Zed Head

When I first saw the title I thought it said "Total dog butt". Maybe it should have.

Did you get the hoses connected right and the wiring too? The pumps will run backward and if you connect the pump to the return line it will be blocked by the FPR. Your best option right now is to get a decent meter, volts and ohms, and take some measurements. Confirm that you have power to the injectors for one thing. If the injectors don't have power they won't do anything. Kind of seems like you don't have injector power. You probably have a bad connection at the EFI fusible link by the battery. You can do one thing at a time and think between each one or you can spend an hour and take a whole bunch of measurements. Write down the numbers, whatever you decide. "Good" is not as good a real number. Good luck.

What kind of fuel pump did you use? You need a high pressure fuel injection pump and high pressure hose. If you're going to make it run right you'll need these. The 1980 book covers all the way back to 1975.

Tempting, but I don't know much about carbs. They need tuning.

It's ready to hit the road though. That's something. And it's got poly... Seller's description Selling my 72 240z Runs and drives but the carbs will need to be retuned. Has l24 with twin 32/36 Weber's 240sx rear disk conversion New clutch hydraulics Will need floor pans 10 gal fuel cell temporarily installed Comes with full poly bushing kit. As well as a spare l28 motor Rear apron was cut out due to excessive rust

I don't know. It's been modified.

What does this mean, above? Is the ignition system stock? And is the rest of the car complete? There are several things that need to be connected to get the injectors to open and close. It might be that the EFI system doesn't have power and it's starting from the cold start valve fuel. You'll need a multimeter or test light to make much progress. Check the EFI system fusible links.

Grannyknot posed 43 minutes ago. Must be back up. Last post before his was 18 hours before then.

Sounds like you can't see it if you're logged in, and you can only log out by deleting cookies. So it's a read-only forum now. Super Dan is online now. He must know something is up.

So I just cleared all of my "browsing data" and now it works. Anyone know what that means? Why would I get an internal server error because of old browsing history? Weird stuff. Probably something to do with being signed in all the time. Clearing history signed me out. Thanks for checking.

Thanks. I wonder if it's one of those security things. Beyond my level, I'm not an IT guy.

If anyone wants to have some fun maybe they could click on a Hybridz link and see if it works. I tried all of the first ones on the Google page and got all 500's. https://www.google.com/search?q=hybridz&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=hybridz&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i60l2j69i65l2j69i60.1710j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Are you on a phone? It's still down for me. Maybe you could send a message to an admin or Super Dan. Windows 10 with Chrome browser. Not sure why that would give a 500 server error. Maybe it's sporadic.

You should upload your videos to youtube. Easier access for everyone. Some videos don't play on windows machines after downloading, for some reason.

Anybody know Super Dan, the site owner? Some might think Hybridz is competition but I think of it as complementary. https://forums.hybridz.org/ Tried to use an old site support email address and got an error message. perfora.net rejected your message to the following email addresses: HybridZ (support@hybridz.org) Your message couldn't be delivered. It appears that the email address you sent your message to wasn't found at the destination domain, or the recipient's mailbox is unavailable. The email address might be misspelled or it might not exist. Try to fix the problem by doing one or more of the following:

Did you find out what was binding the shafts? Since you have one that is worth little you can experiment on it to figure out how to remove parts without damaging them. Kind of like being in the wrecking yard.

Just heard these on the radio. David Byrne has a Youtube channel. I need to explore...

The red/orange 73 is an odd one. I thought that getting in to the 20's for a 73 with a few mods, that the owner didn't know a whole bunch about, would be good money. But apparently he had the reserve set to over 30. Maybe hasn't been looking at the 73 prices. https://bringatrailer.com/search/1973+240z/

Well, if you wanted to take advantage of a bunch of somewhat bored (COVID captive) people who can generate a bunch of ideas you might just describe more about what you're working on. It's one reason the site is popular, from both sides of the situation. We like a puzzle. Just seems like a "not the bushing' situation. There are other things that leak back there that seem like the slip yoke seal but aren't. You still haven't said if the slip yoke is loose in the bushing.

Is the yoke loose in the bushing? Maybe your tail housing is cracked. Good luck. Not really seeing a new bushing as a solution to your problem if the yoke isn't loose in the bushing. What does this actually mean?

Still not clear why you're looking at the bushing, for an oil leak. There are actually grooves in some bushings to let oil pass by. It's the seal that contains the oil. You can replace the seal without removing the transmission.

Since it says 1977-up, and the 4 speed part shows discontinued, I'm going to guess that there is something different about them. I'm pretty sure though that somewhere in past posts people have found a substitute bushing. Worth some searching. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bushg-extrr~32132-78000.html

My first thought was yes, but the parts website doesn't show a bushing for the 5 speed. Not sure why. A leak would be the seal though, probably. If the bushing is bad the slip yoke will have excessive play. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/4-speed/from-sep-71 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/5-speed

Another thought - you could take a portable drill and a piece of hose and use it to spin the input shaft at high speed. Listen for noises and look for wobbles. After I bought a mystery 5 speed I hooked it up to a spare engine I had that I had running on a stand (Harbor Freight dolly). I put some used fluid in that I had kept and ran it through the gears on the running engine. It sounded like a blender and the fluid came out looking like silver metal flake paint. A drill motor and a piece of tube might get similar results. With no drivetrain load on the output shaft you can shift gears without worry. Even with no fluid you can still get an idea of the quality of the parts, if the seller will let you do it.

You can remove the drain and fill plugs and maybe some of the switches and look inside at some of the synchros and gears. But I found that even a transmission that was extremely damaged, with broken shift forks and synchros and bearings, would still shift through the gears and the shafts would turn. Kind of like you found with the one you're replacing. It's difficult to tell until you get it apart. You have to use your ability to judge character I think, and the various internet tools. I don't know how the FB marketplace works. Does the seller have a visible profile? A way to see opinions of them and past sales? I bought a whole non-running 1978 280Z in the past, just for the transmission. Probably the best buy I ever made. The engine was good and it ended up in my car too, along with other parts.