Zed Head

I'd just go with the Canada spec if your ignition system is factory stock. Assume that the Nissan engineers had a reason. On the other hand though, you're also running projector tip plugs. Many people do, but I don't think that anyone has actually shown a difference. The "P" plug was used in the 80-83 280ZX engines.

The spark plug spec'ed for Canada is a resistor plug, BR____ . So with resistor wires and resistor plugs they might have decided that the smaller gap is necessary to avoid misses. Weird that they doubled up on resistance, but that's what they show. Maybe Canada had sensitive electronics at the time. If you're running non-resistor plugs I'd run the larger gap. Generally, larger gap is better for performance/economy. A more complete burn. Edit - I see in your other thread that you're running resistor plugs, but it also looks like NGK resistor plug wires n the backgorund. You could switch to non-resistor plugs. Or wait unitl the next tune-up, to save the money.

Didn't realize that new members had to pay to open an account. That's new. Might help explain the lack of new members. I would consider giving new members a free trial period, so that they can see if they like being in the club. Just trying to be helpful, not abusive. Good luck.

Secondary is from the center terminal to either of the posts. The low voltage might indicate a problem with the ignition module. It's on the end of the negative terminal circuit. If you can contort yourself down under the dash by the fusebox you could unplug the ignition module, turn the key on, and see if you still have the big voltage drop. That is actually a big drop, like starter motor level drop. If there's a short in the ignition module on the negative side that might also explain the hot coil. It should also cause ignition problems if the circuit doesn't get broken to create a spark. You could also disconnect the blue wire from the coil negative terminal and see if there is still only 10 volts at the coil terminals with the key on.. Also, to be clear, when you are measuring the voltage, are you measuring from one coil post to ground? Here's a diagram of the ignition circuit. I would also unplug the condenser and take some measurements. It seems like you might have a component failing and drawing current. Actually, I would unplug the condenser and measure first, then disconnect the blue wire and measure. From coil post to gorund with the key on. See what you get. o

That is the right way to measure. Resistance should be 0.84 - 1.02 ohms. You said that you were going to measure voltage. Also, that the two coils produced the same problem. Are you still working on the problem of the engine quitting suddenly?

I would make sure that you have ~ 36 psi of fuel pressure. The whole system is designed around that number. The vacuum switch is probably for the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. Vacuum advance is turned off on the manual transmission cars in gear 1 - 3, I assume for emissions. I would just bypass the switch and run full time vacuum advance. The stalling might be because the plug has fallen out of the bottom of the AFM. That happened to me once. Those funky wire clips on the plug are hard to get fully seated and they didn't leave much slack in the harness under there.

There's nothing to manage. It's just a single thread in which to talk about Z's that are being sold or have sold. As opposed to multiple individual threads. If you read back through the posts you'll see that the concept works. Even Mike has commented here.

That is a "colder" than spec spark plug. Might be why the electrode on 1, 2, and 5 are dirty. The white ash on 3, 4, and 6 looks pretty good, but still on the cold side. Have you adjusted the valve lash? It looks like you have some cylinder imbalance. https://www.ngk.com.au/technical_info/heat-range/

The injectors open after every third spark. Spraying half of the fuel called for. You can test by spinning the engine with the starter or by disconnecting a wire from the coil and tapping it to its terminal quickly, with the key on. There will be a small spark each time and one of the spark plugs will spark so be careful. Every third tap should cause a squirt of all six injectors.

Hate to complain but this inability to one-click to the last post is really a pain. And having the first post repeated on each page is too. Very cumbersome. Anyway, the 77 Turbo Z had an $11,000 Rebello engine installed after it was bought for $25,250 in 2018. Plus another $25,000 to have it all put together. $61,000 just to break even. Will it sell? Doubtful.

Interesting 77. Looks like the funds went toward the engine. Rebello Racing 3.0 with turbo. That exhaust pipe though..whoa. Bring a TrailerTurbocharged 1977 Datsun 280Z 5-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Turbocharged 1977 Datsun 280Z 5-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #182,877.

Here's a link to a US source. p.s. has anyone else noticed that people seem to be leaving words out of their sentences? You can figure it out but I've noticed it across the internet. It must have something do with writing on a video screen or something. Some kind of odd mental glitch. Very powerful what? Where's the subject of the sentence? "The STM PRO ! This small but very powerful is based on many months of research and development with testing!" Pro TunerZProTunerz STM PRO ECUThe STM PRO ! This small but very powerful is based on many months of research and development with testing! Smaller Foot print can install behind the kick panel with out cutting! More inputs and o...

The widths vary between brands. Just make sure that there is no groove worn on to the sealing area of the crankshaft. The seal does not have to be worn out to cause a wear groove. I just did a repair sleeve on a rear end pinion shaft. Big wide wear groove, not the typical thin seal spring wear. Oops, forgot a link - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604

Interesting. Where does this hose go to? That's the one that would go to the bottle.

Yes, it's strikethrough. Couldn't remember the name. It's here in the first box, but not the Edit box. Weird. I had one on my 76 but maybe it's an AC system only thing. I had AC.

The check valve is designed to let air pass out of the bottle and in to the intake manifold, (darn it, I knew I'd do that), but not from the manifold to the bottle. The hose with the check valve is the one that loops around to the tiny nipple on the top of the manifold. Suck on the valve to determine which end points toward the manifold.

Should work fine. If there's no leak you don't really need to add coolant. The ability to hold pressure will tell you. But if it doesn't hold pressure then you'll need to add coolant to see where it's leaking from. Unless you have good ears and can hear the air hissing out. I'm going to guess though that you might have problems getting the cap to fit correctly. Just the odds, the right size and fit might not be in the kit. You might get lucky though.

That's a lot of money for a one-time test. Why not just fill it with water, start the engine, and see what happens? Worst case you spill some water in the cabin. Put a towel under the valves and cleanup should be easy.

What testing method will you be using?

The system pressure will equalize without opening the valves, there's coolant on both sides. If you start the engine and let it get to temperature you'll generate pressure. The main concern would be that if there is a leak, it will be hot coolant instead of cold.

They can be switched. There's no mechanism inside the tank. The check valve is important though. Be careful with the hoses, they are an odd size and tend to split because they're so old. I spent a lot of time fixing mine, as they kept splitting at the ends, then the check valve went bad. Overall, it was a pain keeping everything working right.

I'm the one that reported my car(s) would not start with the tachometer disconnected. Actually, if I recall right, it was two cars, my 76 and a 78 parts car that had a good engine. The 76 phenomenon went away after I changed to an HEI ignition module. So, it seems to be a thing only with the factory ignition system. So, basically, if you try to start it without the dash installed and it doesn't start, don't freak out. You might just be the confirmation case. Good luck. One other thing to be aware of is stray wire ends that might be powered with the key on.

Just for fun, here are the bulb specs from the Owners Manual. Can you show a good picture of the type label on one of your bulbs? Just curious. Today's 57's seem to be slightly larger than yesterday's and don't fit the space very well. I don't think that 57X is available if I recall correctly, except for NOS eBay stuff.

This old thread might be helpful. It has links to other useful threads also.