Zed Head

The 78 ignition module had the same functionality as the ZX ignition module. So your swap was not really an upgrade, it was just a swap, assuming that both worked as they were supposed to. heyitsrama's thread kind of speaks for itself I think. I've never used a ZX distributor myself. But the aftermarket ZX modules are known to be of questionable quality. People get bad ones new. You can find posts about them around the internet.

How is a 72 quarter different from a 76 quarter? I don't know. Might be that it was in a rear ender sandwich in the past. Whatever it was, it's just another parts car now.

It does have the 6400 RPM redline tachometer also. A 280Z part. It's a messy car.

The VIN of the BAT listing 76 I showed is lower than the VIN of the blue car in question. So the blue eBay Beverly Hills turd should have been created after the nice BAT 76. Therefore, a 76 or later. Are we all looking at the same numbers and posts (things get squirrelly here at times)? Edit - actually I see that the VINs don't seem to accumulate over the years. Looks like they reset each year? Why? So, the VIN is not actually helpful in determining year. But the rest of the car looks 76 to me. Who moves the fusible link terminals over with an engine swap? And the AC solenoids (magnet valves). Here's a 72 - HLS3051114 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-152/

Just had a similar problem in a separate thread. Maybe there's a batch of bad ZX modules out there. The 78 ignition module is about identical to the ZX module design. Current limiting, etc. The tach shouldn't see a difference.

If you gave them the P90 head code they would have sent you an L28 EFI gasket. If you told them you needed 240Z headers, maybe not. Maybe you have order details, or maybe they do. Good to know. I don't know, really, which mismatch might cause a leak. Anyway, you should never have intake vacuum leaks. So, you should focus on that first, because if you tune around it, you'll have to start over when you fix the leak later.

Should have posted the link to your high idle thread. Don't remember the details. It sounds like you might have a gasket mismatch problem. The P90 has injector notches. You didn't mention if you used an L24 intake gasket or an L28 gasket. Found it -

I don't know if this means anything and I'm not insinuating (purposefully, although it is there) but it's weird that the ZCD kit is so inexpensive. The OReilly parts would be 2x13 and 2x15 for a full set of National bearings. 26 + 30 = $56. ZCD's full set is just $39 for Timken bearings. Something seems off. Don't know, just saying... p.s. and I didn't include the seals. About $7 for the inexpensive ones. $63 total for an OReilly kit.

This 76 is HLS30298225. I'll bet they don't have a title for it. Dragged from a field, pressure-washed, pictures taken and posted. Send us the money. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-38/

I didn't even read the words and numbers I just looked at the pictures and thought it was a 76 280Z with 240Z bumpers. The engine bay looks just like mine. And it has two fusible link covers, I think 75 only had one. But it does have the more primitive center console. Mine had/has the padded upholstered hinged lid. The Beverly Hills guys don't put much effort in to getting their cars sold. They should know what people want to know but they don't show it.

How did you break a "bearing" (what actually broke?) by torqueing down the spindle nut? You should be able to put everything together by hand, almost to the point of even setting the nut if you have strong fingers. No need for force, except for removing the races from the hub. To grannyknot's point, if you use the outer race that came with the bearing you could just put it back the way you took it apart, on the inboard side, then use the new matched bearing and race on the nut side. But you don't want to use a different outer race with a new bearing. Sometimes parts just don't fit. I had to chisel a new pilot bushing out of my crankshaft after I got it halfway inserted. It was just too big. The replacement fit just fine.

It's a hand press fit but it's still a very close fit. A gouge might be enough to screw things up. Might be that you just have a + size spindle and/or a - tolerance bearing. A little work with a scotch brite pad might be enough to size it down. Good luck. Welcome, as others have said, to old car world.

Any part numbers on the bearings? Should be stamped on the edge of the race. Those bearings are very common. No need to go to a specialty shop like ZCD. OReilly Auto is fine, then you can swap them out easily if they don't fit, even if they're greasy. Too late now, I just mention that to make you feel bad. 💀 That bearing inner race should slide easily down to its seat at the base of that spindle (proper word for it). Clean the grease off and look for a burr or lip on the spindle. The bearing really should be just a hand press fit, no hammering/tapping or force required at all. Nobody checks the fit before they install the bearings and the seal but we all should. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a2/2552840/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=3 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a6/2552881/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=4

The unloved middle child. Buy it and drive it. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-40/

Lots of blue on this one. LS modified with other power handling accessories. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-146/

Another orange. Tastefully refurbished, I'd say, but not to a completely stock look. Has a leather covered dash. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-156/

Muchas gracias, amigo.

The blue car was on eBay, from Beverly Hills Garage. How did you get the BaT notification if you didn't submit a car? It's early (kind of) here and I'm low on caffeine. No comprende.

You want to see if the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance canister has a hole in it. You can suck on the hose nipple to be sure. Also, it's not a bad idea to remove the cap and make sure the vacuum advance is free to move. They tend to get rusted bearings and lock up.

You're selling a car?

The gauges are adjustable for better race viewing. I see exposed gauges as becoming a thing in the future. The glove box door survived, which is nice.

Looks like originality has value. The silver 72 might have been over-modded, maybe. $21,500. But reserve was met. Seems in better shape than the orange one, easily. Maybe the louvers and the silver paint dropped the price by about $5000. Warning for any future sellers. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-151/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-12-03

Beverly Hills doesn't have the cachet that it used to. The car is race ready though, excess weight stripped, and with the special racing left only alignment on the rear wheel.. And it has the desirable non-EGR intake manifold. And a DieHard battery. p.s. They have other Z's in their showroom.

Surface rust? I was thinking the same but if you look most of it is really not too deep. I didn't see any holes. Kind of looks like somebody drove it over some salty snow then parked it in a dry garage.

Also found this when I was on the Google looking for it. Looks like a Porsche part. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uro-94461011500?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WGn2JbMHtgZeIxJ2mDW_1SMobTVCpFkRXxAYkDysbUBzwn9rJhaY_0aAlEtEALw_wcB