Everything posted by Zed Head
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
82 Turbo survivor. Looks like fun, decent. Ready for guilt-free abuse. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-turbo-12/
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
I don't know about the NOID light test, that should be testing the harness and ECU, but the injector solenoid windings are exposed to the fuel so if moisture got in they could corrode and open. If you look at the schematic you can see that each injector is supplied with power through the dropping resistors. Parallel circuits, so each should work independently. You might check the circuit, continuity, from each injector plug to the ECU connector. 14, 15, 30, 31, 32, 33. You might use the NOID lights in place of injectors to complete the circuit, for testing. You're certainly making progress, but it seems like you have multiple issues. Well done. You'll find something and things will start working. The EFI systems are all about check, check, check, check......
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Distributor wrench
Mine. Not kidding, Craftsman fits the Phillips head perfectly. Somehow other brands just don't get the fit and grab right.
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
I was thinking of a different test, I said resistance, but that one still shows you something. I was thinking of testing resistance through the EFI relay connection, or the dropping resistors, to the ECU connector. You can see the circuit on the diagram, of how things are supposed to happen. You'd have to get to the dropping resistors or the EFI relay. I wonder if you have an EFI relay problem. You might be measuring voltage of a very high resistance circuit. The EFI relay is above the hood release lever in the cabin. Two screws and it drops out. The FSM has a procedure for testing the relay. It's a fairly common failure point, my car came with an extra one becuase the one in it was failing. You can take them apart and look inside if they don't work right. Might have dirty contacts or a failing solenoid coil. The EFI relay is combined with the fuel pump relay. Silver box about 1 x 1 2 inches. The pin numbers are stamped in to the board, you can barely see them but they are there. It's the "RELAY' just under the battery in the schematic.
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wide ratio FS5W71B slipping out of 3rd & 4th
Can't remember all of the guys that would know but I think these guys might. @EuroDat @zKars @Dave WM @mayolives There are others. It still looks pretty nasty. Interested to see how it works out.
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
Last weird thing - there was a time when if the resistor fell out of the tachometer circuit on my car the ECU would not open the injectors. I never really understood why since it's a branched circuit. But it was real. The ECU seems sensitive to the quality of the pulse from the coil. But measuring resistance and applying power through the circuit will at least confirm that the injectors should work.
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
Have you measured resistance through the injector circuits from the ECU connector? Page 63 and on in the book. You can test an individual injectors pretty easily just by putting a quick 12 volts across the pins. I used to use an old injector plug to make the wires easier to get to. You can also put the power through the pins at the ECU connector. I smash a piece of solid copper wire down to a flat shape than I can stick in the connector then use alligator clips to apply power. You should hear a distinct click each time. Maybe your injectors are stuck. How long has the car been sitting? The resistance test will confirm the solenoid electrical path. If that's good and they don't open with a quick 12 volt tap on the terminals, you might ry tapping them with a screwdriver or wrench. I have unstuck injectors that way before. Old dried up fuel will gum up the insides.
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78 2+2 driveshaft u joints
The propeller shaft u-joints are "staked" in. They don't have the clips like the early Z shafts did. Nissan made the change in 74 or 75. There are shops that know how to get them out and convert them to clipped u-joints. But you have to find the shop. Or you can source a 240Z shaft.
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# 6 cylinder header bolt oil leak
@Mike we need more emoticons, and the ability to choose several at once.
- Bitter sweet Day
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
Are you testing with all of the injectors unplugged? That would make sense then. The ECU only grounds the voltage to activate the solenoid. One pin is power, one pin is ground. People often see voltage on both sides because the injectors are wired in parallel. CO elucidated this in past posts. So, on the ECU side, it's only a ground circuit when the ECU says it is. Anyway, if all injectors are unplugged then seeing voltage on only one pin makes sense. If you have continuity to Pin 1 now then you should get injector clicking every three sparks. Any chance you can borrow an ECU? Any ECU from 75 through 78 should work.
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# 6 cylinder header bolt oil leak
I'll bet you still think "old idot" when you read about some 40 year old crashing his vehicle. I do. But I shouldn't.
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# 6 cylinder header bolt oil leak
I'd check the valve cover closely. There's no oil passage on that side and the engine tilts the other way. Actually the illustration is poor but I think that only oil passage is on the filter side, for the cam towers or spray bar, and sometimes one up front. But none back there on that side.
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240Z Front Suspension Clunk
I do remember having to put the two front bolts in in a certain order and angle of rod. Leave everything loose and wiggle things around until you get both front ones inserted. So, not a drop-in but much easier than wheels hanging.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
The tachometer is connected to the the coil on the same circuit as Pin 1. The circuit branches on the way from the coil to the ignition module, the tachometer and the ECU. I think the split points are by the ignition module. Find the blue wire at the ignition module and track it back and you might find the branch points. Nissan used crude crimp junctions to make the branches. Nasty looking but normal. Maybe the Pin 1 circuit got pulled loose or the wire got cut.
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
The Fuel Injection Manual was written for your car. It shows how to do the electrical testing directly at the ECU connection. You can test each injector circuit, confirm continuity and resistance and power supply. ECU's do fail. Nissan's final instruction after testing everything is "replace ECU".
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1975 280z Electrical Issue
Have yo verified that you have power at the injector plugs? The EFI system harness gets its power through its own wire which also has a fusible link in it. Check for voltage at the plugs with the key on.
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240Z Front Suspension Clunk
I had the same issue the first time. The second time I learned that with the suspension loaded they go right in. Wheel's hanging = almost impossible, wheels up = easy. You can reach the nut from the side of the car, underneath, even a lowered one, or from the engine bay, with the car on the ground.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
Those projects are never getting done now...
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
I was wrong, it sold. SOLD FOR $70,500 ON 3/15/21 Probably somebody who saw it in person at the SEMA show. Still doesn't seem practical, some people were asking if it could be a DD. One bad speed bump and the exhaust is crushed. Who knows. The car was shown at the 2017 SEMA Show in Las Vegas, Nevada
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
The street racer is up today. RB26DETT with lots of extras. Already at $39,500, now 40... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-168/
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240Z Front Suspension Clunk
Compression rod, but T/C rod is the common name. It sees tension or compression when the wheel is pushed back or pulled forward (edit - actually vice-versa). The video does fit that part as a possibility since it happens when the wheel hits the curb. They're known to break also. The nut in the back could be loose. p.s. you can see it and reach down and grab it, from the engine bay. It's right there.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
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Can Anyone Identify This Part?
It looks like it's just a run-of-the-mill relay. Three wires. Any common relay could be wired in. You can take the factory relays apart also. You might find that it can be cleaned up and function restored.