Zed Head

Hence, your quandary. The "ping". Wonder if the slinger will fit inside the seal opening. You could still install one. Edit - never mind, your seal is out. Easy to do.

You can still get them. Doesn't seem to be much to them. Wonder which way the oil is meant to be thrown. Seems like the translation from Japanese should have been deflector, not thrower or slinger. I'll bet it is just a shield to keep the distributor gear from piling oil up in to the front of the cavity. Edit - actually the distributor drive gear is probably the "thrower". It sits right there throwing oil toward the seal as it spins. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313204496693?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=313204496693&targetid=1068323850870&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033513&poi=&campaignid=10459841973&mkgroupid=104612009900&rlsatarget=pla-1068323850870&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6520324&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsk-dWNN7wM3i3pAAR4Cr-9JOEmxBrISOUjfedPQLrRQVC0BdKcf-fwaAlDGEALw_wcB

It's called an "oil thrower".

Reality bites for the 2+2 crowd. Only got to $9,500. Not enough. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-22-8/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-03-19

Put some denticles on it. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323011115_Shark_skin-inspired_designs_that_improve_aerodynamic_performance

I wonder if the oil slinger is the "metal plate" that somebody was seeing in a recent thread about the woodruff key. He was just trying to replace the seal and ended up with quite a mess. His key was jammed in the keyway at an angle. I've read that some engines didn't come with the slinger and many people just leave it out after working on the engine. Here's the thread -

Somebody on a different forum measured under hood temperatures for Z's and found that when the car was moving the air under the hood equilibrated to outside air temperature. It got replaced faster than it could be heated. Non-moving might be a different story, can't remember what he found there. His conclusion was that relocating inlets was not worth the effort.

Use the term "heat soak". It's been discussed in depth in the past. Aluminum fuel rails seem to help, they dissipate the heat, apparently. It's a very common problem.

It's not going anywhere. Leave it for the next guy. It might end up on your drain plug magnet. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2163 https://zcardepot.com/products/crankshaft-woodruff-key-oem-240z-260z-280z?gclid=CjwKCAjw9MuCBhBUEiwAbDZ-7isNOClrwtUI2J2DW2XhCmh3NKXlmPE7N6ZD_4dJXtYIMHgVquObfRoC3ycQAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=google shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&variant=19276322832497

If the NOIDs work the injectors should work. I don't know your budget but I've found that salvage yard Bosch and Nissan injectors can still be just fine if the rail holds pressure. Any Z or ZX, just cut the fuel line and see if fresh fuel squirts out. If it does get the FPR too. There's still a bunch ahead of you but looks like you're almost there.

Injectors can't really be fixed so if those others are open circuit, they're toast. It's weird that they are open though, I think that they usually short circuit internally, or just get jammed mechanically @Terrapin Z might have some used injectors to get you started. If you're not sure where your project is going to end up. He has a hoard of parts. You could also buy just one injector and see if you can get one to work right. Still odd also that your NOID lights didn't work. Are you sure they had a good connection? You used a jumper instead of a NOID light.

82 Turbo survivor. Looks like fun, decent. Ready for guilt-free abuse. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-turbo-12/

I don't know about the NOID light test, that should be testing the harness and ECU, but the injector solenoid windings are exposed to the fuel so if moisture got in they could corrode and open. If you look at the schematic you can see that each injector is supplied with power through the dropping resistors. Parallel circuits, so each should work independently. You might check the circuit, continuity, from each injector plug to the ECU connector. 14, 15, 30, 31, 32, 33. You might use the NOID lights in place of injectors to complete the circuit, for testing. You're certainly making progress, but it seems like you have multiple issues. Well done. You'll find something and things will start working. The EFI systems are all about check, check, check, check......

Mine. Not kidding, Craftsman fits the Phillips head perfectly. Somehow other brands just don't get the fit and grab right.

I was thinking of a different test, I said resistance, but that one still shows you something. I was thinking of testing resistance through the EFI relay connection, or the dropping resistors, to the ECU connector. You can see the circuit on the diagram, of how things are supposed to happen. You'd have to get to the dropping resistors or the EFI relay. I wonder if you have an EFI relay problem. You might be measuring voltage of a very high resistance circuit. The EFI relay is above the hood release lever in the cabin. Two screws and it drops out. The FSM has a procedure for testing the relay. It's a fairly common failure point, my car came with an extra one becuase the one in it was failing. You can take them apart and look inside if they don't work right. Might have dirty contacts or a failing solenoid coil. The EFI relay is combined with the fuel pump relay. Silver box about 1 x 1 2 inches. The pin numbers are stamped in to the board, you can barely see them but they are there. It's the "RELAY' just under the battery in the schematic.

Can't remember all of the guys that would know but I think these guys might. @EuroDat @zKars @Dave WM @mayolives There are others. It still looks pretty nasty. Interested to see how it works out.

Last weird thing - there was a time when if the resistor fell out of the tachometer circuit on my car the ECU would not open the injectors. I never really understood why since it's a branched circuit. But it was real. The ECU seems sensitive to the quality of the pulse from the coil. But measuring resistance and applying power through the circuit will at least confirm that the injectors should work.

Have you measured resistance through the injector circuits from the ECU connector? Page 63 and on in the book. You can test an individual injectors pretty easily just by putting a quick 12 volts across the pins. I used to use an old injector plug to make the wires easier to get to. You can also put the power through the pins at the ECU connector. I smash a piece of solid copper wire down to a flat shape than I can stick in the connector then use alligator clips to apply power. You should hear a distinct click each time. Maybe your injectors are stuck. How long has the car been sitting? The resistance test will confirm the solenoid electrical path. If that's good and they don't open with a quick 12 volt tap on the terminals, you might ry tapping them with a screwdriver or wrench. I have unstuck injectors that way before. Old dried up fuel will gum up the insides.

The propeller shaft u-joints are "staked" in. They don't have the clips like the early Z shafts did. Nissan made the change in 74 or 75. There are shops that know how to get them out and convert them to clipped u-joints. But you have to find the shop. Or you can source a 240Z shaft.

@Mike we need more emoticons, and the ability to choose several at once.

Where is it going? Never realized how nice it looked, we all keep our cars secret. I sold mine last year but it didn't look anywhere near like yours. My brain is still full of Z stuff though so I have to hang around.

Are you testing with all of the injectors unplugged? That would make sense then. The ECU only grounds the voltage to activate the solenoid. One pin is power, one pin is ground. People often see voltage on both sides because the injectors are wired in parallel. CO elucidated this in past posts. So, on the ECU side, it's only a ground circuit when the ECU says it is. Anyway, if all injectors are unplugged then seeing voltage on only one pin makes sense. If you have continuity to Pin 1 now then you should get injector clicking every three sparks. Any chance you can borrow an ECU? Any ECU from 75 through 78 should work.

I'll bet you still think "old idot" when you read about some 40 year old crashing his vehicle. I do. But I shouldn't.

I'd check the valve cover closely. There's no oil passage on that side and the engine tilts the other way. Actually the illustration is poor but I think that only oil passage is on the filter side, for the cam towers or spray bar, and sometimes one up front. But none back there on that side.

I do remember having to put the two front bolts in in a certain order and angle of rod. Leave everything loose and wiggle things around until you get both front ones inserted. So, not a drop-in but much easier than wheels hanging.