Zed Head

Here's another from CZCC. I seem to enjoy this topic.

This post from the past on Hybridz is informative. Says that the wire is not connected in the cabin. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83355-wiring-in-electric-fuel-pump/?do=findComment&comment=789840

Edit - and congratulations. Looks like a solid car. This is 1972. It shows an inline fuse. Not sure where it is though. But the diagram shows it by the fuse panel.

That's the fuel damper. It absorbs pressure pulses, from one end or the other. Not much to it and they seem to survive without problems. Don't forget that pressure after the pump is at least 36.3 psi. Those small plastic filters aren't rated for that. I made a loop in my fuel line after the pump to solve that sharp bend problem.

I recognize the beat, never saw the video or heard the whole song. A song about drugs, with a "don't do it" disclaimer in the middle. They even shout freebase, and (co)ca(i)ne... sugar. Drugs. rang dang diggity da rang da dang Of course, Eric Clapton turned an old blues song about cocaine in to a big hit. Rock and roll...

Somebody must have done this one since the thread started.

A video by an electronics teacher explaining why some relays have extra stuff inside. Uses some words I've wondered about in the past. I don't know much about it but it's kind of interesting.

If the light is right you can probably see the notches through the hole. In practice you just jam a small screwdriver in the hole until you feel it grabbing the notches of the adjusting wheel, Keep jabbing to get the wheel to move. It's kind of tedious, you don't get much movement per unit of effort.

There's a hole in the brake drum. Had a rubber plug in it. Might still be there.

Z's don't. No guarantee that the drums will come off even if you back the adjusting wheel off. People have had to sacrifice the drums if they're really stuck. But, the best place to start is the instructions in the FSM. Back off the wheel, see what happens.

Actually...

Were you shipping as a company/corporation or as a private individual? I had wondered if S30.world's paperwork problems were actually tariff problems. I wonder if the guy buying the E30 head had driven across the border to purchase it, would he have had to pay the tariffs? Or how much trouble would he get in to if he didn't declare any purchases. Or called it a personal item. In a way, it is. https://www.cbp.gov/travel/us-citizens/canada-mexico-travel#:~:text=All%20articles%20acquired%20in%20Canada,TTB)%20regarding%20individual%20state%20requirements.

It doesn't really matter which terminal has the condenser attached. It's there to stop electrical noise.

Just leave the condenser disconnected. You don't need it for now. You can also just connect both of the wires from the ballast resistor (the block) to the coil positive. You don't need it when you use the HEI module.

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Here's a good one. Couldn't wait for Saturday. https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ?si=grkFLcz2wcNdPoJP

The VR Z did not reach its reserve. Didn't get to its last sale price either. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/

Thanks for replying. From out here, the post reader, the sigh sure does look like a comment. Just couldn't tell what the comment was about.

The original struts used special oil. Aftermarket strut insert replacements don't need any oil. Not sure what you're working on. p.s. if you click Signature, put stuff in the box, and save it, it will show up at the bottom of your posts. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.

It's just snark if you don't follow it with something useful. Are you sighing the pan question or the build details?

I have a vague memory that the ZX pan works in a Z. But, since you have both why not measure to be sure? How much "building" will you be doing on the turbo engine? You know that it has a lower CR than an NA engine, right?

So close. I almost went for it. You even left an ellipsis to draw people in. Well done, again. You are a master at baiting people... p.s. proper grammar would use the word "directly", I believe, not direct.