Zed Head

There's nothing stopping the fluid flow when bleeding, that's why the pedal drops to the floor. The fact that the pedal is hard after bleeding shows the bleeding was effective. All of the air was removed. Before, when you were pumping the pedal you were comnpressing air in the hydraulic lines. Brake fluid is not very compressible, air is. Overall, really, what you're describing just sounds like a booster that's not boosting. No vacuum source or a mechanical problem internally. The system is designed for the force amplification of the vacuum booster. A simple test for a bad booster is to press the pedal with the engine off and note the distance, then compare it to a press with the engine on. The pedal should sink more with the engine on. You changed several parts at the same time so it can be hard to figure out which part had which effect. I would first confirm that you have vacuum to the booster. Do the test above or just start the engine and remove the hose from the booster. The engine should rev higher or die. If it does, you have a booster problem. If it doesn't yoor vacuum hose is blocked.

It would help to be more specific on what "bleed the brakes" means. Are you saying that with a bleeder valve open the pedal will go to the floor and squirt a bunch of fluid? That would mean your pedal and MC are working as they should. The booster just adds force on top of the MC pistons. Does each caliper squirt the same amount of fluid with the same amount of pedal travel? When you say not much braking pressure do you mean the car does not slow down? Even though the pedal is pushed as far as it will go? It sounds like the hydraulics are working correctly but the pads aren't creating enough friction. Any chance you got some silicone lube or grease on the pads? I'd also take a hard look at the proportioning valve. If it's set for too much rear bias you won't get much stopping power from the fronts. Good luck. Interesting problem. Or, ignore all of that and assume that you have a bad booster. Maybe put the old one back on if you still have it. Also, check your check valve in the booster vacuum hose. Make sure you're actually pulling vacuum at the booster nipple.

Some noise.

Context? Where did that come from? It is Saturday night of course... 🤩

I just grasped what you were saying here. Your first post was caused by putting the phone on your Hazard switch. Which has identified a Hazard switch problem (maybe) since all of the lights should have been flashing. Your second problem, which is apparently new, is that your turn signal doesn't seem to work at all. That could be caused by the turn signal switch in the combo switch itself, or the flasher, or the fuses. How long have you had the car? Was everything working correctly before you put your phone on the Hazard switch?

I think that's Al Allen, aka URGELIS.

Not really clear what the "current" problem is. Blinker won't go off would be a short to power problem. Blinker doesn't work at all would be an open circuit problem. Also not clear what you mean by "Both blinkers don't work (lights and dash indicators) ". Just trying to understand. The Hazard switch has a left and right circuit and its own power supply and flasher to flash the lights. I think that it could have been the source of the first problem. Does the left blinker still stay on when the key is off?

So, can we think up some simple tests to run, maybe at the flasher or the plug itself, that might show low resistance through the turn signal circuit? Or high resistance at the contacts. Any chance the flasher itself is pulling too much current? Or do we just assume that the cleaning and modification was not well done? Seems like the sliding contacts must have got gummed up. This is actually datsuniverse writing -

I found a "restored" listing. https://ebay.us/m/4gvALW

Electrical principles can be difficult. datsununiverse might be more of a mechanical person. If he cleaned up the switch and rerturned it that seems fair. Sounds like he's saying that he doesn't really know what went wrong. People often get voltage and current mixed up. I found his eBay store front but don't see a web site. Can't tell what "rebuilt" means. https://www.ebay.com/str/datsuniverse

I haven't seen much about turn signal contact pitting in my time browsing the Z car WWW. The headlight and running lights have a problem for sure, melting/breaking solder joints and burning contacts in the switch, but a turn signal switch problem I've not seen. But, the cure for the headlight and running lights problem is a relay so if your switch works and you want to avoid the problem in the future a relay would be a good idea. I haven't looked at a 73 wiring diagram closely but I'd think a relay in front of the flasher should get it done. I tried to take a look at the wiring diagram in the 73 FSM but, wow, it's hard to look at. Can't tell which side is the power supply side but a meter would solve that problem. On the other hand though, what datsun universe seems to be saying is that your turn signal lights were pulling too much current, causing the contacts to pit and overheat. Somebody handy with a meter might be able to test the possibility. If you did have a high voltage problem it would manifest in many other places also, so "high voltage" doesn't really make sense. In short, your problem is kind of unusual. Hope my thoughts help a little bit.

Check the vacuum hose to the FPR for fuel. If it's original it's very old and the diaphragm can crack and leak fuel internally. It shoots straight in to the manifold. Also, your ECU is not likely to be 79 since that would be a ZX and they are wired differently. Unless somebody swapped in a 79 EFI harness also. A 79 ECU will plug in to 75-78 but won't work. I found that all ECU's from 75 through 78 would run my 76 with no problems. It's also known that bad ECU's often cause rich running. Broken solder joints seem to be the problem. But I'd check that FPR first. Also, have you measured fuel pressure? Welcome to "getting the old 280Z running right" world.

Found one! And just realized that I am obsessed with the notch and groove, I'm in all of the notch and groove threads. Looks like Nissan put the 1 on the right for position 1. So you're on position 1. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/49373-is-this-off-too-much/ Thread from which it came. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56868-oe-camshaft-and-cam-gear-markings/

I've been looking at that Nissan drawing for years and I keep realizing that they put a lot of information in it, but it is still unclear. In the "Before" picture they show the number 1 on the right side and number 2 on the above left, on the perimeter of the sprocket. In the after picture the 2 is where the 1 used to be and 3 is on the left. But they don't clearly say if the before picture is the 2 position or the 1 position. It would make sense to have the position hole at the top. But they don't say. Anyway, based on the notch and groove your cam timing is correct and you should be fine. You're about halfway to needing an adjustment. It is odd though that your groove is below the perimeter of the sprocket base in that picture. Also interesting that there is apparently 16 degrees of play in your chain, since the groove did not move at all, but the damper did. Not sure what to make of that. So, there you go, much discussion but still wondering. Good luck! I'm going to browse around and see if I can find an original notch and groove picture with numbers. Maybe somebody has one?

p.s. 2 it looks like you think that the sprocket is already on #3. Can't tell because you wrote over the actual number! Anyway, The other first thing I might do is to just set the damper at TDC/zero, remove the sprocket and replace it at a position that looks right. Use a chain holder tool. You can make your own out of wood.

Looks like a PO adjusted the sprocket already to position 2 or 3. If you put the timing mark on zero (TDC) (like you're supposed to) the notch will be after the groove. Like "after adjustment" in the FSM. It wouldn't be from chain stretch on position 1 because that would delay the camshaft mark (before adjustment). Make sure also that the tight side of the chain is tight. The left/driver's side. Another possibility is that your damper is starting to fail and the timng mark has moved. And, that looks like 16 degrees, not 12. If it was mine I'd remove the #1 plug and try to confirm that the piston is at TDC. Then see where the marks are, and see if you are on position 1, 2, or 3. You might be able to see the tensioner also to see if it is pushed out. p.s. it's a chain. Good luck.

Might find something here - https://bringatrailer.com/search/?s=1970+240z

Weird how complex the whole fuel filter market is. Few details and what looks like poor conversion skills. 10 mm = 3/8"...not. Here's a couple from the local store, one with paper media, one with bronze. One about 4" long, the other undefined. One special order, the other available. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/spectre-performance/spectre-performance-fuel-filter/spt0/5965?q=Spectre+Performance+Fuel+Filter+-+5965&pos=0 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/trans-dapt/performance/filtration/fuel-filters--universal-/383bc52af696/trans-dapt-3-8-inch-inlet-3-8-inch-outlet-fuel-filter/tdp0/9177?pos=3

They're cheap too. Main problem is the 8 mm (5/16") nipples. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

Don't overlook that the pressure drop is affected by the area of the filter media. Not just the pore size. So, a larger diameter filter will be less noisy. It would be interesting to try one of the big 280Z EFI filters as a pre-filter. There's a reason there so big. Lots of surface area in the pleated media. Also, if you're filtering to save the pump don't over-filter. The clearance inside the vane-type roller pumps is pretty big. Certainly greater than 20 microns.

You need to add more detail. When, and exactly where? There are three "lugs". Actually two lugs and a spade. SteveJ is asking about the spade (black and yellow wire). With the key at Start. The 12 is a good sign though.

Slide hammer is not a bad idea, but good look finding that thread pitch. I have vague memories of using a rag and a pair of vise-grips, with a hammer tapping sideways on the pliers. Or maybe a big screwdrive levering on it. Anyway they do get stuck. Nothing special in there. I found a new Z store. TotalZPartsDatsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX Speedometer Pinion Gear...NOS (new old stock) speedometer pinion gear full assembly, including the sleeve, seals, and the retaining pin. It has a 17-teeth gear & measures about 3 1/16" in total length. 18, 19, & 20 teeth ge...

Are you sure? The diagram shows a left side and a right side, from the Hazard switch. It's a 78, I didn't look at any other diagrams. The Hazard switch is basically a gate between power and the flasher, and the lights. Since the flasher comes in to play the short to power has to include the flasher circuit. Basically it's just completing the circuit, like a short across contacts inside the switch. Interesting problem. For what it's worth, I erased about three different paragraphs about this problem. Writing about it does help the brain work...

$137,000. Kind of amusing that the bulk of the discussion on BaT was about AC and undercoating. Bring a TrailerVintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-SpeedBid for the chance to own a Vintage Restoration Program 1972 Datsun 240Z 4-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #199,214.

That cam doesn't look very aggressive. Not like a typical rumpety-rump muscle car V8 cam. Probably won't cause a problem. I've seen belt-driven vacuum pumps. You could probably add one after the fact if you find that you need it. Looks like you can get electric also. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/vacuum-pumps-street