Zed Head

Forgot to ask - where is the damper pulley mark? Can you post a picture of that? Then you'll have TDC, cam lobe positions, and ignition timing marks.

I think that you just have an aftermarket timing chain sprocket (three holes instead of four) with no notch so no need for the holes at the top, and either a bad damper pully, or the damper pulley has been installed with no key in the keyway. Might be that your guy pushed the key out of the slot when he installed the damper. I'd pull that damper and check the key and keyway. Your sprocket only has three holes, the factory sprocket has four. Edit - I guess it might possible also to install the sprocket without the locating pin. I see the 1, 2, and 3 on the sprocket so something is weird there. So, I'd pull the sprocket also. Use the tool so you don't drop the chain. Overall, both your sprocket and your damper don't seem to match piston location. Might be that your builder had the piston on the exhaust stroke when he installed the parts. So, maybe you're right but he was wrong. This is my new theory - your builder installed the sprocket on the exhaust stroke and maybe just eyeballed the damper pulley without the key in the keyway because it didn't line up. Either way, since you know you're at TDC on the piston, you need to get the damper and sprocket to match. Pull them off on and reinstall and hope no valves were damaged. Short answer - something is not right so it's best to take it apart and start over.

One of the silver Z's is up today. 1978. And a 69 Roadster. >>> $25,750 for the 78, $30,500 for the Roadster. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-87/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-2000-roadster-39/

Is it an automatic or manual? You can check if the engine is locked up by putting it in gear and moving the car. I'd pull the plugs first just to see how they look. Squirt some oil in the plug holes. Like SteveJ said you have a lot to do before trying to start it or drive it. Are you in Vancouver B.C. or Vancouver, WA? Looks like the car sat by saltwater, maybe even under water.

I was kidding. Looks like somebody already converted back to carbs. p.s. that engine bay is hideous.

After moving the diff back you're in the place that Diseazd described where the same propeller shaft will work all the way through 1978. The dimensions stayed the same once they got the diff directly between the wheels. But, the short propeller shaft that was used with the forward mounted diff is the one that people use with the 240SX (71C) transmission. So, if you still have it, it's about a perfect fit.

I started at CO's post and worked my way backward and I really thought you were going to describe how to make a bong out of a giant socket.

How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title?

How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title? How did you get two threads posted with the same title?

Do you know what the material is or have a link to Hung Vu's page or web site? I know a bit about materials. Hope he chose one with no plasticizers, they tend to end up on the wind shield.

Sounds like it is essentially identical to what you have in your 77 now, performance expectations wise. If it's been assembled well it seems like money wasted to take it apart again. You might check the wipe pattern and examine the quality of the rocker arm lash pads. See if they've been reground or the builder just put old ones back on. Cam lobe wiping seems to be the most common damage to newly rebuilt engines. Mark just replied but I'm going in anyway!! Submit Reply!

The lobes should look just like this. I stole this picture from a Google search that linked to a CZCC thread but the picture wasn't in it when I opened it. In case someone recognizes it. It's starting to sound like you're on the exhaust stroke.

Dolfin, you're contradicting what you wrote earlier. You said the timing mark was in the wrong place. How about a picture of your damper pulley and the timing plate? Also not clear what you mean by "lobes are flat". They should be sticking up like rabbit ears if you're on the compression stroke.

For some reason when I save an image it saves in low resolution format. A new puzzle to work on, spending time figuring out time-saving technology. Seems to be a Chrome issue. I downloaded Firefox and it maintains the resolution. It's like these tech companies don't understand how people use their computers.

How did you get such a clear image? I'm on a computer and tried saving the image and snipping from the screen. They all come up fuzzy. Figured it out. Somehow a phone image contains more resolution than a computer image. I opened it on my phone and the image gets clearer when you blow it up. Not sure how that works, but it's pretty annoying.

I have used most of the variations from 1975 to 1978 on my 1976 car with no noticeable difference and no damage.

Shaq just popped up, talking about Epson printer's. "Fill and chill" then stupid dance moves. Damn it Shaq!

There's only one keyway. It's relation to piston #1 will not change. Maybe. That's what I meant when I said the damper pully might have slipped. They tend to slip before they come apart completely. You can pry on it and see if it moves. Here's what they look like in two pieces.

Here's an old thread about the notch and groove. Some familiar names in it. Not sure that the windows would need to be at top if there's no notch.

The hose clamp says not factory stock.

You can buy a new key, they're around, and cheap. Wrap some tape around the snout so you don't gouge anything and rip that key out of there. Then get some bright light and magnifying tools to see what you're working with. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-00926-51600-Genuine-Crank-Woodruff/dp/B013EWNDRC http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/piston-crankshaft/10 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft/10

The damper rubber can fail and the outer pulley will slip. If you were 100% positive that you were at TDC, you would mark a new pulley to know where zero is. All of the timing marks, both cam and ignition, are based on top dead center of #1 on the compression stroke. So, either the damper has failed or you're on the exhaust stroke on #1 or the builder installed the pulley in the wrong spot. Maybe he pushed the key out of its keyway. We were just talking about that possibility in Wally's thread. Anyway, everything starts with TDC on #1, valves closed.

12 might be a 280Z dropping resistor. Mounts behind the wiper washer bottle. 5 looks like part of the air flow control for AC/heat. 7 does look a dashpot for an EFI TB. 3 is definitely an AFM. It has numbers on it that are important. This number is important also for 11 although they all seem to work about the same.

If you're sure that the #1 piston (the front piston) is at TDC, and that the camshaft is at "valves closed" on #1 then there are two possibilities for the missing or incorrect timing marks. Some of the aftermarket timing sprockets don't have the notch on the sprocket. They just rely on using the 42 links for installation and there's no way to monitor chain wear over time. So you might have to trust the builder on that. On the damper ignition timing marks you might have the wrong combination timing mark plate/pointer and damper. Some were on the left and some were on the right. jonbill just replied but I'm going to post this anyway.

Red 72 survivor. White interior. Looks interesting, but...automatic. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-162/