Zed Head

So you're thinking about bidding on a car in an internet auction. Does this help? Makes me cringe. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-166/

Bucking during acceleration sounds like the typical lean AFM problem. But the black plugs suggest a rich problem. The video sounds like an ignition miss. Here's another simple check - the FPR vacuum hose. If the FPR diaphragm blew that would be a sudden problem. Check it for fuel, it should be dry. 1977 has the old weak ignition system with the ballast resistor. You should check it carefully. They fail on a consistent basis. Old. Forgot to say - check your fuel pressure if you can. Might be something simple like a failing fuel pump or a clogged filter.

And check for the simple stuff like rags or mouse nests in the air intake system.

You should put your videos on youtube. I wonder if the guys at the shop took it out for a spin. Did you record mileage before it went in? Might just be something disconnected. Did they work in the engine bay?

83 ZX Turbo, modified. With a psssh pssssh video. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-datsun-280zx-turbo-12/

Racecar. I feel "reserve not met" for some reason. Idle video. Shiny car juxtaposed with rusty halfshaft. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-69/

Not sure what you're looking at. This is for a 1973 240Z right? I had to go look at some of your other posts, you never said in this one. The Autozone part number you gave is there on Rockauto. That's why this seems extra weird. But it does show the smaller shape, which is what the AZ picture shows. Funny to learn though that Duralast = Cardone, for these reman parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z,2.4l+l6,1209170,brake+&+wheel+hub,power+brake+booster,1884

Here's what Autozone shows for a 73 240Z. And it is weird that the rod is set deep in the booster. AZ might be using the wrong database. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-power-booster/duralast-remanufactured-brake-power-booster-53-5104/44461_0_0

What brand is it? Give more details. Cardone is the big reman company. Here is Rockauto's picture of a Cardone booster.

Limish colored 73 4 speed. Don't they know that limes are green? Arizona survivor. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-139/

Maybe they took the spark plugs out.

The 71 towel bar sold for $16,000. It had some rust, it's probably been to the beach a few times. South Carolina. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-166/

New 72 on Beverly Hills Car Club site. Not horrible, still pricey. $14,750. https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1972-datsun-240z-c-12249.htm

That's only 0.1", not a lot. I think that the thin flanges are typically 3/8" (.375"). MSA should be able to tell you the thickness of theirs. It's a big selling point. They work best if you call them. Old school guys.

Beverly Hills? Hmmm. #64? That would be a find. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/155244-awesome-240z-240-z-super-rare-low-vin-series-1-original-collector-trade-.html EXPORT, NO PROBLEM... ATTENTION COLLECTORS!! VIN # 0064!!! The 51st Z imported to the U.S. I am a Z collector and will be offering some of my more rare and sought after cars for sale in the coming weeks... This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition Original -

Check this one out. Same ad copy, different color car, even has a hood scoop thing. http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/datsun/224571-awesome-240z-240-z-super-rare-low-vin-series-1-hot-rod-collector-trade-.html This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition. Classic Series 1 Z car has been amazingly well preserved and nicely restored. This is a very collectible early Z. Your ad https://www.classifiedads.com/cars/w12w6kfx73zb7 This is a Super Rare, Original Ultra-Low Vin Series 1 240Z in extremely nice, low mile condition. Classic Series 1 Z car has been amazingly well preserved and nicely restored. This is a very collectible early Z

The ad copy looked familiar to me also. I searched the first sentence and found several similar ads, even using the same odd capitalization. https://www.google.com/search?q=This+is+a+Super+Rare%2C+Original+Ultra-Low+Vin+Series+1+240Z+in+extremely+nice&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=This+is+a+Super+Rare%2C+Original+Ultra-Low+Vin+Series+1+240Z+in+extremely+nice&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

The ad web site and the transaction company both seem sketchy to me. Why not use eBay and Paypal? Bigger audience, proven transaction company. Why use a company in Buffalo, and sell the car in Sacramento? Plus Peter Bateman is out of country? I wouldn't do it, myself. It might be legitimate, but I'd need a lot more pictures of the typical rust areas to even consider it. I'd assume the sale is "you get what you see". There's a lot unseen, for that money. https://www.buffalosalesllc.com/why.php

Are there bubbles actually in the reservoirs? There are other things that can make bubbly noises. The windshield washer reservoir is there. Not clear where exactly the noise is coming from. Might be coming from inside the booster if the booster has brake fluid inside. Vacuum releasing through a fluid puddle. That is bad, the booster is supposed to hold vacuum for a while.

Here you go. Mike showed this link a while ago. You can watch it coming. Blue is cold, purple is colder. https://www.windy.com/-Temperature-temp?temp,40.814,-98.350,4

I missed this part. Site was right, but I think he meant master cylinder. The missing fluid is probably in your brake booster. Your master cylinder has failed, maybe due to cold or just high miles or both. Easy fix. You should take the booster off too, and drain it and clean it out before the brake fluid ruins the diaphragm. Don't drip the fluid on your paint it will leave a stain.

Is it cold there? I'll bet the seals in the MC hardened up and shrank in the cold. There are two seals to create pressure and and a seal at the back to keep the fluid in the MC. Your pressure seals have failed, I think. A heat gun might bring them back, who knows. That would be a sign. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.63839000000007&lon=-92.11855999999995#.YCm31WhKiM8

Might be that the splines alone (inside the yoke) were enough to stop the serious vibration but the seal movement outside was too much. Thanks to the guys that found that Omega bushing. I had never actually seen it. They call it out specifically for the 71C but it looks like Nissan used the same dimensions all the way back to 71B, at least. So, the last questions is - what the heck happened to the original bushing?

I think that hole on the bottom is probably correct, not sure though. Might not matter. Maybe the top lets fluid in? Maybe the bottom lets it out? p.s. I did a Google and found this, which makes sense. Your 4 speed probably doesn't have an "oil supply" groove so it probably doesn't matter. https://www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/t5-tailshaft-bushing-oil-hole-orientation.327137/ How about vibration? One reason I didn't think it was the bushing was because of the vibration that you'd expect if it was so loose that the seal couldn't seal. But, apparently I was wrong. That's a lot of movement, you'd expect the yoke to be rattling around in there when the car is moving.

Did you try it on the slip yoke first? Just curious. Looks like a good bushing, meant for the job. Did you put the hole at the bottom? And, could you post a picture with the bushing in? Then we'll have before and after for any future visitors. Even better, if you have the time and patience, a another video showing proper yoke/bushing play. Good luck.