Zed Head

Arm rest door, or arm rest console? Probably a broken diff mount and strap.

I think that you could use this 5 pin relay to open when powered through the pressure switch but close when oil pressure is present (removing the ground path), supplying fuel pump power. There would be a delay until oil pressure built up. Might have to wire in a branch from the starter solenoid so that the pump gets power during Start. You're probably done already but I felt like exercising (hurting) my brain a little bit more. There is some neat stuff on that web site. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209150.asp

One last thing, in case you didn't know. The oil pressure switch is actually a combination switch and sensor. One pin supplies the pressure resistance for the gauge, the other pin supplies the ground signal to the fuel pump control relay. If you're thinking that the "switch" is between the two pins, it's not.

And, the switch is normally closed. It opens when pressurized.

I think I see what the diagram is trying to do. But "ignition switch" doesn't tell if it's Run or Start. I screwed up and misread the diagram. Edit mode... The problem is probably in the pressure switch. The Nissan pressure switch passes current to ground. Your diagram shows it as passing current to a pin on the switch. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002155.asp

The oil pressure switch is only used on the 78 280Z and 280ZX's to control the fuel pump relay. Look at the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter is you want to see how the pressure switch is used. Your diagram is odd. Looks like somebody created their own safety system. The only wire that should be connected to the starter solenoid is the wire from the ignition switch.

This will answer the question about if it's an electrical problem. There's just one small wire to the solenoid and it only does one single thing. Starters do bind up sometimes. The drive gear gets stuck in the ring gear.

Why did you replace the starter? Trying to figure out if the new parts caused the problem. It might be mechanical. Connect a voltmeter or test light to the starter solenoid and see if it has power after you let the key go back to Run. If it only lights up on Start then it's not an electrical problem. If the light or meter show power while the engine is running then it's an electrical problem.

So, does the engine never die because it automatically restarts? Describe more about the L28. Is it carb'ed or EFI? Are you using mechanical fuel pump or electric? Can't really diagnose a non-stock setup without knowing what you're using. The Start circuit should only be active when the key is at Start. Why did you replace the ignition switch? For this problem or some other reason?

Something different. You need to listen to the whole album, several times.

That site only evaluates online written content, apparently. So the "shock jock" personalities wouldn't be included. Rush Limbaugh, for instance. And the videos and interviews that the networks show wouldn't be included either. https://www.allsides.com/media-bias/media-bias-ratings We provide separate bias ratings for news and editorial/opinion content for a number of outlets. Unless otherwise noted, all bias ratings are based on online, written content, not broadcast, TV, or radio content. Our ratings are fluid and subject to change over time as new information is gathered and biases change. To see the ratings in action, visit our balanced newsfeed.

Injector power comes from the EFI relay and the fusible links. 1978 has two green links connected directly to the battery positive terminal. Use a meter to test for voltage before using a noid light to test for current.

Which part? He covered several things.

L = Blue. HA is the Heating and Air Conditioning chapter. Here's the top half of page 71.

It might be. But from where you're at now it will be easy to find out. You have your wiring to the coil correct. Get that distributor back in and the spark plug wires right. No need to jump the gun. Charge the battery.

Washington state's risk level just went up, according to COVIDActNow. It's the game, say it's over too soon and people start taking more risk. Hope we get it knocked way down over the summer. South America is suffering, I think, because it's winter down there, among other issues. https://covidactnow.org/?s=1919837

I think I asked this the first time it was posted. Where did this graphic come from? Anybody notice that, like, 2/3 of the news outlets are left of middle? Suggests that the person who put the graphic together sees the middle as to the right. Just an observation. I don't even see The Epoch Times on it. Off the chart.

That is actually good then. All 5 spots should show the same voltage and it should be battery voltage. Your wiring looks correct at the ballast and coil, as far as power supply. Get the distributor back in and wired right and you might get some spark. In your recent post you said that you didn't get spark but you didn't say how you tested it. Spark only happens when the current flow through the coil is interrupted.

You might have a short to ground on the blue wire from the coil negative post. Or the ignition module is shorted internally. Unplug the ignition module and take your measurements again. That will remove the ignition module from the picture. The voltage measured should be battery voltage. Make sure the battery is 12.6 or greater. If you have a short to ground you won't get any spark. It's also bad for your ignition parts.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-59/

The wiring diagram (and the construction of the ballast resistor itself) says that you should see voltage on all three terminals if any of them show voltage. Because they are all connected. If you remove the ballast resistor and flip it over, like you were going to do last night, you will find that the dead terminal is disconnected from the other two, either because the wire is broken or burnt, or because the screw came loose. There is a short path for starting (the middle terminal) and a long path for running (the end terminal).

It will allow more current, but your coil has slightly higher resistance than the stock one so it will even out. It should be fine for testing.

The 2nd post in the thread below has some good information. Take that measurement and see if you get close to 92 mm. Make sure the throwout sleeve is right for the pressure plate.

Was. But your distributor misalignment and spark plug wire mess wouldn't be related to a bad ballast resistor. You should make a list of each problem and how to fix it. You have several things that you need to do just get the engine started. There will be more problems to solve to get it running right. There's not going to be one thing that makes everything work right. And don't start any new threads.