Zed Head

This is what harmony01 was known for in the past. His cars never meet reserve. I wonder if he just uses eBay for advertising, then sells the cars through private communication.

Check out some of the BAT listings to see what buyers want to see, and the way they want to see it. Your pictures need work, it makes a difference. Clean it up, make a driving video to show that everything works. You might get over 15,000 if it shines up and runs well. You're pretty far away so if you have shipping options available that will help. Basically, make it easy for a buyer to decide to buy. Here's one - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-162/

This just popped up on a video. Usually I click "Skip" but I didn't. Somebody "filling the void" I guess. Bubble gum isn't healthy. 57+ plus muscles. I never knew about the +. https://jawzrsize.com/

That's crazy. Is there a fence to be whitewashed? Or is it today's guy? Denver, CO. Somebody needs to go look. Maybe it's still there. (I actually missed the date in gundee's post. Where is that thing?).

You need the plate under the AAR if you want things to work well. The coolant heats up the plate which keeps the AAR closed when the engine warms up. It's kind of contorted and a pain to get the lines in there and sealed well but it serves a useful function. The aluminum T-stat housing should be easy to tap. Probably don't even need to drill, just run the tap.

Something seems off center, looks like uneven wear. If you measure the thickness of the bearing pad it should match the thickness of the other forks. Is the fork tight on the shaft? I looked around for pictures and found an interesting transmission parts site. Might be handy. https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-fs5w71a-fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h/

He has a 77 so that is actually the fitting for the coolant line to the plate under the AAR. Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52 Probably hard to find. Many of the threads on the engine are BSPT. Might be able to get an adapter and use an NPT elbow. Or people have had success just jamming NPT in to BSPT holes. Risky. https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/thread-type~bspt/ Browse...https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings Or - @Terrapin Z

Considering all you could look at it this way - standard rings will be slightly larger, better, than the worn-out rings you are replacing, just because they aren't worn. So you'll get a small amount of improved sealing. With a hone the new rings will seat and seal to the new bore but with a slightly too large gap. So, you'll be basically back to where you started, but with new bearings and whatever other work you're planning. Probably valve guides and seals and other things. So, overall, you'll probably be less smoky but it will run as well or better than it did when you took it apart. When the time comes in a couple of years, if you really have only put a few thousand miles on it, you can take it apart and do the bores and pistons and just leave the work you already did. Because the old work will still be almost new. Basically, just hone it and use new standard size rings, then finish the job in a few years. Or, odds are good, it will just run so well that you don't get back to it for ten years. Trying to fit oversize rings probably won't really buy you much, is what I'm saying. Although it would be interesting to try. I don't think you said if you ever heard the engine run or used it. How bad was it?

Just dig in, mentally, to what the nut does, and what the purpose of the crimp over the flat section is for. It seems mysterious but it's actually very crude. It's actually a last safeguard that should never be needed. You could probably torque the nut and never crimp it and 99.99% of the time it would not come loose. Also, consider the chemistry of the thread lockers, which weren't available in the 70's. If you buy a new differential today it will come with thread locker on the bolt for the locking pin. No special crimps or lock washers even though if the lock pin comes loose, it's disaster for the differential. I'd do what zKars says above and add some red Loctite for extra peace of mind. It's just a nut on the end of a shaft. https://nylok.com/

I entered my old land line number from years back and the addresses of several of the various places I've lived and worked at, before I even got the number, came up, and a bunch of my relatives and some strangers as associated with my name. It was weird but kind of useful. I saved the data because I'd forgotten the addresses. And that's just the publicly available stuff. I bet if one of the intelligence agencies wanted to they could have all of your old numbers and acquaintances and tell you about stuff you did that you don't even remember.

Wonder Women? There's more than one? Sweet. Ford has its own group-think thing going on. Their brand loyalty has people spending big money even when they know the model they're buying has major problems. Pretty incredible. (No offense). Not Motorcraft? It must be crap! One of the first things I ended up doing after I got mine (used, but looked great and priced right) was to buy a code reader/scanner so I could figure out my Service Engine Soon light that came on within a month. Then I tore the top off the engine and fixed the known issues that Ford had let drag on until the model was replaced. It's a nice rig now but they're high upkeep at times. The Ford forums have have whole separate sub-forums about how to read codes because they pop up so often.

A bunch of old Z car hits come up also. https://www.google.com/search?q=310+850+8980&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=310+850+8980&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Normally I would not post this because what people have done in the past is not really my business. Maybe they had their reasons. But I did a Google on the phone number and a surprising amount of stuff came up. Never seen so much info in one place from one phone number. Not sure what it means, but anyone with a Google machine can find it, it's the first hit. Many past names for the same guy. Why? https://clustrmaps.com/person/Caine-a350ki He said call me with questions so it's not like he's hiding it. The car is located in Beverly Hills... Inspections are welcome and encouraged... serious buyers can call me at 310 850 8980 but no tire kickers please. I'm open to interesting trades (in accordance with ebay guidelines) but no projects or junk please. VIDEO AVAILABLE!

Tomorrow night at 6:01 pm! Exciting!

I made some comments in the past about harmony01. I seem like a d*** but they seemed appropriate at the time. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=harmony01&quick=1

It's the harmony01 guys again. Suspiciously close to URGELIS in Rancho Cucamonga. That is a low number though. I wonder if it's in the Registry of America. Says he prefers period look, but drives it daily with mags. ? I actually use my cars and drive them daily... I prefer a period look and feel to 100 point concours cars.

You said the gap was too big when using new unmodified standard rings. Honing won't make the gap smaller, it will make it bigger. I was replying to Diseazd's comment. He said to just hone and use standard parts, but you already tried standard parts. That was your original point.

On your original point about forums, I found on the Ford forum I frequent that there are many good people on the forum. Smart and helpful. But the A-holes are lurking, waiting to jump in and get their perverse thrills by abusing new members. Usually it's just a few guys that have banded together in their weakness. If you just maintain a good attitude the good ones will usually come out to help and the A-holes will fade away. Many forums are like this, I think. Trolls are everywhere, it's a disease.

Once you close your mind to the possibility that some of the people you're seeing might be different, better, then you end up treating the ones you want like the ones you don't want. It's a vicious cycle. Polarization. You, for example, could be classified as ex-military with certain views living in a certain state in the southeast. Therefore, based on your logic, you're just like the guys we're seeing videos of now, storming the Capitol. Because people with your same profile were there, a known fact. Some arrested. Who knows, maybe you were there. Based on the facts, and your proposed logic, it fits. Per your own method. On the other hand, many of us probably know cops and ex-military and people from certain areas of the country, that would never have participated in that. Even though they fit the physical profile. So, in the end, profiling doesn't do anything but give a person a false sense of security, of thinking that they know something that they don't. Better to put the effort in to learning about each person or group of people you're dealing with, than making an assumption that has high odds of being wrong.

I browse the Ford F150 forums and see misfire topics all the time. Often it's not the coil but something else like injectors. The common test is to swap coils with another cylinder and see if the problems follows the coil. I don't think that you can generalize "people" to regions, or any other characteristic. Bad people are everywhere, sometimes you just don't see them. Or you might just be hanging out in certain areas, like airports or hotels, and mischaracterizing a whole part of the world based on a small sample. Generalizing generally doesn't work, you can't classify humans like that, by where they live or what they look like. Everyone is different.

The Z's are back, the Z's are back! 73 with some modifications. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-149/

You could create a new account in order to contact someone. They can delete it afterward.

He said the new rings, unmodified, have a gap that is too big. Honing won't make the bore smaller, and you can't file a ring end to make it smaller. Cut it twice and it's still too small applies here also. I wonder if the pistons aren't already one size over. There are no piston measurements here. You kind of just need to get all of the measurements and figure out the best combination. For just a few thousand miles a year, you could probably just hone and put the big gap rings in and be fine.

The first thing that I'd do is to stop mixing your measurement systems together. Pick metric or pick standard but pick just one. What size are the pistons? Rings, pistons and cylinders all need to work together. I'd try one of the oversize rings, fit it, and see how it fits the bore. If your bore is ovalized (you never answered that question) then it's probably equally bad to use an oversize ring gapped down as a "proper" ring with a big gap. They're both round rings in oval bores. Most of the blowby will come from the poor seal in general, not the larger gap. You might just fit one oversize ring, stick it in the bore and shine a bright light around the edges. If it's a poor fit you'll see light shining through.

What do you mean by "out of tolerance"? End gap? And do you really mean .003 millimeters? That is a tenth of a thousandth of an inch. .0001 inches. Is the bore oval'ed? That's the other measurement you want to take. If you're only planning a few thousand miles on it you might be best to buy rings that will seat quickly. Some ring materials would probably still be breaking in by the time you rebuild it again. And I think that there are tricks to get a quick break-in, at the expense of longevity. A rough hone finish, for example. Not an expert, others know more.