Zed Head

Makes sense. I think that they advertise it as an addition or as a standalone. Seems odd that the user would need to choose though. Maybe they knew it was failure-prone, and provided a switch so customers wouldn't get stranded. Or for the people nervous about new technology. p.s. without the AI sources linked the results can't be trusted. What you found seems reasonable but...it's AI. Could be a hallucination or rationalization.

Maybe a local parts store has a loaner. If the FPR is really giving that pressure it seems like you'd be running pretty rich. Which might be why your intake vacuum readings are low. But you should be smelling gas in the exhaust, and getting dark plugs.

The fact that the pressure drops to 34 with vacuum on the FPR shows that the pump and fuel path can go lower. If I was ZCD I'd demand that you try a different gauge before refunding. You can't just go off of a company's reputation. Stuff happens.

No picture. I'd still check with a different gauge. In today's world anything can be of poor quality or counterfeit. Damaged in shipping. Who knows. Everything needs to be checked. Even a cheap parts store gauge might tell you something. If it reads 41 also, that's a sign.

Never heard of WebTV. Interesting. I think we were still watching MTV on cable back then. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MSN_TV

A 7 psi drop under vacuum is pretty good. That would be 29 psi if the FPR was calibrated correctly. Are you sure of your gauge? Hope you didn't get caught with poor aftermarket quality. I would make sure the gauge is reading correctly, then send it back to ZCD if you're really getting 41. 41 is way out of spec. ZCD needs to know if they're selling crap parts. Good luck. p.s. the guy that started ZCD is a member here. Maybe somebody can @ him if they know his screen name. @zcardepot.com found it!

What is the starting pressure, non-running?

So close Mister Bot, so close. Keep at it! 🦾🤖

Looks like they wanted to restrict current through the coil during operation but weren't too worried about the sensor and module under the cap. Seems odd, but it was early days for electronic ignition. The coil primary resistance isn't that low. One of the ironies of restricting current through a "high performance" coil is that it reduces performance. You can spend the time to get it like they wanted it to be but the reality is it's old electronics. That's probably why it's overheating. Starting to fail. Either the coil or the module. Most likely the module. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/what-was-the-first-year-of-the-sbc-bbc-mallory-unilite.839756/ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29440 Summit Racing Part Number: MAA-29440 UPC: 085132294404 Coil Style: Remote mount Primary Resistance: 0.600 ohms

I'm still in the "reject all AI" phase. Can't do it!

Thanks for the reply. It kind of boils down to the difference between having a private discussion versus having a public conversation. I'm here for the public conversation. I think that we're all here to talk about interesting things. No reason for secrecy, we're not competing. No obvious reason for S30.world to want to keep things private. They put a lot of effort in to the very public web page. I was just pointing out some deficiencies, questions that people might have. You raised a few yourself.

As site suggests, carbs or EFI? 1975 and after is EFI. If you've been in to muscle cars you might be tempted to add horsepower. The 280Z's have stronger bodies. 1979 and later is 280ZX. Basically a completely different car from the Z, except for the engine and drivetrain. The 1974 260Z and the 1975 280Z are basically transition cars. Electronic ignition, EFI, differential, bumpers, body, all were in flux. Like site says, some deals have crossed the BaT platform recently. Worthwhile to keep an eye on their auctions.

Your "competition" would be the S30.World 6 speed, I'd say. Theirs has an extra gear and newness, but yours has originality and ease of install. $4270 + $250 shipping = $4970 https://shop.s30.world/product/nismo-32010-rrs50-reinforced-6-speed-transmission-to-l-series-conversion-kit Or, "$924 in 1975 is worth $5,786.85 today" https://www.in2013dollars.com/us/inflation/1975?amount=924

Sometimes we never find out what caused a problem. I would just put it all back together, making sure that everything fits correctly, and run it. You've seen signs of unusual wear but there's no confirmed connection to any running problems.

It's been noticed in the past that many of the aftermarket FPR's seem(ed) to be set at 38 psi. Who knows why. A $20 38 psi FPR would be better than a leaking FPR, probably. Also, any used original FPR probably has a stiff crack-prone diaphragm inside. And, if you get tempted to buy an adjustable aluminum FPR, be aware that they all seem to leakdown as soon as the pump shuts off. It's a trilemma.

I'd bet that they're all made in Asia now. One of these under $30 280ZX units might be worth a gamble. Probably all come from the same place. Not sure of the mounting, might have to cobble something up, but the pressure specs are the same. https://www.ebay.com/itm/395767712629?_skw=280z+fuel+pressure+regulator

There are marks on the base plate, or you could mark it yourself. I don't really see any marks on your new parts. I'd just run it and see what happens. After making sure that center/coil wire was firmly seated. Did you get a new coil wire? If the contact at the end of the wire had a bad connection it might cause heat even if it was fully seated.

I would remove the distributor, put the cap back on, and spin it by hand while trying to make the rotor hit the electrodes. Maybe you'll notice something.

The rotor metal doesn't look bad. The cap looks like it had been misplaced in the past based on the marks at the base. The burned up center wire terminal is not related, it's an electrical issue. Probably a bad center wire or it was not fully seated, or there was contamination that allowed conduction past the rubber seal. Since you have new parts I'd just run them for a while and examine them after some time.

It's hard to tell much from your pictures. I'm not even sure that a little rubbing would cause running problems. Seems like if it was bad that you'd hear a buzzing noise from the distributor as the rotor ticks past each electrode. "Red herring" might be happening here.

I would check that the rotor is actually seated completely. Besides having a loose one I also have a vague memory of a tight one or two. Maybe you're just not pushing it down all the way. If the shaft is moving then you'd also have problems with the air gap. Worth the time to check that while you're in there.

I've wondered about that. The FSM's don't show 3.36 until 1973, in the PD chapters. The image I posted is from the 1972 FSM. But. The General Information chapter shows a 3.364. Errors in the FSM. It's backward. I think that the 3.7 ratio is hard to find. Probably have to go 3.9. Good luck.

If you ask a company that sells "upgrade" parts if you need an upgrade they'll probably say yes. Many people that know say that a better flowing exhaust system (not headers, just the pipes from the manifolds to the back) gives noticeable results. The Pertronix won't change anything, it's just a points replacement. More less maintenance than performance. You probably have a 3.9 now, so 3.7 would be going the wrong way. I would get all of the original parts working correctly before deciding anything. You might be surprised.

Is it a 4 speed? Have you given it a tuneup and checked that the distributor is working correctly? The advance mechanisms inside, both vacuum and centrifugal, are important during the transition from idle to acceleration.