Zed Head

Sounds like your L wire is not providing power to the windings. Check for voltage at the L wire with the key on. A good alternator with no L power will not charge. Actually with an external alternator, it's the F terminal. No F power, No F'ing charging. Check inside the plug with the key on. sometimes the connection canget loose too, so if you find power make usre it's a solid connection to the F terminal. Check your grounds also. The alternator case should have a ground through the monuts but it also has a dedicated ground wire. No ground no charge.

He's getting inexpensive publicity for his art stuff. The Pitchfork headline was funny, I thought. Nirvana sued by baby... The guy should have a baby chasing a dollar tattooed on his chest. And how about a new headline - "Baby still chasing dollar".

Use your door buzzer circuit and switch as a "headlight on" buzzer.

The only draw on the battery would be the clock. And that is so small that it won't drain a battery for months. Still not really clear what problem you're trying to solve. You showed that the alternator is discharging while the engine is running, which means the alternator is not working. That will drain a battery pretty fast, with spark and fuel pump and various relays drawing power. A super simple check for a key-off draw is to watch and listen for a spark when you connect the last battery cable. I had a single relay active after a wiring change (alternator modification) and it created a significant spark, it was a clue that I had a problem (along with the battery dying overnight). I think it was drawing 0.3 amps. Once I fixed the draw even the clock didn't produce a significant spark even though it worked just fine.

https://pitchfork.com/news/nirvana-sued-by-baby-from-nevermind-album-artwork-for-child-pornography/

If it's a Standard, it's "in spec". https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,electrical,voltage+regulator,4884 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45627&cc=1209170&pt=4884&jsn=844 https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/154/GF10221B.pdf MECHANIC'S SERVICE TIPS (MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS) TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION FEATURES All VRs are designed to compensate for changes in temperature, matching the output voltage to the needs of the battery. They produce higher voltage in cold weather and lower voltage in warm weather, especially the electromechanical type. This in turn affects the voltage calibration, therefore you should always operate a voltage regulator for 20 minutes to stabilize the internal heating effects before checking the voltage setting. Voltage specifications of regulators after 20 minutes warm up (at 70 °F) are 13.5 - 15.0 volts for alternator output currents between 3 - 21 amp.

You might just clean up your voltage regulator and alternator connections to start off. The regulator senses the alternator output and regulates accordingly. If it's sensing incorrectly, maybe through a corroded connection, it might be allowing too much voltage. Find that page I copied from and you'll see that the VR is adjustable. You could tune it down if the voltage stays high. EE-23 shows the adjustment process. Assuming that you still have the external regulator. If you have already converted to an internal reg alternator, then move the end of the sense wire closer to the alternator output and/or clean those connections too.

Just remembered that my favorite square head bolt tool is a large Crescent (adjustable) wrench. The 12 inch model was surprisingly strong. https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-AT212VS-Finish-Adjustable-Wrench/

Where are you getting this reading from? A 73 alternator with external regulator can reach 15 volts. It would be normal for certain temperatures.

An old thread with pictures so you can see what you might dealing with.

There are descriptions around the internet of people using long skinny tools and amazing eyesight being able to push the tensioner piston back in to its bore, and getting things back together. I think that there are also stories of people spending a lot of time trying this before giving up and taking the front cover off. Can't hurt to poke around down there and see what your abilities are.

The thickness and color of the wire makes me think it's alternator/fusible link related.

The old fashioned original impact tools work well. Three pound sledge and a hefty wrench. Pipe wrench or a solid open end wrench. More slow motion high mass inertia than high speed low mass.

You will get a low number if one of those tube adapters is used in the spark plug hole. It increases the effective combustion chamber size. Five 110's and a 100 looks pretty even overall. Four is the dirty one though and he shows three as the low pressure. So, bad oil ring seems to fit best. Bummer. I'd run a hot plug in #4 to keep it clean. I think it's been suggested before.

Heat makes a big difference. Expands the aluminum and softens the sealer. Even one of those blow dryer heat guns, doesn't have to be a flame.

Just noticed the back plate. 2002.

The car is down there in harmony01's neighborhood, and, "Location is approximate". I missed the "See more" on the description. Lost title. Needs driveway space. Not clear if he ever had the title in his name. Still has Washington plates. PLEASE READ (If posted in the wrong area please delete) I AM TAKING SERIOUS OFFERS ON THE CAR Hello, I am selling this 1971 datsun 240z It has a manual transmission that shifts great Not really in a rush to get rid of it but the extra driveway space would be nice. The car ran perfectly but the carb was acting up so it was removed and it hasn’t been put back on since. Floor pans and battery tray need to be replaced, lost the title (but it is clean) a while ago, carburetor not included, tiny spots of rust here and there but overall good condition. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask, thanks

Not much description. Probably wrong. I think I see a 91. That's 40k in 20 years.

Don't forget the scissor jack on the rocker sill point for lifting. Might as well try it to see if you'll be able to change a flat tire because that's all you'll have and that's how it's done. You'll still want jack stands before you crawl under.

People are placing a lot of value on the 400Z and the marketing hype. I would have taken the money. Doubtful that the work done was worth the difference. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-183/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-155/ 57,500 - 24,240 = 33,260

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/shocks-struts/shock-strut/75de62e0ee1b/v/a/6638/automotive-car-1979-nissan-280zx?q=shock%2Fstrut

It could be. Or it could be a bad bushing. Or a bad shock bushing. Lift, grab, wiggle, listen, look. The cars are old and the rubber degrades. You'll probably find something.

Found some good communications to lower the hesitancy for the younger crowd. https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/drake-losing-hair-covid-19-160106536.html

It would be interesting to see when the part number changed for the switch if it did. 1976 is definitely a different diagram, I think.