air in the hydraulic lines. Brake fluid is not very compressible, air is. Overall, really, what you're describing just sounds like a booster that's not boosting. No vacuum source or a mechanical problem internally. The system is designed for the force amplification of the vacuum booster. A simple test for a bad booster is to press the pedal with the engine off and note the distance, then compare it to a press with the engine on. The pedal should sink more with the engine on. You changed several parts at the same time so it can be hard to figure out which part had which effect. I would first confirm that you have vacuum to the booster. Do the test above or just start the engine and remove the hose from the booster. The engine should rev higher or die. If it does, you have a booster problem. If it doesn't yoor vacuum hose is blocked.

It would help to be more specific on what "bleed the brakes" means. Are you saying that with a bleeder valve open the pedal will go to the floor and squirt a bunch of fluid? That would mean your pedal and MC are working as they should. The booster just adds force on top of the MC pistons. Does each caliper squirt the same amount of fluid with the same amount of pedal travel? When you say not much braking pressure do you mean the car does not slow down? Even though the pedal is pushed as far as it will go? It sounds like the hydraulics are working correctly but the pads aren't creating enough friction. Any chance you got some silicone lube or grease on the pads? I'd also take a hard look at the proportioning valve. If it's set for too much rear bias you won't get much stopping power from the fronts. Good luck. Interesting problem. Or, ignore all of that and assume that you have a bad booster. Maybe put the old one back on if you still have it. Also, check your check valve in the booster vacuum hose. Make sure you're actually pulling vacuum at the booster nipple.

Some noise.